getting rid of the pickguard

Re: getting rid of the pickguard

Best solution: Use router and countersink the entire pickuguard same level as the body. Not as easy, but would be really nice looking.

This sounds complicated, but probably the best solution if you're set on using that body.
 
Re: getting rid of the pickguard

plywood is multiple thin pieces of wood glued together like this:
View attachment 86426

veneer is a thin slice of wood(it can also be thick, but not thicker than 3mm or so). It doesn't have to be pretty. it's used on guitars because it's A LOT cheaper. that's why for example lower end chapman guitars have flame maple veneers instead of maple caps. Sometimes they just stick the veneer on the body, sometimes they take the body and glue a piece of maple on it and then the veneer to get the flame maple cap tone and looks, but cheaper.

a "cap" is a thicker piece of wood to give the body another tone. For instance, chapman has mahogony body guitars with maple caps (mahogany has a darker tone, and maple bright) to make the tone brighter.

sometimes you also see it on furniture for the same reason, it's cheaper.

veneer:
View attachment 86427

Ok. That explains it. I was speaking about plywood all the time then.

3 mm thick fine plywood doesn't really differ from your standard pickguard in any way, except that it's wood and much sturdier and stiffer. Would be perfect for this job.

Sorry to carry this on, but I'd like to know what GuitarDoc meant with using veneer? I mean it won't hold, unless you completely fill the cavity, or support it with plywood. Which would make the whole veneer pointless addition if your going to paint it over...
 
Re: getting rid of the pickguard

Sorry to carry this on, but I'd like to know what GuitarDoc meant with using veneer? I mean it won't hold, unless you completely fill the cavity, or support it with plywood. Which would make the whole veneer pointless addition if your going to paint it over...

I think he meant plywood with veneer. Like you said, veneer will not hold.
 
Re: getting rid of the pickguard

This sounds complicated, but probably the best solution if you're set on using that body.

What do you mean with countersinking the pickguard the same level as the body?

I thought of routing 5mm of the body and glueing a 5mm thick piece of plywood on top of the body. then route out the pickup cavities and drill the bridge post holes.

I don't think filling up the cavity will work, I think it will not be even at the end.

ANY OTHER IDEAS/SUGGESTIONS ARE WELCOME!!
 
Re: getting rid of the pickguard

Best solution: Use router and countersink the entire pickuguard same level as the body. Not as easy, but would be really nice looking.

One of those things that would make guitars with electronics mounted on big pickguards a lot more attractive. It's a shame more companies don't do it, though I imagine it would raise costs. Not to mention traditionalists would scream bloody murder.
 
Re: getting rid of the pickguard

One of those things that would make guitars with electronics mounted on big pickguards a lot more attractive. It's a shame more companies don't do it, though I imagine it would raise costs.

ohhh now i know what you mean, but then i would need to find a flat pickguard, there would be a gap between the body and the pickguard and there would be screws.

Could i just glue on a 3mm piece of plywood without routing? would my bridge sit too high?
 
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Re: getting rid of the pickguard

ohhh now i know what you mean, but then i would need to find a flat pickguard, there would be a gap between the body and the pickguard and there would be screws.

Could i just glue on a 3mm piece of plywood without routing? would my bridge sit too high?

I don't think there's nice way to do it with glue without countersink anyway. Plywood will sit higher that body. You can't have the plywood under the trem, Leaving the possible effects tone, etc.. out, it would mess up the action and string height.

But since it has back route, doing the countersink and gluing the plywood level with body is doable option. No gaps, and no screws needed.

I don't know what you mean by flat pickguard?
 
Re: getting rid of the pickguard

I don't think there's nice way to do it with glue without countersink anyway. Plywood will sit higher that body. You can't have the plywood under the trem, Leaving the possible effects tone, etc.. out, it would mess up the action and string height.

But since it has back route, doing the countersink and gluing the plywood level with body is doable option. No gaps, and no screws needed.

I don't know what you mean by flat pickguard?


maybe i could cut a piece in the plywood for the bridge to sit on the body, not on the plywood.
 
Re: getting rid of the pickguard

or i could go to my local diy shop and rent a planer, then plane a bit of the top of the body and glue the plywood on. I would have to think of a way to make the body contours neat though.
 
Re: getting rid of the pickguard

Do you plan to paint it in a garish 80s neon?

If so then fill in the pickup cavity with blocks of wood
Leave a spot for the new pickups
Fill in with wood putty or bondo or drywall compound
Sand smooth and paint

If you plan to surface mount the pickups
I mean not use rings
Then just make sure you have room for them and something solid for them to mount to

The guitar my not resonate as well with the patch in place

You could, alternatively, just repaint the body and pickguard the same color
 
Re: getting rid of the pickguard

Do you plan to paint it in a garish 80s neon?

If so then fill in the pickup cavity with blocks of wood
Leave a spot for the new pickups
Fill in with wood putty or bondo or drywall compound
Sand smooth and paint

If you plan to surface mount the pickups
I mean not use rings
Then just make sure you have room for them and something solid for them to mount to

The guitar my not resonate as well with the patch in place

You could, alternatively, just repaint the body and pickguard the same color


i'm planning to get a good finish with montana and motip spray cans, They seem to be really good.

-montana white primer (for the neon to come through better).
-montana strawberry
-montana flame blue
-motip fluorecent green
-motip clear varnish

If you guys know better paint, please tell me.
 
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Re: getting rid of the pickguard

What do you mean with countersinking the pickguard the same level as the body?

I thought of routing 5mm of the body and glueing a 5mm thick piece of plywood on top of the body. then route out the pickup cavities and drill the bridge post holes.

I don't think filling up the cavity will work, I think it will not be even at the end.

ANY OTHER IDEAS/SUGGESTIONS ARE WELCOME!!

Yeah, the guy in that video was doing a very quick and dirty job, not something I would recommend, but it shows what can be done.

The other suggestion was that you lower some of the wood around the cavity to create a lip/ step the depth of the wood you were going to use to cover the cavity, so it would rest on the lip and be flush with the body.

Another option might be to cut out some wood the exact shape of the cavity, then use some thick-ish dowel pillars, drill holes into the body and the underside of the new cavity cover to prevent slippage, glue the pillars into the body, then glue the cover on top, and sand it flush with the body?
 
Re: getting rid of the pickguard

Have you ever tried to paint over plywood endgrain??!!!

Try it first. Then tell me it's irrelevant.

Yes, actually I have. That's why it should be countersunk in level with body.

or i could go to my local diy shop and rent a planer, then plane a bit of the top of the body and glue the plywood on. I would have to think of a way to make the body contours neat though.

That'll be more difficult and much more likely to end up badly than the countersink option. And you can't use plywood then, because it'll chip on the edges.
 
Re: getting rid of the pickguard

Yes, actually I have. That's why it should be countersunk in level with body.


That'll be more difficult and much more likely to end up badly than the countersink option. And you can't use plywood then, because it'll chip on the edges.

Wait a minute...first you're suggesting to use plywood and just paint over the edges. Now you're saying that that's a bad option and it would be better to "countersink" plywood on the top so there won't be any exposed edges.

By "countersink" I assume you mean routing and inlaying the entire top? And you think that that would be more simple than covering the entire surface with a thin solid wood veneer?!!!

If that is correct then it is VERY clear that you have done neither of those procedures. I am a very accomplished guitar builder, but I would not ever attempt THAT!

It's time to get your feet back on the ground and get real, and offer some helpful/useful information to an obvious beginner at guitar modding.
 
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