I'm thinking of building a 2x12

[Kamanda~SD]

Yes, in shop class I'm thinking of building a 2x12 cab. First off, itll be easier for lugging around to prctices that aren't at my house AND live I can run a 3/4 stack (not to mention blend speaker sounds!). So I was wondering:

-Does anyone have any dimensions/ diagrams for these?
-Any tips?
-Best wood to use?

anything that will be useful will be greatly appreciated as I couldnt find much on the net when it came to this. Thanks in advance!

-kamanda

 

[Fresh_Start]

Re: I'm thinking of building a 2x12

I think if you wander over to 18-watt.com you'll find plans that you can download. Seems like there was a thread here recently, so try the "Search" function first...

Chip

 

[Kamanda~SD]

Re: I'm thinking of building a 2x12

bump

 

[Virtual Kevorkian]

Re: I'm thinking of building a 2x12

I looked into it - It's actually just as expensive to build one properly as it is to buy one pre-built.

Look into the Avatar Vintage 2x12's - amazing prices for awesome cabinets.

 

[Kamanda~SD]

Re: I'm thinking of building a 2x12

You know, I would love an avatar cab, but that doesnt help me with the whole shop class aspect of this. I want to build something I can use **** near everyday and be able to say "I built that sucker!".

 

[the guy who invented fire]

Re: I'm thinking of building a 2x12

There are a thousand things to thinbk abotu when building a cab but first off I should tell you that Jeff is right...you can buy a great cab for less than you could build one for but if you really want to DIY here are spome thing to think about.

-Sizes

-floating or fixed baffle

-open or sealed back

-front or rear loaded

-hardwood, pine or plywood

-MDF or plywood baffle

Those are just a few of the things I would be looking into..

Now, that said If I were gonna DIY a 2x12 box I'd build it 20x30x12 give or take a few inches, I'd build it form solid pine and MAKE SURE TO FINGER JOINT THE SIDES!!! I'd build it with a fully floating baffle made form plywood, making sure not to make the baffle too thick I make it rear loaded with a sealed back and I'd drop in a pair of nice 12's and be done with it, however by the time you build that cab pay for the wood, take all the time to do it right then cover it with tolex and get a grill cloth for it would could have bought a real nice cab...either way, good luck!

 

[PFDarkside]

Re: I'm thinking of building a 2x12

I was going to say 3/4" birch ply, finger jointed, solid baffle. Don't forget bracing...

The best idea is to get plans for a cab that is proven, then copy it.

 

[Kamanda~SD]

Re: I'm thinking of building a 2x12

Thanks guys! As said before I know I can get a great cab for the same price but, many reasons point to DIY! (plus, its a good way to get the parents to agree on you getting another cab!).

I have thought about this EXTENSIVELY, there are about 2 things I'm a little confused about and want to clarify with anyone whos ever built a cab before (I'll post those at the end of this post). And basically, I'm trying to copy a Marshall 1936.

TGWIF: Here's the answer to your questions:

Sizes- Copying Marshall 1936
Floating or Fixed Baffle- That's one of my questions
Open or Sealed- Sealed
Front or rear loaded- Rear (If I'm understanding that right)
Material- Birch Plywood, 3/4" (maybe 5/8" for the baffle)
Baffle- Plywood

Finding plans is SUPER hard for 2x12's, but I got alot of dimensions and such that I need. So now its question time:

Rounded corners/edges: Do I just put on a seprate peice onto the plywood? A tiny bit of the tolex is ripped on my cab and thats what it looks like they've done (to make routering easier). Kinda hard to explain but I hope you get the point.

Baffle: Floating or fixed, whats the difference? And how to do each. I also got this "On the baffle use a 1/4 or 3/8 inch baltic birch frame glued to the baffle to keep the grill cloth from vibrating against the baffle" What does that mean? Can someone please explain that a bit better? The grill cloth is on its own frame correct?

I've got a few more clarifications but I'll get to those after this because this is one lone post! The only thing I need clarifying on is basically the whole front part. The shell and back I have no issues with. Thanks in advance!

p.s. Of course I will be using finger joints!

 

[Rich_S]

Re: I'm thinking of building a 2x12

The rounded edges should be done with a router equipped with a rounding-over bit. You don't need a fancy one with a pilot bearing, just get a cheap plain one. If it causes rubbing or burning below the round-over, no problem - the Tolex will cover it.

Marshall baffles are fixed - meaning screwed into the cab around all four sides. The grill cloth is attached right to baffle, but - there are spacer strips around the outsides. Basically, the flat baffle board has plywood strips (1/4" x 1" or thereabouts) around its outside edge. They are there to keep the grill cloth about a 1/4" off the baffle, so it doesn't flap against the baffle board in the middle.

As someone else said, check the downloads section at 18Watt.com. They have detailed plans for a normal Marshall 4x12 cab, which you can simplify down to a 2x12.

The 1936 is a great cab, BTW - I owned one for many years.

 

[Kamanda~SD]

Re: I'm thinking of building a 2x12

Thank you so much for clearing up the grillcloth side of things!

As for 18watt, yes I am a member there and have a guy helping me there as well. Between these two places I've got all the info down I need, I think I'm ready to start this sucker, thanks alot!