Re: Guest Luthier Series - Peter Crossley (Crossley Guitars) Tuesday, Sept. 1 9-5 Eas
submitting early 'cuz i got meetings this am - will read my answers after-the-fact
1) welcome and thanks for doing this Peter
2) can you talk a bit about the ramifications of having neck binding when it comes time for a refret? .. .does the neck get stripped of the binding then refretted then rebound? or something else? ...
3) what are your thoughts on stainless steel frets especially as far as how they sound in an electric solidbody guitar amplified ?
4) what tonal variances do you hear from (sub)species of woods found native in Oz to their cousins found native in the US?
5) how do you determine what neck carve you'll use on a given instrument? how do you get that carve translated from your thought to the piece of raw lumber?
6) whats the deal with the lovely model? who is she? how'd you get her to model your guitars? how can we see more of her?
1) its a pleasure, although the answers may get a bit muddled around 4.30 am !!
2) Neck binding would remain on the neck when it comes time for a refret.
Now, if the guitar has the binding humped around the end of the fret, as some Gibsons do, then that has to go.. its scraped flat after the frets have been removed. The tang of the new fret is undercut so that it lays flat on top of the binding, and then finished by angling (filing) the fret end at 35 degress and rounding off.
3) I'll be honest here, I can not tell the difference in tone between stainless and nickel silver frets. I'm sure someone with absolutely perfect pitch may be able to hear the difference.. I cant.
The big bonus is wear.. stainless steel is a lot harder than nickel silver and therefore lasts longer.
4) We have a couple of good timbers, Blackwood and Myrtle (Tasmanian) Queensland Maple, Cooktown Ironwood, Red Cedar (Queensland/New Guinea)Silky Oak (known as lacewood in the US) and some quite interesting desert species.
The blackwood is good for tops, a tone not dissimilar to mahogany. Tasmanian Myrtle is similar to Maple, also for tops, Queesnland maple is a great all round timber bodies, necks and tops, very much like mahogany and a joy to work with. Light in weight and very resonant.
Cooktown Ironwood is a killer fretboard timber, it is very dense, sinks in water !!! not as brittle as ebony, and imparts a really nice mellowness to the guitar. not bright or sharp like ebony. Red Cedar is a good top timber for semi and full accoustics. This stuff is as resonant as hell, very good. I have used it for speaker cabinets 1 x 12 cabs loaded with Eminence Wizards. Killer cabs.
Also we have a very good accoustic timber her known as King William Pine, but seeing as how we are Australian its always known as King Billy Pine.
Silly Oak is good for decoration such as neck laminations etc.
5) Neck carves are done by measurement as a secondary check, but mainly done by feel. You get a feel for what constitutes a good neck, it takes a bit of practice becuase an unstrung neck feels very very different to a strung one. but preactice is what it is all about.
Meausrements are all in my head !! but that goeas for all the measurements on a guitar. Again practice.
Build ten to fifteen guitars and then throw them away !! hahaha, sad but true.
6) :naughty: