joyouswolf
New member
How is it to work with Lead free solder?
Does this stuff work as well as the 60 (tin)/40 (lead) solder?
Thanks & peace
Does this stuff work as well as the 60 (tin)/40 (lead) solder?
Thanks & peace
Lead Free solder any good?
- Thread starter joyouswolf
- Start date
L
Little Pigbacon
Guest
Re: Lead Free solder any good?
No idea, dude. I've been using AudioQuest for years and have no interest in anything else.
No idea, dude. I've been using AudioQuest for years and have no interest in anything else.
beaubrummels
Well-known member
Re: Lead Free solder any good?
I've used lead-free rosin core silver bearing solder for all my guitars for quite a number of years. I get solid, reliable connections and it doesn't affect the sound of the circuit or components.
I've used lead-free rosin core silver bearing solder for all my guitars for quite a number of years. I get solid, reliable connections and it doesn't affect the sound of the circuit or components.
dotsdad
New member
Re: Lead Free solder any good?
It works fine, but it does require more skill with the iron. Lead-free solder has a higher melting point than the old leaded stuff. This means that you'll either need to use a higher-wattage iron to melt it, or leave a smaller iron on the joint longer. If you overheat the joint, you could end up melting other components (cheap wires jackets/switch wafers,etc). If you don't get it hot enough, you could get cold solder joints. ti's a delicate balance and you have to know what you're doing!
If you do not live in the EU, I would go with non-RoHS "leaded" solder. It'll give you a little more room for error.
It works fine, but it does require more skill with the iron. Lead-free solder has a higher melting point than the old leaded stuff. This means that you'll either need to use a higher-wattage iron to melt it, or leave a smaller iron on the joint longer. If you overheat the joint, you could end up melting other components (cheap wires jackets/switch wafers,etc). If you don't get it hot enough, you could get cold solder joints. ti's a delicate balance and you have to know what you're doing!
If you do not live in the EU, I would go with non-RoHS "leaded" solder. It'll give you a little more room for error.
beaubrummels
Well-known member
Re: Lead Free solder any good?
FWIW - Here's an example of the results I'm getting with lead-free rosin core silver bearing solder. dotsdad is right, it does take a hotter iron and you gotta be fast to get it right. Also, I keep the tip clean, tinned, and replace it every project/guitar.
View attachment 43290
FWIW - Here's an example of the results I'm getting with lead-free rosin core silver bearing solder. dotsdad is right, it does take a hotter iron and you gotta be fast to get it right. Also, I keep the tip clean, tinned, and replace it every project/guitar.
View attachment 43290
joyouswolf
New member
Re: Lead Free solder any good?
Good to know.
And that's what I needed to know about the irons.
Thanks all
Good to know.
And that's what I needed to know about the irons.
Thanks all
King IzzO)))
Ultimate Kitten Puncher
Re: Lead Free solder any good?
You guys are thinking way too hard. Slightly tin your iron before you work any connection and the lead free works just fine, I prefer not to **** with lead (or mercury).
Also, replacing the tip every other project? WTF? If you keep your tip clean and tinned that's absolutely unnecessary. I've been using the same tip for 2 years through probably a hundred pickup mods/wiring jobs and it's still fine.
Jessie, you don't seriously pay $120 for solder, do you?
You guys are thinking way too hard. Slightly tin your iron before you work any connection and the lead free works just fine, I prefer not to **** with lead (or mercury).
Also, replacing the tip every other project? WTF? If you keep your tip clean and tinned that's absolutely unnecessary. I've been using the same tip for 2 years through probably a hundred pickup mods/wiring jobs and it's still fine.
Jessie, you don't seriously pay $120 for solder, do you?
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ratherdashing
Kablamminator
Re: Lead Free solder any good?
Unless a "project" involves hundreds and hundreds of solder joints, replacing a tip each time is needlessly wasteful!
I once built twelve pedals, each with around 60 lead free solder joints (due to RoHS requirements), on a single pencil tip.
As long as you keep it clean and tinned, and don't subject it to crazy temperature swings (i.e. dip it in cold water or something dumb like that), a single tip will last through many, many guitar wirings.
As for lead free solder, I find it a bit harder to work with, but not impossible. And ironically, the smoke it gives off is WAY more toxic than leaded solder. RoHS was designed to keep toxic stuff out of EU landfills, not builders' lungs
Unless a "project" involves hundreds and hundreds of solder joints, replacing a tip each time is needlessly wasteful!
I once built twelve pedals, each with around 60 lead free solder joints (due to RoHS requirements), on a single pencil tip.
As long as you keep it clean and tinned, and don't subject it to crazy temperature swings (i.e. dip it in cold water or something dumb like that), a single tip will last through many, many guitar wirings.
As for lead free solder, I find it a bit harder to work with, but not impossible. And ironically, the smoke it gives off is WAY more toxic than leaded solder. RoHS was designed to keep toxic stuff out of EU landfills, not builders' lungs
King IzzO)))
Ultimate Kitten Puncher
Re: Lead Free solder any good?
And this I did not know, I always use a fan anyway, but wow.
As for lead free solder, I find it a bit harder to work with, but not impossible. And ironically, the smoke it gives off is WAY more toxic than leaded solder. RoHS was designed to keep toxic stuff out of EU landfills, not builders' lungs
And this I did not know, I always use a fan anyway, but wow.
Edgecrusher
New member
Re: Lead Free solder any good?
low and indistinct like a car through catalytic converters
But how does it sound
low and indistinct like a car through catalytic converters
Re: Lead Free solder any good?
Most of your solder joints look ok, but that one on the back of the pot is definitely a cold joint...solder didn't flow at all (big blob). The one on the side of the pot has some areas of flow, but still pretty blobbed up/cold. The joints on the lugs look great.
Yes, "you gotta be fast to get it right", but you were maybe a bit too fast on that pot (or iron was not hot enough).
Give me 60/40 anyday.
Most of your solder joints look ok, but that one on the back of the pot is definitely a cold joint...solder didn't flow at all (big blob). The one on the side of the pot has some areas of flow, but still pretty blobbed up/cold. The joints on the lugs look great.
Yes, "you gotta be fast to get it right", but you were maybe a bit too fast on that pot (or iron was not hot enough).
Give me 60/40 anyday.
L
Little Pigbacon
Guest
Re: Lead Free solder any good?
I haven't bought it in a while, but I never paid that much for it. I'd get a 1/2-lb. roll that would last several years. I've got most of a roll left, at the moment.
I haven't bought it in a while, but I never paid that much for it. I'd get a 1/2-lb. roll that would last several years. I've got most of a roll left, at the moment.
beaubrummels
Well-known member
Re: Lead Free solder any good?
Well, not necessarily every project, but definitely after about 3-5 guitars I just can't seem to get enough heat to the tip. I'm using a 40-watt Weller and I do my best to keep it clean and tinned. The tip doesn't transfer enough heat, so I either end up with having to stay on the component too long, or start having some of the cold joint issues GuitarDoc pointed out.
Tips are only a buck or two. Wasting the components is more expensive to me.
Well, not necessarily every project, but definitely after about 3-5 guitars I just can't seem to get enough heat to the tip. I'm using a 40-watt Weller and I do my best to keep it clean and tinned. The tip doesn't transfer enough heat, so I either end up with having to stay on the component too long, or start having some of the cold joint issues GuitarDoc pointed out.
Tips are only a buck or two. Wasting the components is more expensive to me.
L
Little Pigbacon
Guest
Re: Lead Free solder any good?
A good iron solves both problems. A variable-temperature Weller or clone will get hot enough to do that kind of work cleanly and efficiently. You can still burn the tips up if you leave them cooking at max temperature and keep leaving them like that for a few hours at a time. Take care of the thing properly, and you're looking at infrequent tip replacement and an iron that will last years.
A good iron solves both problems. A variable-temperature Weller or clone will get hot enough to do that kind of work cleanly and efficiently. You can still burn the tips up if you leave them cooking at max temperature and keep leaving them like that for a few hours at a time. Take care of the thing properly, and you're looking at infrequent tip replacement and an iron that will last years.
beaubrummels
Well-known member
Re: Lead Free solder any good?
Thank you. I think the tips burning up is the problem I'm having. I'll look into a better iron. (My current one isn't variable.)
Thank you. I think the tips burning up is the problem I'm having. I'll look into a better iron. (My current one isn't variable.)
LtKojak
New member
Re: Lead Free solder any good?
Here in EU land, since 2009 the solder sold is Lead-free only.
At the beginning you curse a lot more often than usual, then you get use to it and don't think anymore that "You were better when you were worse".
That's life. It sucks. Deal with it! :cool2:
Here in EU land, since 2009 the solder sold is Lead-free only.
At the beginning you curse a lot more often than usual, then you get use to it and don't think anymore that "You were better when you were worse".
That's life. It sucks. Deal with it! :cool2: