Jumpered channels vs one wire cascade mod

idsnowdog

Imperator of Indignation
I know that on a Bassman, YBA-1, and JTM45 circuit you have V1 which is two halves of a 12AX7 running in parallel to separate channel inputs. Which is basically 1/2 of a 12AX7 going into V2. It looks like either mod runs the two halves in series. What are the pros and cons or differences for each type beyond an external channel jumper being non-permanent?
 
I'm curious about this too. I wonder if there's any audible difference. I used to jumper my Traynor heads, which worked great for what I wanted, but never tried a hardwired mod. A few years ago I started running a parallel processing rig into both sides, to blend (say) clean and distorted channels, or a dry and a wet sound. Love it for bass and I wouldn't want to give up the flexibility by hardwiring my 100w head, but it might be fun to try if I get another one down the road.
 
Cascade is different than Parallel. If you " jumper " the channels, you get a bigger tone ( than just a single input ) and a weeee bit more gain ( not much ), but can often take you from just not quite enough, to perhaps just enough.

With the cascade mod, you are running the tubes in series, or one into another, into another, etc. This adds significantly more gain and can take you from not enough, to more than enough gain.

Tit for tat, I like paralleled triodes as a method of producing gain. Done right, you gain about 3db of headroom, and therefore gain, you reduce the noise floor by nearly half, and it certainly adds a little more complexity to the sound. It usually sounds fatter, rounder, and more bubbly given the same relative gain structure as a single triode does. In my amp builds, a parallel triode is one of my things and is a primary characteristic of my designs.

Cascaded amp designs such as most Marshalls, are generally aiming for preamp-based distortion, or gain that is produced earlier in the amp. They tend to be less bassy, to keep the flub under control, reduce blocking distortion, and maintain a tighter sound. So some designs not designed with " cascading " in mind, can suffer from the added gain such a topology would acquire. It often requires more work elsewhere to tame the beast so to speak. Also, a thing to keep in mind is the added noise. Adding gain stages adds noise, and the lead dress and layout can interfere with the installation.

In my early amp design years, I struggled with trying to make an amp what it was not meant to be. I found that you have to design an amp around what it is. You can't just drop a JCM-800 preamp in a Vox AC30 and expect it to be a JCM-800, it doesn't work that way. Once I started thinking about the amp design as one step at a time, I realized you can end up taking the amp where it wants to go. Meanwhile, you learn how to manipulate your design to achieve your goal the first time around. I have a 5-watt design that is a prime example of that. I got it 95% of what I wanted on the first shot. Simple design granted, but, without having to update the design, I was at my target. The more complex the amp, the harder that is to achieve.

The point I am making is that I feel you should start with what doesn't disturb the original design too much. In this case, I think you should go with the parallel/jumper option. If that isn't what you are looking for, try going with a single channel of interest and then pushing it with a boost pedal. If that gets you where you want, then consider cascading. I would try a boost pedal with the first option anyway. Parallel triodes work really well with boost pedals.
 
So are the two halves of the 12AX7 still in parallel when jumpered or are they in series? I would think that with the jumper mod you would have all of the circuitry before V1 for both channels in the circuit? With the one wire mod the two halves are supposed to be together in series and it looks like the input circuitry on the second channel is bypassed.
 
they are in parallel i believe.

i have a musicmaster bass amp that a buddy of mine gutted and customized for me. one preamp tube with both sides in parallel, longtail pair pi feeding two cathode biased 6v6s. its a fat sounding lil mofo running at fairly low plates. love it!
 
Rob's instructions clearly state " With the Normal volume knob down the input jacks function normally with the jacks grounded when nothing is plugged in. Pull the Normal volume knob up and the two Hi jacks are jumpered together for a fatter tone. Your guitar signal will flow through both V1A and V1B preamp tubes in parallel which adds some texture and complexity to the tone. "....

The jumpers channels run the two " inputs " in parallel. The cascade mod run the tubes in series.
 
If an amp had both mods what would happen with both engaged?

You can't do it that way without adding yet another tube. Each 12AX7 has two triodes in it. So if you have 3 X 12AX7's you have a total of 6 triodes. The PI uses 2 of them, leaving you with 4. In Most Marshall vintage amps, the first tube is split for use to feed two channels, where one is bassy and the other is bright. This leaves only one more pair of triodes to do the remaining work. The third triode is a gain stage and the fourth is used as a cathode follower, meaning both channels feed into the same final pair of triodes.

In a Bassman, you have this exact scenario. You have 3 X 12AX7's, or 6 triodes. The first 12AX7 is split over two channel inputs, those two channels converge into a triode that then feeds a cathode follower, which then feeds a PI. If you parallel the inputs, that would be the first 12AX7 being paralleled ( two triodes in parallel ). Which then feeds the second 12AX7's gain stage and cathode follower stage, then to the PI. So you cannot possibly parallel the inputs and also run them in series to another gain stage without adding another triode to do so.

So, if you added another gain stage, what would happen? Well, you would have something similar to just doing the cascade mod. Keep in mind, that paralleling the tubes adds a marginal amount of extra gain and bandwidth. So while it may push one stage just a bit more, adding yet another may take it one step too far. It will require tuning, and the reduction of gain somewhere to reduce blocking distortion potential. I.E. you are expending energy that you never needed. It is a balancing act. I'm not saying it won't work, I'm saying it will require a full redo, or re-engineering of the amp to make it work. It is not plug-and-play. Going to my above post, you would be trying to make an amp what it currently isn't, and that is not the easy way to make an amp.
 
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