Kahler 2300 Series Question

[BigDreamer]

I was reading Kahler's website and it said that "only top routing is required". I'm kind of unsure on how to interpret this. I know they are a flat mount bridge but will I be able to bend notes up ala Slayer with it or do I have to recess it for that?

Another reason I'm confused on this issue is because USACG only has one Kahler bridge routing option. This leads me to believe there is only one way to mount a Kahler (as in you can't recess them)??

Sorry if I'm missing something obvious here, but any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[MattPete]

Re: Kahler 2300 Series Question

Recessing doesn't apply to Kahlers. They're nothing like Floyds -- more like high-tech Bigsbys.

 

[BigDreamer]

Re: Kahler 2300 Series Question

Ok, but they can still bend notes up, correct?

 

[aleclee]

Re: Kahler 2300 Series Question

Ok, but they can still bend notes up, correct?

Back when my main guitar had a Kahler, I regularly would pull up by as much as a major third.

 

[BigDreamer]

Re: Kahler 2300 Series Question

Awesome! Now it looks like the only difficult part about getting a Kahler is paying for it lol.

 

[taphappy]

Re: Kahler 2300 Series Question

WHy not just get a Floyd or a good copy like a Lo Pro or Edge?

 

[BigDreamer]

Re: Kahler 2300 Series Question

I think i'd like the "smoothness of action", for lack of better words, of the kahlers a little more than a floyd or a floyd ripoff. plus i could experiment with the different metals to find just the right tone. they also look pretty badass in my opinion.

A pretty weak argument, but i've just always liked them.

 

[BigDreamer]

Re: Kahler 2300 Series Question

would a tremspaced bridge pup work best with a Kahler or can you get by with standard spaced?

 

[Usurper666]

Re: Kahler 2300 Series Question

would a tremspaced bridge pup work best with a Kahler or can you get by with standard spaced?

Doesn't matter, each saddle can be moved left to right, up and down, and front to back. A Kahler has a lot more adjustable/moving parts than a Floyd, which is another reason why some people like them. Be warned though, if a wobbly arm bothers you then a Kahler could drive you nuts. The arms tend to wobble around in the socket after awhile, no matter how much you tighten it.

Cheers,

CJ

 

[BigDreamer]

Re: Kahler 2300 Series Question

How wobbly are we talkin? i dig having it move in its socket a bit, that's how i have my vintage trem on my fender set (it's because of this that i go through trem arms like strings lol).

 

[Usurper666]

Re: Kahler 2300 Series Question

That's about how wobbly it gets, if that doesn't bother you then go for it.

Cheers,

CJ

 

[BigDreamer]

Re: Kahler 2300 Series Question

before this thread gets moved to page 2 i thought of another question.

How are setups difficulty wise on Kahlers, like changing string gauges, intonating, ect.? Would you say it's easier or harder than an OFR?

 

[Zerberus]

Re: Kahler 2300 Series Question

....Be warned though, if a wobbly arm bothers you then a Kahler could drive you nuts. The arms tend to wobble around in the socket after awhile, no matter how much you tighten it....

I´ve never seen this on a 23xx series trem, but only on the Floyd copies.... On a 23xx the arm screws directly into the cam and is a tight fit with even just 3 or 4 turns in (of, like, 20)... My ß84 Flying V still has the original arm and the fit is tight as a shrimp´s butt....

A Kahler is harder to setup than a Floyd the first time and requires a bit more care to keep in good shape, but otherwise it´s preference of tone and bridge "feel".

I personally recommend the heavier Bass Trem Springs,, though... they tighten up the tone and also make the arm more "firm"... but many like the standard ones, so YMMV...

 

[Fritz6]

Re: Kahler 2300 Series Question

would a tremspaced bridge pup work best with a Kahler or can you get by with standard spaced?

The string path will be straight with standard spaced. I have an F spaced breed with my Kahler and the outside E's are off a bit. But I want the string path straight so I leave it as is. No biggie.

I've found settin up my floyd's is a little more involved then the kahler. Both floyd's are blocked for downward push only. With the floyd's I flip the guitar and place a pre-cut screw on the right side of the trem block.

Then loosen the springs till the screw is held in place. Now the bridge is essentially a hard tail, makin it ALOT easier to do your string change, intonation, etc. Bridge should be parallel to body.

I have those intonation keys which saves alot of time intonating. When you're done, SLOWLY tighten the springs till the screw falls out and your done. Bridge'll be right back where you started.

Kahler is a floater and cant be blocked, so I have to keep checking the previous string after I tune the next one. ie: Tune the low E, tune the A, recheck E cause it might be a little flat.

The BIG advantage is the saddles are height adjustable on the kahler. Shimming a floyd is very time consuming, but IMO absolutely necessary for a super smooth set-up when the neck and bridge radius dont match. Also you can rest your palm on the kahler and it wont go sharp. Have to be careful of that on a floating floyd.

Another plus is your can drill new mounting holes on the kahler base if need
be. On a floyd you have to pull the old posts, dowel the holes and re-drill. With the Kahler, drill new countersunk holes in the base and some pilot holes in the body and you're good to go.

The nitwit who installed my kahler didnt fill in the cavity and two screws were installed crooked. One broke thru. Rather than try to fill in the huge cavity, I had a friend drill out another screw hole farther away from the one that broke thru. I doweled the other hole and used slightly smaller screws for both.

Prob wouldn't want to do this on a new axe, just a FYI.