floyd blade ,does it need ti be replaced?
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RockinProf
New member
Re: floyd blade ,does it need ti be replaced?
I'm not going to claim to be an authority on the matter; however, I think I'd file and sand it a bit smother possibly to 400 grit there's no ridges that get hung up, the same with your posts and then lube it with lithium grease. My thought is that if you can reduce any surface that can create a snag you reduce the potential of a tuning issue and or strange movement. With a little TLC this bridge looks good to me. Don't forget your springs though, I've seen more that one person go to the extremes on the bridge knife edges and posts to later and that they had a spring that lost uniformity and was the issue. For the $5 new springs will cost just replace them anyways for the sake of your sanity. Lithium grease where the springs insert in to the block and attach to the tree claw as well.
Those are my two cents
I'm not going to claim to be an authority on the matter; however, I think I'd file and sand it a bit smother possibly to 400 grit there's no ridges that get hung up, the same with your posts and then lube it with lithium grease. My thought is that if you can reduce any surface that can create a snag you reduce the potential of a tuning issue and or strange movement. With a little TLC this bridge looks good to me. Don't forget your springs though, I've seen more that one person go to the extremes on the bridge knife edges and posts to later and that they had a spring that lost uniformity and was the issue. For the $5 new springs will cost just replace them anyways for the sake of your sanity. Lithium grease where the springs insert in to the block and attach to the tree claw as well.
Those are my two cents
Re: floyd blade ,does it need ti be replaced?
hi @RockinProf
do you think the blades are not bad (are still good? ) , but you would use 400 grit
about the lithium greese , should i use on the blades ? and lithium greese on the block
i have only a good silicone grease but i don't guess it 's the right greese
the 3 springs are new , are medium , i can find soft , medium and hard , i use 3 medium paralel springs (not at V)
don't know if they are good quality (i mean the springs)
thanks
hi @RockinProf
do you think the blades are not bad (are still good? ) , but you would use 400 grit
about the lithium greese , should i use on the blades ? and lithium greese on the block
i have only a good silicone grease but i don't guess it 's the right greese
the 3 springs are new , are medium , i can find soft , medium and hard , i use 3 medium paralel springs (not at V)
don't know if they are good quality (i mean the springs)
thanks
RockinProf
New member
Re: floyd blade ,does it need ti be replaced?
Hey,
From what I'm seeing the blades just look a touch worn. I'd either start with a file or sand paper rolled in to a cylinder, around 220 grit, then move up to 320 then 400, just try to keep on the same plain as the whole blade - don't roll it forward or back, get the whole surface in every motion with your file/sand paper. Work with it until it's smooth and the blade actually feels a bit sharp to the touch. This is just like sharpening your kitchen knives - only handy tools aren't available so you need to improvise with files and or sandpaper.
I personally use the geese on:
A) The sharp edge of the knife edge - put a little blob on the edge as you place the tremolo assembly, that way it ends up on both sides of the edge for total lubrication
B) On the spring ends as you insert them in to the trem block. This reduces strange noises if you're aggressive with the trem and prevents tuning issues as these's snag protection with a lubricant
C) On the trem claw points, I place a blob in the claw points before I apply the springs so there's immersion
Silicone = Bad on anything guitar or wood in general. Lots of potential finish issues. 3 in 1 makes a good and inexpensive lithium grease that's at just about any hardware store. Good to have on hand generally..
I personally just get the all parts springs that have no rating. Floyd Rose has varying strengths but I've never had an issue with generics so I cannot really comment on if they're better of just hype. I simply try to keep to the same manufacturer and get a new set at the same time.... so the springs have the same manufacturer tolerances and new at the same time so there's no wear differences.
I recommend and go with 10-46 on guitars with an Original Floyd Rose or equivalent. I then use three springs with the centre - middle to middle and the out sides in the V where the claw side is arresting the spring in the 1st and 5th place. On the trem block side use the 2nd and 4th holes
Hope that helps
Hey,
From what I'm seeing the blades just look a touch worn. I'd either start with a file or sand paper rolled in to a cylinder, around 220 grit, then move up to 320 then 400, just try to keep on the same plain as the whole blade - don't roll it forward or back, get the whole surface in every motion with your file/sand paper. Work with it until it's smooth and the blade actually feels a bit sharp to the touch. This is just like sharpening your kitchen knives - only handy tools aren't available so you need to improvise with files and or sandpaper.
I personally use the geese on:
A) The sharp edge of the knife edge - put a little blob on the edge as you place the tremolo assembly, that way it ends up on both sides of the edge for total lubrication
B) On the spring ends as you insert them in to the trem block. This reduces strange noises if you're aggressive with the trem and prevents tuning issues as these's snag protection with a lubricant
C) On the trem claw points, I place a blob in the claw points before I apply the springs so there's immersion
Silicone = Bad on anything guitar or wood in general. Lots of potential finish issues. 3 in 1 makes a good and inexpensive lithium grease that's at just about any hardware store. Good to have on hand generally..
I personally just get the all parts springs that have no rating. Floyd Rose has varying strengths but I've never had an issue with generics so I cannot really comment on if they're better of just hype. I simply try to keep to the same manufacturer and get a new set at the same time.... so the springs have the same manufacturer tolerances and new at the same time so there's no wear differences.
I recommend and go with 10-46 on guitars with an Original Floyd Rose or equivalent. I then use three springs with the centre - middle to middle and the out sides in the V where the claw side is arresting the spring in the 1st and 5th place. On the trem block side use the 2nd and 4th holes
Hope that helps
Re: floyd blade ,does it need ti be replaced?
hi
the guitar does stay in tune ,but it lost the tuning when i use the tremolo/whammy bar
when i push down the whammy bar down , the tune goes in # ,when i push up the tuning goes in (♭)
that's weird , that happen after i have changed springs (no brands), in the past i had 42-10 with gotoh spring
even are new these springs , could be them?
thanks
hi
the guitar does stay in tune ,but it lost the tuning when i use the tremolo/whammy bar
when i push down the whammy bar down , the tune goes in # ,when i push up the tuning goes in (♭)
that's weird , that happen after i have changed springs (no brands), in the past i had 42-10 with gotoh spring
even are new these springs , could be them?
thanks
GuitarStv
Sock Market Trader
Re: floyd blade ,does it need ti be replaced?
That sounds like a problem with the the edge not being sharp enough, or some kind of binding in the vibrato system.
That sounds like a problem with the the edge not being sharp enough, or some kind of binding in the vibrato system.
Re: floyd blade ,does it need ti be replaced?
hi
i remember when i bought the guitar the bridge was not parelel but up tilt
about String Retainer , i have tighten a lot the 2 screws and the String Retainer is very low
another thing , if i pull up or down the bar and i leave quickly the whammy/tremolo the guitar is in tune , if i pull down or up the whammy/tremolo bar and i release gently the guitar doesn't keep the tune
does it make sense to you? for me it's very weird
thanks
hi
i remember when i bought the guitar the bridge was not parelel but up tilt
about String Retainer , i have tighten a lot the 2 screws and the String Retainer is very low
another thing , if i pull up or down the bar and i leave quickly the whammy/tremolo the guitar is in tune , if i pull down or up the whammy/tremolo bar and i release gently the guitar doesn't keep the tune
does it make sense to you? for me it's very weird
thanks
Re: floyd blade ,does it need ti be replaced?
what is it a little blob ?
i have googled but i got strange results
in the hardware store i found big greese cans
do you use no brand springs?
thanks
Hi
what is it a little blob ?
i have googled but i got strange results
hi , i don't think is inexpensive , i guess i can get at bicycle store , can't I?
in the hardware store i found big greese cans
do you use no brand springs?
thanks
Re: floyd blade ,does it need ti be replaced?
can you give me some advises?
thanks
hi
can you give me some advises?
thanks
RockinProf
New member
Re: floyd blade ,does it need ti be replaced?
I agree with ICTGoober, you could benefit from a good tech giving the whole thing a once over. Could even be the neck (lose rod), nut not being secure...
Could certainly be dull knife edges. As I mentioned before, using something pretty fine (no more corse than 220)you could try sharpening the edges... use your finger to test the edge.
Don't forget your posts though. I've seen many a two point Fender or Floyd have some issues when the posts that go in to the body are scored and allow for the knife edges to catch in odd places.
The slow release issue vs. fast kind of makes me think something is getting hung up.
By a blob, think of a small pea sized portion of lubricant. For lithium grease, might be a regional thing with different stores having different stock but I get mine at Lowes for $4-$5 for a pretty small volume. Try Amazon as an add on for the next order you make.
Massive quantities of profanity when things don't work right always works for me too.
I agree with ICTGoober, you could benefit from a good tech giving the whole thing a once over. Could even be the neck (lose rod), nut not being secure...
Could certainly be dull knife edges. As I mentioned before, using something pretty fine (no more corse than 220)you could try sharpening the edges... use your finger to test the edge.
Don't forget your posts though. I've seen many a two point Fender or Floyd have some issues when the posts that go in to the body are scored and allow for the knife edges to catch in odd places.
The slow release issue vs. fast kind of makes me think something is getting hung up.
By a blob, think of a small pea sized portion of lubricant. For lithium grease, might be a regional thing with different stores having different stock but I get mine at Lowes for $4-$5 for a pretty small volume. Try Amazon as an add on for the next order you make.
Massive quantities of profanity when things don't work right always works for me too.
ICTGoober
Well-known member
Re: floyd blade ,does it need ti be replaced?
I just did. Consult an experienced and competent guitar tech who does NOT work at Guitar Center. Ask around, or use the net to find out what you have in the area. I can't help you much without seeing the guitar on my bench, sorry.
I just did. Consult an experienced and competent guitar tech who does NOT work at Guitar Center. Ask around, or use the net to find out what you have in the area. I can't help you much without seeing the guitar on my bench, sorry.
devastone
New member
Re: floyd blade ,does it need ti be replaced?
Lots of things can cause a Floyd to not return to pitch, loose neck, loose locking nut, divots in the posts, and of course dull knife edges, but those really don't look that bad, wouldn't hurt to smooth them up a little, but you don't want knife blades. As far as lube goes, try chapstick, <$2 at any convenience store, just turn the post, put some on with a toothpick, and turn the post back. Apparently Mike Manning (Satch's tech) swears by it.
Lots of things can cause a Floyd to not return to pitch, loose neck, loose locking nut, divots in the posts, and of course dull knife edges, but those really don't look that bad, wouldn't hurt to smooth them up a little, but you don't want knife blades. As far as lube goes, try chapstick, <$2 at any convenience store, just turn the post, put some on with a toothpick, and turn the post back. Apparently Mike Manning (Satch's tech) swears by it.
Gtrjunior
New member
Re: floyd blade ,does it need ti be replaced?
I’m no expert but to me those edges look good.
I wonder if the posts in the body are either worn with ridges in them or are they leaning towards the headstock at all?
Check that the nut is properly tightened too. Just snug the bolts up...don’t tighten too much.
I’m no expert but to me those edges look good.
I wonder if the posts in the body are either worn with ridges in them or are they leaning towards the headstock at all?
Check that the nut is properly tightened too. Just snug the bolts up...don’t tighten too much.
Masta' C
Well-known member
Re: floyd blade ,does it need ti be replaced?
As others have said, those knife edges really aren't bad at all. Touching them up would appear to be completely optional at this point and may not make much of a difference.
I'd be more interested in the spots where those edges are making contact...often, players will adjust the pivot posts under full tension and that can sometimes create issues and excess wear.
Other things that can cause a little tuning instability are a worn locking nut/string clamps, a poor setup or a loose neck-to-body joint (if it's a bolt-on guitar). Good things to check. Also, putting a little chapstick or lubricant at the contact points for the knife edges is not a bad idea to help prevent any of the very minor binding or friction that may be occurring.
As others have said, those knife edges really aren't bad at all. Touching them up would appear to be completely optional at this point and may not make much of a difference.
I'd be more interested in the spots where those edges are making contact...often, players will adjust the pivot posts under full tension and that can sometimes create issues and excess wear.
Other things that can cause a little tuning instability are a worn locking nut/string clamps, a poor setup or a loose neck-to-body joint (if it's a bolt-on guitar). Good things to check. Also, putting a little chapstick or lubricant at the contact points for the knife edges is not a bad idea to help prevent any of the very minor binding or friction that may be occurring.
ICTGoober
Well-known member
Re: floyd blade ,does it need ti be replaced?
That's been my choice since the 80's. Low melting point, easily applied with a toothpick, easily removed with a cloth or napkin. Cherry flavor works best, and smells nice. I use it to lube nut slots, and any friction point on the guitar. Also - handy in the wintertime.
That's been my choice since the 80's. Low melting point, easily applied with a toothpick, easily removed with a cloth or napkin. Cherry flavor works best, and smells nice. I use it to lube nut slots, and any friction point on the guitar. Also - handy in the wintertime.
