Kent..Check This Out Re: Pot Resistance

STRATDELUXER97

Stratoblaster Tone Meister
I found out awhile back that while you have your CTS pot apart and the carbon ring sitting in front of you doing your No Load pot scraping etc...If you take a small exacto knife blade and carefully remove carbon all around the inside section of the carbon ring,that you can raise the pot values...You can't achieve big gains,but in my case,I could probably get the pot from 235k to above 250k if I really felt the need..You never scrape on the top side of the carbon pile as you know,but rather on the very edges of the carbon.The more carbon you remove from those edges,the higher your pot values will read...Learn something everyday on this forum! :dance:

John
 
Re: Kent..Check This Out Re: Pot Resistance

STRATDELUXER97 said:
I found out awhile back that while you have your CTS pot apart and the carbon ring sitting in front of you doing your No Load pot scraping etc...If you take a small exacto knife blade and carefully remove carbon all around the inside section of the carbon ring,that you can raise the pot values...You can't achieve big gains,but in my case,I could probably get the pot from 235k to above 250k if I really felt the need..You never scrape on the top side of the carbon pile as you know,but rather on the very edges of the carbon.The more carbon you remove from those edges,the higher your pot values will read...Learn something everyday on this forum! :dance:

John
That's cool, but when I do a no-load (this works for me BTW, but everyone may not find this the best approach) either I cut the track, a bevel it (gotta love dremels ) ala fender, which has it's uses or I use a sanding drum in the dremel to file down the side of the nylon wiper tab that connects to the wiper stop in the pot cover on the CW lug side. This in effect allows the wiper to turn to *11*, it moves itself off the pad. This too has it's uses as in both you get the use of CW lug for tap purposes. In the latter example especially you still can use both lugs normally (such as for a double tuned tone circuit).
I never messed with any scraping of the resistive track itself, it would be great if you had a jig/tool made up for that, or a guide for a dremel honing bit, that controlled the excursion of the bit along the inner cirumference.
I doubt it would work on conductive plastic, it might on cermet pots though ... cool.

Well, I got to dance into a REM stage shortly, good rapping with ya John, thanks bro ...later. :)
 
Re: Kent..Check This Out Re: Pot Resistance

Kent S. said:
That's cool, but when I do a no-load (this works for me BTW, but everyone may not find this the best approach) either I cut the track, a bevel it (gotta love dremels ) ala fender, which has it's uses or I use a sanding drum in the dremel to file down the side of the nylon wiper tab that connects to the wiper stop in the pot cover on the CW lug side. This in effect allows the wiper to turn to *11*, it moves itself off the pad. This too has it's uses as in both you get the use of CW lug for tap purposes. In the latter example especially you still can use both lugs normally (such as for a double tuned tone circuit).
I never messed with any scraping of the resistive track itself, it would be great if you had a jig/tool made up for that, or a guide for a dremel honing bit, that controlled the excursion of the bit along the inner cirumference.
I doubt it would work on conductive plastic, it might on cermet pots though ... cool.

Well, I got to dance into a REM stage shortly, good rapping with ya John, thanks bro ...later. :)

Later buddy and thanks for the added info..

John
 
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