First time user of oil that is tru

kramersteen

PowerMetalRaph
I got the big bottle of this **** cost me $40 smackerdoo;s. I have watched a few videos already so i am professional at it. :smash:. I have used other hand rubbed drying oil products so i imagine this will be similar.

Few questions and or give me any tips you have.

Can i use normal automotive cutting compound, polish and wax with it?

Will it be alright to wet sand back with kerosene?

Is it like varnish?

Has it got a shelf life?

I wanna go for a high gloss finish for my first go :laugh:
 
Re: First time user of oil that is tru

Australian Dollars? Pfffttt...
Just joshin'..I uase Birchwood Casey Tru oil..which is the best American gunstock oil.. Lots of light to medium coats.You have to wok quick or the stiuff gums up fast as you wipe it on/off.. with a curing time of 24 hours between coats in normal not too humid weather..you can finish it with gunstock wax too! ..Very organic. or you can get the sheen with the other stuff-forgot what its called. I think.
 
Re: First time user of oil that is tru

Australian Dollars? Pfffttt...
Just joshin'..I uase Birchwood Casey Tru oil..which is the best American gunstock oil.. Lots of light to medium coats.You have to wok quick or the stiuff gums up fast as you wipe it on/off.. with a curing time of 24 hours between coats in normal not too humid weather..you can finish it with gunstock wax too! ..Very organic. or you can get the sheen with the other stuff-forgot what its called. I think.

That advice was ok but not great.

Anyone used it on a maple fretboard?
 
Re: First time user of oil that is tru

Kick, Punch, Kick, Chop, Ear twist and Eye poke.

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Re: First time user of oil that is tru

I've used it on a few all-maple necks at this point and I absolutely love it!

I apply the TruOil by hand (literally) using slightly more generous coats than the rag and quick wipe-on/wipe-off method some others use, but I'm going for a smooth semi-gloss finish rather than a satin. With minimal effort, it comes out great. Here's the first neck I did last summer:

20150417_155525_resized.jpg




I simply dab some TruOil on my finger tip and apply it by rubbing lengthwise down the neck, moving right and left and proceeding down the neck a small section at a time. As the oil rubs in, I dab more on my finger and keep going. The finish lays down consistently and builds up well in just a few coats. I knock it down once or twice with sandpaper about 2/3 of the way through and then apply the last couple coats the same way (put TruOil on finger, rub onto neck). The neck above has around 5-6 coats.

For the fretboard, I just take my time, rub the layers in with my fingers like I do on the back and use paper towels to wipe up any excess and use folded edges of the paper towel to keep the layers from building too much along the sides of the frets.

So far, my method has yielded a slick, durable and natural feeling semi-gloss finish with zero polishing/buffing and no wax! I've really been impressed.

I have thought about trying the aerosol spray TruOil for the fingerboard on my next one, since others have had good luck laying down nice, even coats with it. I would still use the rub-on method for the back, though, as I can control the application and get the finish I like much more quickly.
 
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Re: First time user of oil that is tru

Raph, i gotta say that in my experience, this is one product that doesn't work out so well using the traditional automotive finishing processes and materials that you and i and many others usually use.

Almost everyone reckoned to use steel wool, not abrasive papers. Of course i tried abrasive papers and discovered why most use steel wool. The TruOil is one of those finishes that will leave 'witness lines' if you use sandpaper and break through the layers. That then leads to darker and lighter patches as the oils is not completely clear.

Plenty of thin coats are preferable to a few thick ones.

And be warned, this finish does wear, so i'm not sure it's ideal for maple fretboards in the long-term. It would be difficult getting a good 'touch-up' finish later when the original coating starts to break through, you'd probably then need to remove all the old finish first otherwise the 'restored' version would probably look blotchy.

The good thing is it's easy to work with, so if you mess up, it's not too hard (usually) to clean it all off and start again ... but that's okay for a body or neck, gonna be less easy on a fretboard.

Experiment on some wood scraps to see how various finishing products and processes may or may not work for you with the TruOil.
 
Re: First time user of oil that is tru

I've always wondered about your use of kerosene as a lubricant for sanding. I am concerned that it would act too much as a solvent and strip the finish, though maybe it only softens it a little and that is the point. Could you please clarify it for me?
 
Re: First time user of oil that is tru

I've always wondered about your use of kerosene as a lubricant for sanding. I am concerned that it would act too much as a solvent and strip the finish, though maybe it only softens it a little and that is the point. Could you please clarify it for me?

I dont know hey. My old man does it and he called it oiling back. Works great on a automotive finish. He has maybe 50 years experience so i jsut take his word for it..
 
Re: First time user of oil that is tru

I've always wondered about your use of kerosene as a lubricant for sanding. I am concerned that it would act too much as a solvent and strip the finish, though maybe it only softens it a little and that is the point. Could you please clarify it for me?

I'd venture a guess that kerosene's function is just lube/cleaning agent for the wet sanding process. The very last thing I would want when doing that is the finish dissolving into a gooey mess. As far as I know, polyester, urethane and nitrocellulose finishes should not be harmed by kerosene.
 
Re: First time user of oil that is tru

What about a polomer!? New Finish. I Would Really like to know if I'm damaging my axes by applying New FINISH to them!!
 
Re: First time user of oil that is tru

Have you ever used tung oil, or possibly more specifically, formulated tung oil like Formby's? I'd treat it like that.
 
Re: First time user of oil that is tru

I got the big bottle of this **** cost me $40 smackerdoo;s. I have watched a few videos already so i am professional at it. :smash:. I have used other hand rubbed drying oil products so i imagine this will be similar.

Few questions and or give me any tips you have.

Can i use normal automotive cutting compound, polish and wax with it?

Will it be alright to wet sand back with kerosene?

Is it like varnish?

Has it got a shelf life?

I wanna go for a high gloss finish for my first go :laugh:

I don't know if you can use the typical polishing methods, as I haven't tried it yet. You can actually use Tru-oil to do the wet sanding. It is very much like a varnish. And it does have a shelf life.. not sure of the typical amount of time.. but it is greatly lengthened by only poking a small hole in the foil top with a pencil or something, covering it with tape after use, and storing it upside down so it skims over the bottom side of the bottle. That's all I really know bro.. still learning as I go.
 
Re: First time user of oil that is tru

As far as I remember, tru oil is polymerised tung oil... I'm using tung oil at the moment and it seems like an OK finish. It's a bit soft.
The more layers you build up, the glossier it gets. My only problem is that I'm struggling with streaking. The cloths I'm using aren't the best.
I've used ordinary burnishing compound on it and got a nice gloss with no ill effects. I'll take a few pics of my build later and show you what I'm talking about.
 
Re: First time user of oil that is tru

As far as I remember, tru oil is polymerised tung oil... I'm using tung oil at the moment and it seems like an OK finish. It's a bit soft.
The more layers you build up, the glossier it gets. My only problem is that I'm struggling with streaking. The cloths I'm using aren't the best.
I've used ordinary burnishing compound on it and got a nice gloss with no ill effects. I'll take a few pics of my build later and show you what I'm talking about.
I think BC Tru Oil is a different type of oil, although it is polymerized. Formby's is a polymerized tung oil, which I have used, and doesn't seem to build up the same sort of smoothness and gloss.
 
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