How much relief do you like?

Re: How much relief do you like?

I typically do like Lew - Except I use a feeler gauge.

.008 to .010" for the whole neck seems right for me.
 
Re: How much relief do you like?

Many of the used guitars and necks I have bought, its not possible to get evry much relief. In my expeience, most truss rods are tweaked, unless of course you have a new or high end guitar probably. For example, I am just getting thre final set up done on my Les Paul Special ( 1999) I got used. It will crank forward no problem, but when you go to crank some relief, it will not get very much till the truss rod gets loose. I'm willing to bet money most used guitars are like this; just check..i bet yours are too.. Truss rods in general are lower end guitars, and used parts guitars are screwed up.
I've had to get rid of some very nice necks..moist form USACG, and a couple form Warmoth cause of this. OTOH I've got several Warmopht necks that work great. Interestingly, my Fender Squire neck truss rod works great. Forget about old Peaveys like the T models..those necks are all twisetd and the truss rod s do not work- terrible guitars.
I actullay like a fair amount of rellief on Fenders and Gibsons, then the frets 100% level and the action cranked low to the max.
On flat radius Jacksons, I like just a tiny bit of relief.
 
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Re: How much relief do you like?

It will crank forward no problem, but when you go to crank some relief, it will not get very much till the truss rod gets loose.
This can be corrected during a refret by adjusting the T-rod so the neck has a slight back bow, and then having the FB replained, and refretted. When making a new neck it is a good idea to do this for a wider range of adjustability.
 
Re: How much relief do you like?

It all depends one one's playing style. Basically how hard one hits the strings with the picking hand.

I certainly hope all these measurements are not used when setting up the guitar, but are measurements taken once the guitar plays to your liking. It's pointless using measurements to create a setup, and measurements that suit you may very well not work for another player (again, due to the different ways people play). Judging by the tiny measurements people seem to like to quote, i can tell that all i'd get from such instruments would be handfuls of rattle and buzz.

When i was young, back in the 19th century, I would set my action as low as possible and endure some buzz, claiming 'it doesn't come through the amplifier, so it's all good'. I bet that happens a lot more nowdays with greater levels of distortion being used more consistently. However, I learnt that the best sounds come from having good solid, clear notes coming down the guitar cable. The best setups i've found have been with what i call an 'S' shaped fretboard ... enough relief in the middle of the 0-12 fret area so that i can hit chords hard, and then a 'ramp' downwards from about the 13th or 14th fret to give clearance for the higher notes to ring without choking.

Ultimately there are compromises with many or most instruments, particularly in conjunction with various playing styles.
 
Re: How much relief do you like?

Many of the used guitars and necks I have bought, its not possible to get evry much relief. In my expeience, most truss rods are tweaked, unless of course you have a new or high end guitar probably. For example, I am just getting thre final set up done on my Les Paul Special ( 1999) I got used. It will crank forward no problem, but when you go to crank some relief, it will not get very much till the truss rod gets loose. I'm willing to bet money most used guitars are like this; just check..i bet yours are too.. Truss rods in general are lower end guitars, and used parts guitars are screwed up.
I've had to get rid of some very nice necks..moist form USACG, and a couple form Warmoth cause of this. OTOH I've got several Warmopht necks that work great. Interestingly, my Fender Squire neck truss rod works great. Forget about old Peaveys like the T models..those necks are all twisetd and the truss rod s do not work- terrible guitars.
I actullay like a fair amount of rellief on Fenders and Gibsons, then the frets 100% level and the action cranked low to the max.
On flat radius Jacksons, I like just a tiny bit of relief.

Are you saying you aren't getting enough forward bow? What gauges are you using?
 
Re: How much relief do you like?

Are you saying you aren't getting enough forward bow? What gauges are you using?

Yes Sir. Not enough Forward bow. Weak/tweaked truss rods.Industry standard.I know about all the tricks to get more forward bow/relief. Simply put, most modern necks have insufficient truss rods or necks for forward relief IMO, or rather, in my experience.
 
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Re: How much relief do you like?

I tend to dial in .008-.009". I know that because I used to use feeler gauges to dial it in. Nowadays I mainly do it by feel. If it doesn't feel right, I hold down the string at the first/last fret and check the gap and the 9th or 12th fret. If it doesn't look right, I get out the wrench and adjust until it feels better.
 
Re: How much relief do you like?

Yes Sir. Not enough Forward bow. Weak/tweaked truss rods.Industry standard.I know about all the tricks to get more forward bow/relief. Simply put, most modern necks have insufficient truss rods or necks for forward relief IMO, or rather, in my experience.
I believe the vintage style will only apply rearward force.

I've never had this issue, most of mine were in that "factory" setting with just too much relief and too high action, ready to be tweaked and lowered to the player's preference.
 
Re: How much relief do you like?

As for the comments about not setting up to specs, I have to disagree a bit. Specs are not designed to be held fast to as an instant solution for all setup issues. They're just generalized starting points, and almost anyone who lists specs clearly states this. They are just a quick way to get a guitar "in the ballpark," after which you should experiment this way or that.
 
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