Gibson 335 or Lucille?

Detroitblues

New member
I miss my semi-hollow body and I've been considering at Gibson ES335, but I'm seeing the Gibson BB King Lucilles on the used market for the same price.

So pros and cons of 335 vs the Lucille?


Lucille Specs:

Top Wood Species:Maple, Poplar, Maple

Pieces:3-Ply

Grade: Plain

Binding: 7-Ply (W-B-W-B-W-B-W)

Back Wood Species: Maple, Poplar, Maple

Pieces: 3-Ply

Density: Plain

Binding: 3-Ply (W-B-W)

Rims Species Wood: Maple, Poplar, Maple

Pieces: 3-Ply

Grade: Plain

Average Weight (body only): 2.3541 kg / 5.190 lbs

Carve: ES (Semi-Hollow without F-Holes)

Neck Wood Species: Maple

Pieces: 3

Truss Rod: Adjustable

Profile:Traditional C

Thickness at Fret 1: 20.828 mm / .820"

Thickness at Fret 12: 24.384 mm / .960"

Average Weight: 566.9905 gm / 1.250 lbs

Peg Head

Type: SP-2

Inlay: Mother of Pearl "Lucille"

Peg Head Binding: 5-Ply (W-B-W-B-W)

Logo: Mother of Pearl "Gibson"

Headstock Angle: 17 degrees

Tonal, Resonant, and/or Technical Effect:

The wood, construction, and headstock pitch all contribute greatly to the tone, aiding this guitar's exceptional sustain and depth, and yielding a resonance that can be felt right through the body

Nut
Style:White

Material: Corian

Width: 4.2697 cm / 1.681"

Slots:

E: 1.2268 mm / 0.0483 inches
A: 0.9601 mm / 0.0378 inches
D: 0.6934 mm / 0.0273 inches
G: 0.4534 mm / 0.01785 inches
B: 0.3467 mm / 0.01365 inches
e: 0.2667 mm / 0.0105 inches

Fingerboard

Wood Species: Richlite
Shade: Dark

Fingerboard Details

Radius: 30.48 cm / 12 "

Frets: 22

Nut/End of Board: 4.2697 cm / 1.681" @ nut, 5.6896 cm / 2.240" @ end of board

Scale: 62.865 cm / 24.75"

Binding: White

Side Dots (Color): Black

Fingerboard Inlays Style: Full Block

Material: Mother of Pearl


Gibson ES-335 Specs:

Top Wood Species: Maple, Poplar, Maple

Pieces: 3-Ply

Grade: Plain

Binding: Cream

Back Wood Species: Maple, Poplar, Maple

Pieces: 3-Ply

Density: Plain

Binding: Cream

Rims Species Wood: Maple, Poplar, Maple

Pieces: 3-Ply

Grade: Plain

Body Contour

Carve:ES (Semi-Hollow)

Neck Wood Species: Mahogany

Pieces: 1

Truss Rod: Historic

Profile: Slim Taper

Thickness at Fret 1: 20.32 mm / .800"

Thickness at Fret 12: 22.225 mm / .875"

Peg Head

Type: SP-1

Inlay: Mother of Pearl Crown

Logo: Mother of Pearl "Gibson"

Headstock Angle: 17 degrees

Nut

Style: White

Material: Bone

Width: 4.2545 cm / 1.675"

Slots:

E: 1.2268 mm / 0.0483 inches
A: 0.9601 mm / 0.0378 inches
D: 0.6934 mm / 0.0273 inches
G: 0.4534 mm / 0.01785 inches
B: 0.3467 mm / 0.01365 inches
e: 0.2667 mm / 0.0105 inches

Fingerboard Wood Species: Rosewood

Pieces: 1

Shade: Medium

Fingerboard Details

Radius: 30.48 cm / 12 "

Frets: 22

Nut/End of Board:

4.2545 cm / 1.675" @ nut, 5.6718 cm / 2.233" @ end of board

Scale: 62.865 cm / 24.75"

Binding: Cream

Side Dots (Color): Black

Fingerboard Inlays Style: Block

Material: Pearloid
 
Re: Gibson 335 or Lucille?

I almost bought a used Gibson Lucille back in January.

I decided against because;
1) The vendor was asking too much money
2) The guitar weighed as much as some Les Paul models
3) The general tone was excessively bright (all that maple, no mahogany)
4) The grain - visible through the transparent red finish - was very plain
5) I discovered a couple of video demonstrations for the PRS Hollowbody II.

For me, the question was never the money. It was always the lack of mahogany.


EDIT - Here is the thread that I started about it. https://forum.seymourduncan.com/sho...old-plating-Any-good&highlight=Gibson+Lucille Some helpful contributions to pore over.
 
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Re: Gibson 335 or Lucille?

I have a 335 studio. No f holes. Essentially same Body construction as a Lucille. It is more focused in the midrange than a typical 335 with F holes and not as open on the t9p end. Its also much easier to do pickup swaps with the backplate. And if you are using much gain it doesn't feedback/howl as much as 335 will in the general sense.

That said, I think typical 335s sound better, and look better than the lucille. I like ebony boards but that headstock kills it for me. Varitones are cool, but more trouble than they are worth. A wealth of tones are available in a standard 335 with a 3 way switch, 2v 2t, and 50s wiring with decent pickups.
 
Re: Gibson 335 or Lucille?

I think the big issues for me are:

The TP-6 Tailpiece. I prefer a standard stop tail, best of all would be a lightweight aluminum tailpiece, as on the LP/335 Historics. This can easily be changed out.

The Pickups: I like the 490r/490t better than the 490r/498t set, but not as much as the '57 Classics. I can live with the '57s in my 335s, not sure I could live with the 490s. This can be changed, but it's a PITA to do.

The Weight: The Lucilles I've played have been as heavy if not heavier than most of my Pauls. Not what I'm expecting out of a semi-hollow.

The Color: Black is the standard color for a Lucille, and that's a LOT of black. The guitars don't seem to age well. They get a lot of wear on them and look like an old dowdy Caddy--not the cool Caddy, either.

The Neck: Fatter and fuller than the 1960 Slim Taper of the 335, which I prefer. YMMV.

The Vari-Tone: Adds weight. Only marginally usable. Very little value to me. YMMV, but I'd say most players don't use it very much.

The Re-Sale Value: In my area, I would say that the new guitars don't hold their value as well as a 335. Used is definitely the way to go, if you can find one that is in good shape.


==============

Lucilles tend to be one of the more polarizing guitars I can think of--some guys hate them, some love them. Some guys like those big ol' Caddys with the tail-fins and the WSW tires. Not my thing. Could be yours. I like the idea of the extra bling and the little bit of high-tech in the TP-6, but in this guitar it's bling without the functionality. The 335's popularity is that it gives you everything you need, and nothing you don't.

If the features fit you and the guitar sounds good and speaks to you--go for it.


++++++++++++++

One last thing. If you are going for a NEW 335, I think this year they have changed the specs a little bit, and introduced some new models. I have two from 2006 and a 2012, and they are all really nice guitars. (I've actually been using them more than my Les Pauls lately, they seem to fit into this band a little better than the Pauls.) I've heard that some guys aren't happy with the cosmetic changes, but there seem to be improvements in other areas, so make sure you are buying what you want.

Good luck!

Bill
 
Re: Gibson 335 or Lucille?

I think the Lucille is the best semi-hollow Gibson has ever made...specs-wise, anyhow (there are probably well made and relatively poorly made ones out there). As a guitar to actually play out, I'd take one over any 335, any day. If I was a collector, I'd of course take a vintage 335 instead.

It gives you everything good about a thinline semihollow (tone, looks), while taking away a few serious disadvantages (howling, hard to work on the electronics), and giving you a few cool extra features (tailpiece, Vari-Tone). And they are the kind of features that are easy enough to ignore or modify, if you don't like them (set the Vari-Tone on bypass, and put a regular stop tailpiece on). IMO, the only bad things about the model are the Lucille inlay and the gold truss rod cover. I'd just deal with the inlay, and put a regular truss cover on.
 
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