Grounding issues

rspst14

Tone Cat
Hey guys, how do you deal with pots that have a coating on the casing which prevents solder from sticking? I usually use CTS pots and have no trouble getting the solder to stick, but I'm wiring up my Strat project with Dimarzio push/pulls. They are very high quality pots compared to the usual cheap push/pulls, but I'm having a tough time getting the solder to stick when I attach my ground wires. I'm using a 40 watt iron and I've tried sanding the pots, but the solder is still balling up rather than flowing. I've had this problem with vintage MXR pots as well.

Is there a better way to solder ground wires that doesn't involve the back of a pot? Because I'm wiring it up with a piezo pickup system, I don't have a whole lot of free space on the back of the pickguard due to the circuit board and battery, so my options are limited. Would it be a bad idea to solder all my grounds to the shielding foil, then solder one ground wire from the shielding to a pot? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Ryan
 
Re: Grounding issues

rspst14 said:
Hey guys, how do you deal with pots that have a coating on the casing which prevents solder from sticking? I usually use CTS pots and have no trouble getting the solder to stick, but I'm wiring up my Strat project with Dimarzio push/pulls. They are very high quality pots compared to the usual cheap push/pulls, but I'm having a tough time getting the solder to stick when I attach my ground wires. I'm using a 40 watt iron and I've tried sanding the pots, but the solder is still balling up rather than flowing. I've had this problem with vintage MXR pots as well.
..Have you tried using some liquid flux on the pot?
 
Re: Grounding issues

I usually sand the pot very lightly in the area where I am going to solder. The solder will stick fine after that.
 
Re: Grounding issues

theodie said:
I usually sand the pot very lightly in the area where I am going to solder. The solder will stick fine after that.

That's usually what I do too, but it's just not sticking very well. I can chip off the solder from the pot if I scrape it with my fingernail, so it's not a real strong connection. Anyone know for sure if it's okay to solder all grounds to the shielding foil, then ground the foil on a pot or switch? I don't see why it wouldn't work, but I figure I'd better ask before I do it. Thanks.

Ryan
 
Re: Grounding issues

If there is something on your pot keeping solder from sticking to it, I am not sure how the ground will conduct if you solder everything to the foil. I take it you are using a 40W iron and your tip is in good condition? If you think you could get a good enough ground I would try it. I have had a few pots in the past give me problems but, I wish I remembered what I did to get them to work. Maybe it will come to me.
 
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Re: Grounding issues

Hmmm, What you could do is put a acetone on a rag and clean the top of the pots. Acetone will take everything off. Do not get it around any finished areas or plastic!!!!!!!!! It will really wreak havoc!!!
 
Re: Grounding issues

Yeah, I'm using a 40 watt iron. The pot casings have almost a greenish-gold tint to them, and even after sanding, the solder is not flowing very well. If I were to solder all my grounds to the shielding foil, then solder a wire from the shielding to the ground on the output jack, wouldn't that work just as well as soldering everything to a pot? When I did the shielding, I was careful to check the resistance in many different places to make sure the overlapping pieces all had a good connection. I also used a drop of solder to connect separate pieces, even though the foil is conductive on both sides.

Ryan
 
Re: Grounding issues

well, melt a dap of solder on the pot then heat it again and spread it out ALOT and it will stick fine. the thing it with those strat pots you have to wait till the solder dries al long time. I use acid core solder and it takes about a day to fully stick. i dont know why but if i put the slightest pressure on it right after i solder it, it pops right off.... just spread it out and let it dry it will work
 
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Re: Grounding issues

Acetone would work, as will naphta (while being more finish friendly). I just grind the backs of the pots with my Dremel until I hit bare metal. it roughs up the surface and makes really good contact after I do that. :burnout:
 
Re: Grounding issues

Ryan, A ground lug spur will do you better anchored into the foil, you know those funky looking lock washer/teardropped looking things ... yeah those.
I think that coating is just an anodized finish made to retard oxidation or some such other crap. Mine usually stick fine, but if it really gives you trouble you can A) use one of those ring terminals around the pot shaft bushing, if the little set pin gets in your way, just break it off with a pair of alligator nosed vise grips, or similar. B) Drill a small hole in the end of the tab that lays over the end of the switch part (that's the part I assume was put there for the ground connection, but to this day wonder why they didn't drill a hole to make it a solder lug), that will normally set the wire. C) Anyplace you can connect ground is fine, however if you are not using a metal knob (ala barrel or dome) and if the cavity is shielded, grounding the pot body becomes a non-issue ... same with switch bodies, although bare toggles normally need to be grounded, or they can cause noise. Another way to cheat, is to strip enough insulation from the end of the wire to wrap around that lug tip about 1.5 times, and then solder it in place with the wire running down the back of the switch. There is certainly nothing wrong with doing a bit of grinding and then wipe it clean with an evaporative solvent, let dry well, and then solder.
They are a bit harder to deal with, so it's not your imagination, it's just kinda getting a feel for that particular alloy or finish.
If that's an anodized finish grinding will help, but I doubt acetone will (I don't have to tell you how dangerously flammable and toxic that stuff is do I?
Let dry well in well ventilated area ... it has a VERY LOW Flash point! ... And isn't really good to breathe either. I also don't have to tell you never ever use acid core solder in electrical work either do I?).
As far as your idea goes, there are a few strats for example that employ the bastardized version of star grounding (I'm not ragging on the gentleman that created it, it's just not quite star grounding in a purist over picky sense) that's floating around ... well they have the string ground hooked to the cavity shield (via a body lug/ground spur), and that contacts the pickguard shield, that contacts the ring connector around the volume pot's shaft bushing. So the shields just lay against each other, and it works fine ... as long as there is good electrical contact, and more surface area equals less resistance, and that means more conductance. As long as there is conductance, you got a complete circuit.
 
Re: Grounding issues

If you are mounting your pots and switch directly to the shielding foil, there is no reason to solder a ground wire to the backshell of the pot. It is a redundant ground path and can cause ground loop interference (especially if your solder job is poor / resistive).

Put a star washer around the pot shaft an put your soldering iron away.
 
Re: Grounding issues

Chaos is right about the pot being grounded by contact with the shielding foil, provided the foil itself is grounded properly.

If you've shielded your control cavity, you should have a couple of tabs coming up over the edge so that they contact the foil on the back of the pickguard. Then you can just solder a ground wire to the shielding in the cavity, or use a ring connector and a very short, thick wood screw.

I use a star ground like GuitarNuts explains by putting a ring terminal on either end of a short 1-1/2" wire. One ring terminal goes around a pot shaft and gets pressed up against the pickguard shielding. Then I solder all the other ground wires to the second ring terminal.

Hope this helps,

Chip
 
Re: Grounding issues

Chaos It is a redundant ground path and can cause ground loop interference (especially if your solder job is poor / resistive). P[/QUOTE said:
Although I agree with the first part of what you said, I have never understood why people think that multiple ground paths inside a completely shielded cavity can somehow contribute to a ground loop (when that's not actually what a ground loop is to begin with), and pick up interference.
... Ground lines inside shields ... The star washer route does simplify installation a bit though.
 
Re: Grounding issues

The purpose of a ground is to provide a current return path. Multiple grounds that do not have the same conductance (i.e. bad solder joint, corrosion) can have a difference of potential between them.

ground loop: In an electrical system, an unwanted current that flows in a conductor connecting two points that are nominally at the same potential

Although there is little chance that the difference between grounds in a guitar control cavity will cause interference, there is no reason to add something that has the ‘potential’ for creating problems, adds to the ‘clutter’ of an already crowded control cavity, and increases the work (and frustration) of someone who is having trouble soldering a potentiometer backshell.

Optimally, an R/F shielded control cavity would be isolated from all components connected to the signal ground but this is impractical since many grounded components are mounted outside of the R/F shield.

Bottom line… there is no reason to clean, grind, drill or solder a pot if it is already grounded.
 
Re: Grounding issues

Chaos said:
The purpose of a ground is to provide a current return path. Multiple grounds.................

ground loop: In an electrical system, an unwanted current that flows in a conductor connecting two points that are nominally at the same potential

Yes, I'm well aware of the definitions, however in this case we are talking about one source, and not multiple sources as in recording or PA work.
As the ground is literally connected to one source, and the return lines (barrowing from AC power terminology) are all from the *same* source, unlike multiple pieces of equipment with their ground sides coupled into each other.
Since it's all from the same source (call it point of reference if you wish), any paths of differing resistances would be summed in parallel ... And the lowest resistance would therefore predominate and render the other paths null and void ... completing the connection as though the others did not exist.
Also, any resistance would not be of a high enough impedance to be attractive to RFI/EMI by itself (translation, if the rest of the circuit doesn't get contaminated with it, it won't by itself).
Star grounding is very useful in PA and in guitar racks, however in guitar it has no real application as far as the wiring in the instrument itself ... why?
Again, you are dealing with one source, and one ground potential only ...
That is not what happens in separate electrical mains (well it's supposed to happen that way), or in some cases separate pieces of gear.

Although there is little chance that the difference between grounds in a guitar control cavity will cause interference, there is no reason to add something ..............

Well, this I agreed with, however I still thought I throw in other options for HB users without shielded cavities, metal knobs, and what not ... where you would have to ground the pot or switch casing (and I did include the ring terminal idea, but if you don't have one and want to get it working ... solder time). The *potential* is so far out odd wise it really doesn't become a practical concern, however again, I agree with streamlining things ... look if it works for you great.

Optimally, an R/F shielded control cavity would be isolated from all components connected to the signal ground but this is impractical since many grounded components are mounted outside of the R/F shield.

Yes, ideally it would be earth ground rather than chassis, or audio common, of course here it is audio common ... connections to the other two (from that point) are dependent at and in the connecting equipment. Still, something inside a shield, that's connected to that shield, when that shield is grounded (we can only *assume* that the shield does in fact go to ground at the amp input) has no chance what so ever of carrying any voltage as it will be sent to ground via the lowest resistance route in a multipathed single sourced array.

Bottom line… there is no reason to clean, grind, drill or solder a pot if it is already grounded.

Well, this I agreed with to begin with, and I stated that the whole star grounding issue does makes some things easier, however for reasons just explained that whole ground loop thing doesn't hold water in this light.
Some people say their strats are quieter after doing so, okay, better soldering job/conections or the exact nature of the whole star ground thing?
Probably better soldering connections and better shielding, either way good for them. And I think that Ryan understood that I was trying to give him and others some options (as there are times that you have to solder the pot casingand a ring terminal might just get in the way), as well as an answer to his main question.
 
Re: Grounding issues

1.) Every component can be viewed as a separate piece of equipment.
2.) The lowest resistive path does not make all other paths ‘null and void’. It makes one path ‘hot’ in relation to the other.
3.) Quote: “any resistance would not be of a high enough impedance to be attractive to RFI/EMI by itself”. I am not sure what you meant by that. Perhaps I missed something when I was trained in electronic countermeasures / frequency jamming…or maybe I was sleeping when they taught us how to reduce noise in MRI and Ultrasound school…
4.) I have not advocated star grounding topology in any of my comments.

We could both argue ‘how many angels will fit on the head of a pin’ but I generally try to avoid pedantic arguments. It just ‘scares’ off those that want a simple answer, so… I will repeat my first comment: “If you are mounting your pots and switch directly to the shielding foil, there is no reason to solder a ground wire to the backshell of the pot”.
 
Re: Grounding issues

Chaos said:
1.) Every component can be viewed as a separate piece of equipment.
2.) The lowest resistive path does not make all other paths ‘null and void’. It makes one path ‘hot’ in relation to the other.
3.) Quote: “any resistance would not be of a high enough impedance to be attractive to RFI/EMI by itself”. I am not sure what you meant by that. Perhaps I missed something when I was trained in electronic countermeasures / frequency jamming…or maybe I was sleeping when they taught us how to reduce noise in MRI and Ultrasound school…
4.) I have not advocated star grounding topology in any of my comments.

We could both argue ‘how many angels will fit on the head of a pin’ but I generally try to avoid pedantic arguments. It just ‘scares’ off those that want a simple answer, so… I will repeat my first comment: “If you are mounting your pots and switch directly to the shielding foil, there is no reason to solder a ground wire to the backshell of the pot”.

And as I recall, I agreed with that statement ...
Concerning comment 1) ...
When all are contained within the shield itself ... and all have to same common point of reference?
Concerning 2) ...
Yeah, I see what you are saying, and would agree with it (I didn't phrase what I meant very well BTW), but we are talking mulitple paths providing ground from a central ground from within a shield and all carrying the same induced or picked up signals ... The lowest path still makes the others null an void in this context as it provide the path of least resistance; actually being paralleled, a conglomerately lower resistance (super nickpicky territory there).
Comment 3) ...
No offense , but all that other stuff isn't necessarily applicable in the context of what we are speaking of here ... Most audio problems simply do not
require the level of sophistication of some of the more sensitive equipment and applications you allude to here. My point a bit more direct, if one part is going to pick up intereference, all of the circuit is as well, that is what the shield and ground lines (where applicable) are there for, to route that to ground. I can't explain what I mean any better than that, so if I'm still not making clear what I mean I'll just drop it.
Comment 4) ...
I only referenced that because one such system does use a similar approach to what we were discussing as far as the physical connections involved, and some claim to to have helped their set ups. :cool3:
 
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