Floyd Rose vs. Kahler

Re: Floyd Rose vs. Kahler

Is this true or more internet BS? I have a couple steelers and both say licensed under floyd rose patents. If they had a license why did they get sued?

Because Kahler only licensed a few particular patents to Kahler. Kahler used another feature they didn't have the license for.
 
Re: Floyd Rose vs. Kahler

After perusing a post on Floyd Rose original vs. OFR models, it has set me to wondering: Why is Floyd Rose so much more regarded than Kahler?

It goes all the way back to the very late 70's.

3 words:

Edward. Van. Halen.

Bumble_Bee_Front_-_Ed2.jpg

evhfloyd.jpg

...and it went from there.

Today, the Floyd has become so ubiquitous and so entrenched that tone-deaf bobbleheads everywhere yell "slap a Floyd on it!".
 
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Re: Floyd Rose vs. Kahler

I think the most widely available Kahler-equipped guitar around me is the Jerry Cantrell Rampage. I wish the Kahler was more available.
 
Re: Floyd Rose vs. Kahler

I'm reading this topic yet another time and prepare myself emotionally to dump that Floyd Rose II I have on my Mexican Strat and go for a Kahler...
Now, which one to chose in order to mantain or at least keep into the direction of a "Strat" tone? So far the 2315 steel on brass catches my eye by the written describtion... Any comments?
 
Re: Floyd Rose vs. Kahler

I'm reading this topic yet another time and prepare myself emotionally to dump that Floyd Rose II I have on my Mexican Strat and go for a Kahler...
Now, which one to chose in order to mantain or at least keep into the direction of a "Strat" tone? So far the 2315 steel on brass catches my eye by the written describtion... Any comments?

I have also the Floyd Rose II, and it has been great. The guitar it is on, has very long sustain, and sounds great. I would never want to replace this, and I didn't even when the intonation screw holes' threads on the plate were stripped. I preferred to invest into buying a V-coil M3 fixing kit, than throwing away some 100+ EUR for a new floyd. Why do you need to change yours?
PS
Lachezar, interesting name bro, is it christian? related to Lazar?
 
Re: Floyd Rose vs. Kahler

I have also the Floyd Rose II, and it has been great. The guitar it is on, has very long sustain, and sounds great. I would never want to replace this, and I didn't even when the intonation screw holes' threads on the plate were stripped. I preferred to invest into buying a V-coil M3 fixing kit, than throwing away some 100+ EUR for a new floyd. Why do you need to change yours?
PS
Lachezar, interesting name bro, is it christian? related to Lazar?

My FL-II doesen't return into tune after use (it and the guitar are 20years old). I've sanded and polished the studs and the knife edges, tidgten the screws holding the block, then changed them with new, changed the springs, the arm and still the same S**t... Wrote in this forum and in the Fender's and followed some of the advices... nthing better.

I'm happy with its sound - tember and sustain, it's just that it doesen't return into place after use. And because I have not come along with a reasonable explanation (age alone does not count) of why is this happening I'd rather change the system instead of buying a new FL and coming to the same problem after some years.

(my name is not christian, quaite the oposite: pagаn!)
 
Re: Floyd Rose vs. Kahler

I've had both the Kahler "Les Paul style" trem (2310 I think it was? The one Gibson used on those '84 Vs and Explorers and some Les Pauls), and several variations of the Floyd Rose, from both double and single-locking (bridge only ala Vinnie Moore) Kramer-era OFR to the Fender-era FRO to the newer/recent Korean FRT as well as licensed Takeuchi Lo-TRS and all the Jackson variants made by Schaller and Takeuchi.

I never owned a Kahler Spyder or Steeler, but did play an original 80s Vandenberg Peavey that had one or the other on it.

The stud-mount/LP-style Kahler bridge is (or at least was when I had it) a quality unit. I actually still have it in a box somewhere. It was my first "quality" trem back in '87.
It had the behind-the-nut locking assembly.

Typically the Kahler vs Floyd argument must be clarified due to the various Kahler models: Steeler, Spyder, and the 2310 (or whatever it was - I'll call it the studmount).

Very often in these discussions, you will have people who have never seen or used a studmount and/or only used the Steeler say "a Kahler does everything a Floyd can do", which for that particular model is correct. However, when someone says "Kahler trem" I think only of the studmount, since I've never owned the other versions.
As an aside, you also get the one guy who thinks the only bridge Kahler made is the non-trem fixed assembly found on the Jackson Mustaine V, and they tout the lack of needing to remove wood, completely ignoring the fact that it's not a trem and thus cannot be mentioned in a "vs Floyd" argument.

Now, while the studmount was a solid unit, weighing a little more than an OFR, as well as being heavily-laden with brass, there are inherent issues that a double-locking Floyd Rose does not have.

First, the behind-the-nut locking assembly: half of the tuning stability issues stem from the nut, especially on low-end models with plastic nuts cut by the average undertrained laborer, and especially in the days before graphite nuts were available. This type of locking assembly is useless without a zero-friction nut, whether it's made that way or you employ one or more of the various workarounds.

The Floyd Rose locking nut does not require as much effort, so the Floyd nut wins. Some people prefer the feel of the Kahler bridge, and have been known to employ a Floyd nut with a Kahler bridge to get the best of both worlds.

Second, the studmounted Kahler can only dive so far before the ball ends pop out of the pockets. They are a PITA to pop back into place, since you have to go farther down with it, which often resulted in more strings popping out of the cups. There are various fixes for this, including soldering the ball end to the cup to lock it.

The Floyd Rose does not require as much effort, so the Floyd bridge wins.

At one point, someone made Kahler-specific "big balls" strings that had larger ball ends to help them stay in the cups during deep bends. Notice you can't find those anymore.
D'Adarrio made Floyd-specific string sets, where instead of a ball end, there was a brass tab the string end was fed through. The concept was that you drop that into the saddle and cranks the block until the tab compressed around the string. Usually, though, the saddle cracked before it got that far.
Readily-available and no-tricks-required strings: Floyd wins.


The studmount did have a lot of control points that could be tweaked with various set-screws buried in the body, though, and you could easily adjust everything from spring tension to individual string height.
As long as you had the tools.

With the Kahler, you needed several hex wrenches: one for the nut, height posts (unless it's an old skool woodscrew pivot posts), saddle clamps, roller cam, and spring tension. Not to mention the Philips-head screwdriver for the intonation locking clamp on the saddles.

For an OFR, you only need two wrenches and a screwdriver for the spring claw. If it's the woodscrew posts and not cut for a hex wrench, you'll need a flathead.
Again, the Floyd wins on sheer ease of upkeep.

Changing pickups on a Floyded guitar is as easy as popping off the springs and wiggling it out of the cavity. To change pickups on a studmounted Kahler guitar, the strings have to come off.
Once more, the OFR wins.

The Kahler studmount's tension could be adjusted with one wrench, and could go from super-sensitive to fight-for-it. With a Floyd, you need to loosen the strings, add or remove a spring, and adjust the claw screws. You can set it so double-stop bends move the bridge by a micro-tone.
The Kahler wins that round, assuming you can keep track of the wrenches.

The Kahler studmount tension could be easily set so one could mimic slide playing, especially on Zeppelin's version of You Shook Me, or Freebird, and the cam system made for greater control with the bar.
I've been trying to get believable slide effects out of a Floyd since 1988, and it's just too rubbery-sounding, and very difficult to control.
The Kahler wins that round as well.

Warble/Flutter effects, pullups, and Steve Vai-style whammy tricks: The OFR wins hands-down, since the risk of breaking a string with a back-bent Kahler studmount is very high.

For those who know the true differences, favoring a Floyd is not "drinking the Kool-Aid". For those who possess the skill to work a Kahler studmount, it's more like Apple/iOs vs Microsoft/Android phones.
However, as with those two, your technical skill level is important. Making a Floyd do its thing is simple. Making a Kahler studmount do Floyd tricks takes skill.


So for the sheer number of features and ease of use, the Floyd wins over the Kahler studmount trem.
 
Re: Floyd Rose vs. Kahler

I've had both the Kahler "Les Paul style" trem (2310 I think it was? The one Gibson used on those '84 Vs and Explorers and some Les Pauls), and several variations of the Floyd Rose, from both double and single-locking (bridge only ala Vinnie Moore) Kramer-era OFR to the Fender-era FRO to the newer/recent Korean FRT as well as licensed Takeuchi Lo-TRS and all the Jackson variants made by Schaller and Takeuchi.

I never owned a Kahler Spyder or Steeler, but did play an original 80s Vandenberg Peavey that had one or the other on it.

The stud-mount/LP-style Kahler bridge is (or at least was when I had it) a quality unit. I actually still have it in a box somewhere. It was my first "quality" trem back in '87.
It had the behind-the-nut locking assembly.

Typically the Kahler vs Floyd argument must be clarified due to the various Kahler models: Steeler, Spyder, and the 2310 (or whatever it was - I'll call it the studmount).

Very often in these discussions, you will have people who have never seen or used a studmount and/or only used the Steeler say "a Kahler does everything a Floyd can do", which for that particular model is correct. However, when someone says "Kahler trem" I think only of the studmount, since I've never owned the other versions.
As an aside, you also get the one guy who thinks the only bridge Kahler made is the non-trem fixed assembly found on the Jackson Mustaine V, and they tout the lack of needing to remove wood, completely ignoring the fact that it's not a trem and thus cannot be mentioned in a "vs Floyd" argument.

Now, while the studmount was a solid unit, weighing a little more than an OFR, as well as being heavily-laden with brass, there are inherent issues that a double-locking Floyd Rose does not have.

First, the behind-the-nut locking assembly: half of the tuning stability issues stem from the nut, especially on low-end models with plastic nuts cut by the average undertrained laborer, and especially in the days before graphite nuts were available. This type of locking assembly is useless without a zero-friction nut, whether it's made that way or you employ one or more of the various workarounds.

The Floyd Rose locking nut does not require as much effort, so the Floyd nut wins. Some people prefer the feel of the Kahler bridge, and have been known to employ a Floyd nut with a Kahler bridge to get the best of both worlds.

Second, the studmounted Kahler can only dive so far before the ball ends pop out of the pockets. They are a PITA to pop back into place, since you have to go farther down with it, which often resulted in more strings popping out of the cups. There are various fixes for this, including soldering the ball end to the cup to lock it.

The Floyd Rose does not require as much effort, so the Floyd bridge wins.

At one point, someone made Kahler-specific "big balls" strings that had larger ball ends to help them stay in the cups during deep bends. Notice you can't find those anymore.
D'Adarrio made Floyd-specific string sets, where instead of a ball end, there was a brass tab the string end was fed through. The concept was that you drop that into the saddle and cranks the block until the tab compressed around the string. Usually, though, the saddle cracked before it got that far.
Readily-available and no-tricks-required strings: Floyd wins.


The studmount did have a lot of control points that could be tweaked with various set-screws buried in the body, though, and you could easily adjust everything from spring tension to individual string height.
As long as you had the tools.

With the Kahler, you needed several hex wrenches: one for the nut, height posts (unless it's an old skool woodscrew pivot posts), saddle clamps, roller cam, and spring tension. Not to mention the Philips-head screwdriver for the intonation locking clamp on the saddles.

For an OFR, you only need two wrenches and a screwdriver for the spring claw. If it's the woodscrew posts and not cut for a hex wrench, you'll need a flathead.
Again, the Floyd wins on sheer ease of upkeep.

Changing pickups on a Floyded guitar is as easy as popping off the springs and wiggling it out of the cavity. To change pickups on a studmounted Kahler guitar, the strings have to come off.
Once more, the OFR wins.

The Kahler studmount's tension could be adjusted with one wrench, and could go from super-sensitive to fight-for-it. With a Floyd, you need to loosen the strings, add or remove a spring, and adjust the claw screws. You can set it so double-stop bends move the bridge by a micro-tone.
The Kahler wins that round, assuming you can keep track of the wrenches.

The Kahler studmount tension could be easily set so one could mimic slide playing, especially on Zeppelin's version of You Shook Me, or Freebird, and the cam system made for greater control with the bar.
I've been trying to get believable slide effects out of a Floyd since 1988, and it's just too rubbery-sounding, and very difficult to control.
The Kahler wins that round as well.

Warble/Flutter effects, pullups, and Steve Vai-style whammy tricks: The OFR wins hands-down, since the risk of breaking a string with a back-bent Kahler studmount is very high.

For those who know the true differences, favoring a Floyd is not "drinking the Kool-Aid". For those who possess the skill to work a Kahler studmount, it's more like Apple/iOs vs Microsoft/Android phones.
However, as with those two, your technical skill level is important. Making a Floyd do its thing is simple. Making a Kahler studmount do Floyd tricks takes skill.


So for the sheer number of features and ease of use, the Floyd wins over the Kahler studmount trem.

Nothing to add besides: floyds sound better.

I've had a guitar with a Tune O matic. installed a kahler 2300. that thing sucked the life out of the guitar. I rerouted it for a floyd and voila, my tone was back. Not as good as before, but damned close.

That's my biggest reason to use high quality floyd rose trems (OFR, Gotoh, Schaller, etc).
 
Re: Floyd Rose vs. Kahler

I have a lot of trem guitars, Floyd, Kalher, Bigsby, Babicz and Hard Rocker Pro. The Floyd is the newest of the bunch. While all of them have totally different applications I find the Kahler to be the most accurate. I have gone as far as modding the Floyd to feel more like the Kahler. I like a bit of resistance in the tremelo, it allows me to bend to the prefered pitch more accurately. I found the Floyd to be too springy and sensitive. In a perfect world I love the Hard Rocker Pro followed by the Kahler. Those two trems allow me to dial into pitch the best.
 
Re: Floyd Rose vs. Kahler

I've played and had to set up both. I have never had a guitar tune and intonate as well as one with a well-setup Floyd bridge. I think that is the key. There are a lot of people who have no idea how to handle them. Sure they are a pain, but when they are setup, they absolutely nail everything you need them to do.

For Kahlers, they are easier to setup and adjust, but I didn't really experience the rock-solid stability with them. On the other hand, I didn't really like the action. That, however, is a personal thing.
 
Re: Floyd Rose vs. Kahler

For me, it is as simple as this.

I learned on a Floyd. That's what I'm comfortable with.

No herd mentality...no fear of anything...certainly no EVH. My first guitar was a Strat copy and my second and 3rd guitars were Ibanez with Edge Tremolos.

Had I been exposed to Kahlers early on...maybe things would be different.

I saw Kerry King interviewed and the guy asked him "why Kahler?" You know what he said?? "I learned on one."

It's that simple.
 
Re: Floyd Rose vs. Kahler

I've owned or played all of the Floyds DrNewcenstein mentioned as well as both flat mount and stud mount Kahlers. There has been a lot of good info in the thread, but I wanted to add my $0.02 here and there.

First, the behind-the-nut locking assembly: half of the tuning stability issues stem from the nut, especially on low-end models with plastic nuts cut by the average undertrained laborer, and especially in the days before graphite nuts were available. This type of locking assembly is useless without a zero-friction nut, whether it's made that way or you employ one or more of the various workarounds.

The Floyd Rose locking nut does not require as much effort, so the Floyd nut wins. Some people prefer the feel of the Kahler bridge, and have been known to employ a Floyd nut with a Kahler bridge to get the best of both worlds.
Absolutely agreed; the stock Kahler string lock sucks. I have a Kahler 2320 (brass on brass) on my Charvel Model 4 mutt that's currently set up with a graphite nut and locking tuners. The tuning stability is decent, but it still binds every now and then. I'm going to try a TUSQ XL nut first and just install a Floyd nut if that doesn't help.

Second, the studmounted Kahler can only dive so far before the ball ends pop out of the pockets. They are a PITA to pop back into place, since you have to go farther down with it, which often resulted in more strings popping out of the cups. There are various fixes for this, including soldering the ball end to the cup to lock it.
With my Model 4 the strings will be flopping loosely on the pickups before they're in danger of popping out of the 'pockets'. If the strings are popping out earlier the rollers are probably set too low, and tuning stability will probably suffer as well. OTOH soldering the ball ends of the strings is intended to prevent the wrap from breaking when doing pullbacks. It definitely works, but I usually end up changing strings before that becomes a problem.

So for the sheer number of features and ease of use, the Floyd wins over the Kahler studmount trem.
I don't know about features, but Floyds seem to be easier to get right. A Kahler is definitely more adjustable and there is lots of room for it to be close but not quite correct. I'd wager that a lot of the complaints about tuning stability stem from setups that are close but not quite right.

I saw Kerry King interviewed and the guy asked him "why Kahler?" You know what he said?? "I learned on one."
Can't say I've heard that before. The reason I heard the Slayer guys using is that a Kahler won't go out of tune with heavy palm-muting. Unlike a Floyd, you can press as hard as you want on a Kahler and the bridge won't move. Jerry Cantrell gave the same reason for preferring a Kahler.

Nothing to add besides: floyds sound better.
That's absolutely a matter of opinion. Floyds and Kahlers do not sound the same (though the Steel / Steel combo is somewhat close) and it isn't reasonable to expect that. That's why the rollers and cams are swappable, so that tone can be customized to some extent.

In addition to the EVH endorsement, I'm sure cost had something to do with Floyds being more popular. I don't know the exact numbers, but I've seen many sources claim that Kahlers were more expensive back in the 80s. Today a Kahler Hybrid (7XXX models) is more expensive than any Floyd except the FRX, while the Kahler Pro line (2XXX) is more expensive still.

As far as Kahler's disappearance in the 80s, I read an interview where Gary Kahler claimed that the brand suffered too much reputation damage from poorly performing imported knockoffs and decided to abandon the guitar bridge business. The company did not go bankrupt, but continued making OEM parts for the golf club market in addition to small custom orders of guitar bridges for various OEMs. They resumed large scale guitar bridge production in the early 2000s after seeing the price NOS Kahlers were fetching on Ebay.
 
Re: Floyd Rose vs. Kahler

I actually found the old Kahler on my dad's Charvel to be pretty dog-gone reliable as far as tuning is concerned. But the best guitar I own for tuning is a MIA Fender Strat (two point bridge, non-locking.) It is currently has a floating setup and stays in tune despite some tremolo usage (vibrato...technically ;) )

I really like the Kahler designs but I also like the Floyds. But I'm moving away from locking systems...I really like the Schaller 3801 bridge!
 
Re: Floyd Rose vs. Kahler

Between dystrust and Newc, there`s not much to add.... but there`s stilll some things.

Newc: The Peavey Vandenbergs came with Spyders and Kahler Nutlocks, which are functionally identical to a Floyd nut except that the hold-down bar is integrated into the nut imnstead of mounted half an inch back. Many like to overlook that Kahler made 3 different styles of lock: their standard locking nut which Newc described (a .999:1 copy of which was also used by Jackson on their own JT-6 trems, btw) the fliplock (tool-free version), and the Nutlock I just described.

The bridge Kahler was sued over was the Killer. KahlerUSA /APM licensed out all necessary patents for all of the other bridges they made, but decided to take a risk on that one. Floyd caught it, sued, and won, production was terminated, that`s why you almost never see actual Killer trems, just catalog photos, wheras spyders, Steelers, 25xx, and of course their own 22xx studmount and 23xx flatmounts can be seen on ebay, more or less frequently depending on the exact model. I saw a NOS/NIB Killer once on the bay in like 2003 or so, with a 4 digit price and 48 hours to go.

If you`re pulling the cam so far forward that the ball-ends pop out, you are massively overstretching the springs, which are now actually BENDING over the bottom end of the cam. If I turn a floyd bar towards the butt and drop it so far that the knife edges are no longer resting in the posts and the plate is perpendicular to the guitar`s top, thereby bending them over the edge of the rout, it`s the exact same result. That is simply said more abuse than the trem was ever designed to take, in both cases. Just be glad springs are cheap.

Properly set up Kahlers can flutter just as well as Floyds, just not with the heavy duty springs many preferred to use. With the standard springs, a Floyd actually feels sluggish in comparison.

A Floyd is a straightforward "set and Forget" system that, when properly maintained, gets set up exactly once and never again. But setting it up perfectly can be a very tedious task, because depending on how close the bridge radius is to the fretboard radiius you`lll be shimming saddles and reintonating and reshimming and reintonating until you think you`re going insane. with a kahler, on the other hand, you: set string spacing, lock, set individual string heights, set intonation, done. you may have to re-set some of these things at some point in the future, but you don`t have to take half the trem apart to do it.

On MAJOR advantage of the kahler, other than being absolutely impervious to palm mutes tossing you out of tune (unless your hands are made of plutonium), is that you can set spring tension, and thereby the amount of variability up or down AFTER the rest of the setup. Want to go down further? Tighten the allen screw, retune, done. Want more up-pull? Loosen it, retune, done. A Floyd does not have this capability, it is hardlocked in it`s travel by the angle the baseplate needs to follow the neck and the depth of the recess (if any).

And kahler bar tension is also a sweet design, an allen scerw right next to the screw in bar, everything from locked solid to dangling like a limp noodle is just an allen key twist away.

But all of that means a Kahler also has many more moving parts than a Floyd, so it requires much more maintenance in teh sense of cleaning, oiling the rollers, making sure the tension on teh bearings is right.... and of course the risk of any one of those screws moving over time with vibrations.

I personally like and use both, but they are entirely different beasts, albeit with a similar application, and should be regarded as such. I don`t complain to a panther why he doesn`t have a mane, just I don`t berate a lion for not being black. But both of them will take down that gazelle like nobody`s business, assuming they know what they`re doing. ;)
 
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Re: Floyd Rose vs. Kahler

Thank you all for the new enlightment in this old topic!
If I decide I can spare the money I'll go for a Kahler.
I have to figure for myself what are the advantages of 23XX to be so much more expensive than the 7XXX models apart from the choice of metal combinations.
Cheers!
 
Re: Floyd Rose vs. Kahler

Thank you all for the new enlightment in this old topic!
If I decide I can spare the money I'll go for a Kahler.
I have to figure for myself what are the advantages of 23XX to be so much more expensive than the 7XXX models apart from the choice of metal combinations.
Cheers!

There isn't one. The 2XXX series is largely hand made, while more of the work on a 7XXX series is done by CNC. The only other difference is being able to order any combination of saddles & rollers instead of brass / brass as you've noted. Keep in mind also that parts are interchangeable between the two so you could always buy a 7XXX and swap to steel/aluminum/etc cam & rollers.
 
Re: Floyd Rose vs. Kahler

I still like Floyds for the reason that I can pop a broken string back into its saddle...
 
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