It enables them to produce more consistently on a production level withiut resorting to a long neck tenon and longer build times
Another brilliant move by Gibson's engineering idiots....able to save money while simultaneously ruining the company/brand. Bravo.
I didn't think they technically changed the spec on the angle, they just went to a rounded "rocker" bottom on their tenons to relax their tolerances, and so their production associates could "eyeball" it when they were setting the neck.
I saw it all on a Gibson special on TV. They don't even measure those angles in Nashville.
They have been doing that for years, and thus why the neck angles were all over the place. Now they have changed to a specific hard angle that is easy to replicate over and over due to a new.process. They have not t been very open about how its done, but Id wager some new machine/tech they paid alot of $ for.
It doesnt make any sense cos even the Epiphones are far closer to correct. And of course the historics are too. IDK why they just dont change the top carve back to a historic spec and do it the right way, but I suspect its all about eliminating a very skilled and labor intensiveprocess, as well as having to put far less effort and time into building necks and keeping them and the fingerboard straight, and just plekking to "even everything out".
In the 50's and early 60's it was different than it was in the late 60's which was different than the 70's and again a change in the 80's...same thing wiht headstock angles...
Who gives a crap...if you like the guitar then play it no need to over think stupid crap about the neck angle, fretboard radius, fret size, etc...
In the 50's and early 60's it was different than it was in the late 60's which was different than the 70's and again a change in the 80's...same thing wiht headstock angles...
Who gives a crap...if you like the guitar then play it no need to over think stupid crap about the neck angle, fretboard radius, fret size, etc...
If someone doesn't want to buy new Gibsons that's fine, they don't care and neither do we...
FWIW, Gibson is building some of the best guitars they've built since their golden age IMO and I'm glad to it!
+1. I like angled necks, but I don't pay attention to what the angle is. Some seem shallower than others (SG's in particular), but it doesn't effect the way I play.
In the 50's and early 60's it was different than it was in the late 60's which was different than the 70's and again a change in the 80's...same thing wiht headstock angles...
Who gives a crap...if you like the guitar then play it no need to over think stupid crap about the neck angle, fretboard radius, fret size, etc...
If someone doesn't want to buy new Gibsons that's fine, they don't care and neither do we...
FWIW, Gibson is building some of the best guitars they've built since their golden age IMO and I'm glad to it!
Who gives a crap...if you like the guitar then play it no need to over think stupid crap about the neck angle, fretboard radius, fret size, etc...
If someone doesn't want to buy new Gibsons that's fine, they don't care and neither do we...
!
. Would it be better with a different angle? I don't know and don't care.
I built a LP-based guitar last year and had to calculate the neck angle. It's a complex thing and something that really needs to be done for each individiual instrument because fretboard thickness, fret height and several other things come into the equation. In my particular case, i felt that having the bridge up high would mean less threads contacting the body ferrules so i tried to set the neck in a way that would keep the bridge low to the body while still allowing enough downward adjustment.
4 1/2 degrees was not enough, 5 degrees was too much. I probably ended up with an angle of about 4.7 degrees and it worked out perfect for my guitar. Half a degree can make a lot of difference in height at the bridge.
While i was deep into all this, making full-size drawings, measuring the bridge height, fretboard thickness, fret heights etc., i got thinking about how this would have been if i had to make not one but many guitars like this. After all, fretboard thicknesses could end up varying to some degree due to how much sanding was done, and fret heights could vary once fret dressing was completed. So obviously a compromise would have to be reached as way too much time and effort would be wasted addressing the guitars one-at-a-time.
Following on from that, the bridges would have to be set high enough so that none of them ever found themselves in the position of needing the bridge lowered but the bridge was already as low as it could go. So favouring a slightly high bridge setting would be the only way to ensure that there would always be some downward adjusment room available despite veriables in the geometrical equation.
So it's a compromise to avoid running into set-up problems. In the case of my guitar, it was a one-off and i had the luxury of taking my time and creating the ideal angle that would provide the best transfer of tone into the wood (most of the bridge posts' threads contacting the body) while still allowing the action to be lowered to the point of unplayability.
Holy ****...a post in which I agree with both TGWIF AND Blueman. The end is nigh.