gibson bridge question??

guppypuppy2

New member
have a question. On most of the Gibsons back In the day. (60's 70's 80's or even today) Those tune-o-matic bridges. abr-1 I guess. some of my questions are... Which way is more correct? The adjuster screws pointing back tword the tail or forward tword the headstock? whats the Pluses and minuses on the saddles knotched or unknotched? whats more correct on that on original guitars? And I see some guys have the saddles flipped back and forth. So that 45 on them is pointed back on some. forward on others. I know when you get tword the end of your adjustment sometimes you might have to flip them to get intonation set. But if possible is it better to have them all one way ? thanks ron
 
Re: gibson bridge question??

The string length adjustment screws on the ABR-1 should face the bridge pickup. The Nashville's bridge screws face the tailpiece.

Yes I notch my saddles. You will usually need to do this to get the radius of the strings to match the radius of the fretboard...one of the secrets of great action and playability.

The ABR-1 saddles may be reversed, usually on the lower strings, to provide a greater range of adjustment of the string length. No right or wrong...just whatever works the best.

Bill
 
Re: gibson bridge question??

I adjust my TOM saddles to give me the most travel room where I'll be most likely to need it to get the intonation right (been thru that many times, where I had to reverse a saddle in order to get a little more travel to get a string intonated).

Going from high E to low E, with 'F' meaning the saddle is pointed towards to the front (headstock), and 'B' pointed to the back (tailpiece):

- This is how they come from the factory: F F F B B B

- This is how I adjust them to for best intonation: F F B F B B

It's easier for strings to slip around on unnotched saddles.
 
Re: gibson bridge question??

before you buy one, check out the ones from gotoh - no retainer wire is great.
The tonepros bridges are also excellent. They have a wire, but it is not essential to the operation of the bridge
 
Re: gibson bridge question??

I know I've read this before, but I can never remember, what's the difference between the Nashville and ABR-1? And what difference does it make which side the screws are on, other than accessibility? I understand that Gibson originally put one type on one way and the other the other way, but wondered if there was actually a reason for it. If one type was not symmetrical maybe. I have an old SG (69 I think) that I replaced the bridge on in about 1978. The original had plastic saddles and the new one, a genuine Gibson part, has metal ones. As far as I know I've always had the screws on the tailpiece side, but they are very difficult to adjust. I assume they were on that side on the original but I don't remember. I have also had it apart for periods of time and may not have remembered which way it was on when I took it apart. All saddles have the straight side toward the neck and it appears to be symmetrical so it could be put on either way, although the saddles would probably need to be reversed.
 
Re: gibson bridge question??

wow. You guys have great responces!!!!. Im learning a lot!!!!!. I do like the idea of those tone masters with the locking allens. I just don't know if it really makes that big a difference?
 
Re: gibson bridge question??

I have several guitars with several different bridge designs. Personally I prefer the ABR bridge. It seems to ring better and adds to the sustain. The Nashville bridge is a good bridge but on dome guitars the string surest on the frame of the bridge behind the saddle(something to look for when buying a new guitar). This can kill some sustain and some guys like to "top wrap" the strings to eliminate strings breaking and some say the strings feel slinkier. IMHO the tone pro is an awesome bridge. Not quite as good as the ABR but a very close second. It adjusts very easy and can be locked in place as well
 
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