Let's say you just got a JBJ and CCJ and you have a Les Paul...
- Thread starter Anficht
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PFDarkside
of the Forum
Re: Let's say you just got a JBJ and CCJ and you have a Les Paul...
If you like ultra smooth "woman tone" from the neck try JB in the bridge and CC in the neck.
(I'm still curious to try this combo myself)
If you like ultra smooth "woman tone" from the neck try JB in the bridge and CC in the neck.
(I'm still curious to try this combo myself)
beaubrummels
Well-known member
Re: Let's say you just got a JBJ and CCJ and you have a Les Paul...
I'd put the CCJ in the bridge, sell the JBJ and get a really good neck pickup.
I'd put the CCJ in the bridge, sell the JBJ and get a really good neck pickup.
Re: Let's say you just got a JBJ and CCJ and you have a Les Paul...
Stock pickups, I'd go JB in the bridge, hot wind with A5 magnet in the neck is going to have huge imbalance problems with an A2 magnet in the bridge. CC in neck may be too fat and butter, though.
Magnet swaps, there's all kinds of fun options. Either in neck with A3 sounds a lot like a fatter version of itself as an A2 magnet bridge pickup. The A3's extra high end helps keep it workable for fat cleans in spite of the emphasized lower frequencies from the neck position.
The Custom series are very popular for magnet swaps in this forum. Ceramic, you have the original SH-5 Custom. A2 is of course the Custom Custom that you have. A5 is the SH-14 Custom 5. With an A8, you get the popular forum "Custom 8", which is sort of like a ceramic Custom with high end rolled off more like the A2. A unique vintage open roar, with a modern punch in the low end. Then there's the assorted roughcast A5, unoriented A5, and roughcast unoriented A5 combinations, in descending output and brightness. Unoriented A5 is partway between A5 and A2 [which is always unoriented], and roughcast shaves off the high end a bit compared to a magnet that's been polished smooth.
Just between those two pickups you have an A2 and an A5 for magnet swapping.
Swap an A8 magnet into the CC, and with even a stock JB in the neck could be fun.
And if you need either tighter with more bite, I recommend swapping in 0.5" screws to tighten things up.
I use a JB with an A3 magnet and three 0.5" hex screws under the wound strings as my neck pickup [it's also turned so stud poles are toward the neck, and bass side screwed in with polepiece screws raised under lower strings, all of which gives it very fat midrange under high notes and decent definition for low], in a guitar where stock it was terrible as a bridge pickup. It's a lot of fun as a neck pickup, great for fat leads and chunky riffs. It's a bit fat for thrash, but not many thrash rhythm players like any neck pickup for rhythm, exactly because the neck position doesn't tend to be tight enough.
You wont get standard neck humbucker tones with a hot bridge humbucker in the neck. If you are interested in exploring unusual possibilities, there are a bunch of options.
Stock pickups, I'd go JB in the bridge, hot wind with A5 magnet in the neck is going to have huge imbalance problems with an A2 magnet in the bridge. CC in neck may be too fat and butter, though.
Magnet swaps, there's all kinds of fun options. Either in neck with A3 sounds a lot like a fatter version of itself as an A2 magnet bridge pickup. The A3's extra high end helps keep it workable for fat cleans in spite of the emphasized lower frequencies from the neck position.
The Custom series are very popular for magnet swaps in this forum. Ceramic, you have the original SH-5 Custom. A2 is of course the Custom Custom that you have. A5 is the SH-14 Custom 5. With an A8, you get the popular forum "Custom 8", which is sort of like a ceramic Custom with high end rolled off more like the A2. A unique vintage open roar, with a modern punch in the low end. Then there's the assorted roughcast A5, unoriented A5, and roughcast unoriented A5 combinations, in descending output and brightness. Unoriented A5 is partway between A5 and A2 [which is always unoriented], and roughcast shaves off the high end a bit compared to a magnet that's been polished smooth.
Just between those two pickups you have an A2 and an A5 for magnet swapping.
Swap an A8 magnet into the CC, and with even a stock JB in the neck could be fun.
And if you need either tighter with more bite, I recommend swapping in 0.5" screws to tighten things up.
I use a JB with an A3 magnet and three 0.5" hex screws under the wound strings as my neck pickup [it's also turned so stud poles are toward the neck, and bass side screwed in with polepiece screws raised under lower strings, all of which gives it very fat midrange under high notes and decent definition for low], in a guitar where stock it was terrible as a bridge pickup. It's a lot of fun as a neck pickup, great for fat leads and chunky riffs. It's a bit fat for thrash, but not many thrash rhythm players like any neck pickup for rhythm, exactly because the neck position doesn't tend to be tight enough.
blueman335
Mojo's Minions
Re: Let's say you just got a JBJ and CCJ and you have a Les Paul...
I'd put the CC in the bridge, with an UOA5 or A8 magnet, and a PAF or Jazz in the neck slot. If you don't have one of those, sell/trade the JB.
I'd put the CC in the bridge, with an UOA5 or A8 magnet, and a PAF or Jazz in the neck slot. If you don't have one of those, sell/trade the JB.
Re: Let's say you just got a JBJ and CCJ and you have a Les Paul...
To get a neck pickup that behaves like the standard lower output neck humbucker, that is certainly the right place to start. And unless the Les Paul is unusually bright, you probably do want a brighter magnet than an A2 in the bridge. And JB wouldn't be my first choice for a Les Paul, but there are those who love them in anything.
I'd recommend trying what you have, and seeing what works for you, before getting other pickups. At the worst, you'll learn something. Perhaps just that you really don't like hot pickups in the neck, even with lower output magnets. Or maybe you'll discover you want a guitar around with that configuration... (Though maybe not that guitar.)
To get a neck pickup that behaves like the standard lower output neck humbucker, that is certainly the right place to start. And unless the Les Paul is unusually bright, you probably do want a brighter magnet than an A2 in the bridge. And JB wouldn't be my first choice for a Les Paul, but there are those who love them in anything.
I'd recommend trying what you have, and seeing what works for you, before getting other pickups. At the worst, you'll learn something. Perhaps just that you really don't like hot pickups in the neck, even with lower output magnets. Or maybe you'll discover you want a guitar around with that configuration... (Though maybe not that guitar.)
PFDarkside
of the Forum
Re: Let's say you just got a JBJ and CCJ and you have a Les Paul...
The reason I mention it is that Hamer did sell guitars with the CC in the neck, and Brian Blush of the Refreshments used the CC in the neck of a Les Paul for his creamy leads.
It will not be a traditional PAF tone by any means. But it may be interesting to try since he has them both in hand.
The reason I mention it is that Hamer did sell guitars with the CC in the neck, and Brian Blush of the Refreshments used the CC in the neck of a Les Paul for his creamy leads.
It will not be a traditional PAF tone by any means. But it may be interesting to try since he has them both in hand.
blueman335
Mojo's Minions
Re: Let's say you just got a JBJ and CCJ and you have a Les Paul...
A factor in this kind of situation is whether he can do the work himself, or has to pay someone to do it. When it doesn't cost anything, it's easier to experiment with swapping PU's, pots, magnets, etc. When you're shelling out money for each change, it's better to go with what's most likely to work best for you the first time around. PU's in the neck slot inherently have additional output/mids/lows from the stronger string vibrations; using a hot bridge PU in the neck slot increase that noticeably, and many players don't want tones that dark and loud. Depends on what kind of music you're playing.
A factor in this kind of situation is whether he can do the work himself, or has to pay someone to do it. When it doesn't cost anything, it's easier to experiment with swapping PU's, pots, magnets, etc. When you're shelling out money for each change, it's better to go with what's most likely to work best for you the first time around. PU's in the neck slot inherently have additional output/mids/lows from the stronger string vibrations; using a hot bridge PU in the neck slot increase that noticeably, and many players don't want tones that dark and loud. Depends on what kind of music you're playing.
Nightburst
New member
Re: Let's say you just got a JBJ and CCJ and you have a Les Paul...
I'd sell or swap the JB for something else like a 59n to compliment the CC in the bridge better.
I'd sell or swap the JB for something else like a 59n to compliment the CC in the bridge better.
Re: Let's say you just got a JBJ and CCJ and you have a Les Paul...
Absolutely. Though in the magnet swap case, it's not necessarily dark, though certainly not as sparkly as the typical slightly underwound PAF aimed at use in the neck, nevermind a Jazz neck. I'd go with warm, rather than dark, to describe an A3 14-16k humbucker in the neck. Guitars, signal chains and tastes vary, though!
Also, it can be time consuming to work through all the variations, especially for someone who can't play if the strings aren't zingy fresh, which adds another expense.
But if you have the patience and technical skills, there's a lot of exploration you can do in uncommonly tread upon ground.
Absolutely. Though in the magnet swap case, it's not necessarily dark, though certainly not as sparkly as the typical slightly underwound PAF aimed at use in the neck, nevermind a Jazz neck. I'd go with warm, rather than dark, to describe an A3 14-16k humbucker in the neck. Guitars, signal chains and tastes vary, though!
Also, it can be time consuming to work through all the variations, especially for someone who can't play if the strings aren't zingy fresh, which adds another expense.
But if you have the patience and technical skills, there's a lot of exploration you can do in uncommonly tread upon ground.
Anficht
Member
Re: Let's say you just got a JBJ and CCJ and you have a Les Paul...
Thanks so much for all the replies.
Yes, unfortunately, I'm not good with tools and would have to pay someone to swap pickups in, hence my original question as a starting point.
I have some spare magnets, an UOA5 and a rough cast A5 lying around - might be tempted to try these in the CCJ. I know I like the 59n in the neck position of my guitars - so might just sell one of those two I just got and get another 59n or maybe a Sentient for the neck position then.
So rough cast A5 is brighter and higher output, UOA5 is a little warmer and hass less output and rough cast plus UO in combination is even warmer with even less output? Did I get that right?
Thanks so much for all the replies.
Yes, unfortunately, I'm not good with tools and would have to pay someone to swap pickups in, hence my original question as a starting point.
I have some spare magnets, an UOA5 and a rough cast A5 lying around - might be tempted to try these in the CCJ. I know I like the 59n in the neck position of my guitars - so might just sell one of those two I just got and get another 59n or maybe a Sentient for the neck position then.
So rough cast A5 is brighter and higher output, UOA5 is a little warmer and hass less output and rough cast plus UO in combination is even warmer with even less output? Did I get that right?
Re: Let's say you just got a JBJ and CCJ and you have a Les Paul...
Exactly.
Given not doing the soldering yourself, I'd suggest skipping the JB as the less likely option. Not that it can't possibly work, but Custom gives you the most flexibility with magnet swaps, which, are a much easier skill to learn, and don't have the requirement of getting a decent soldering iron. As long as you are very careful not to break the leads or coil winds, it's really not hard.
Also, probably worth mentioning that there are numerous folks who contend that roughcast A5 is THE correct magnet for the classic 80s JB sound. Great option to have on hand to tame a slightly too bright/harsh A5 pickup.
Exactly.
Given not doing the soldering yourself, I'd suggest skipping the JB as the less likely option. Not that it can't possibly work, but Custom gives you the most flexibility with magnet swaps, which, are a much easier skill to learn, and don't have the requirement of getting a decent soldering iron. As long as you are very careful not to break the leads or coil winds, it's really not hard.
Also, probably worth mentioning that there are numerous folks who contend that roughcast A5 is THE correct magnet for the classic 80s JB sound. Great option to have on hand to tame a slightly too bright/harsh A5 pickup.
Re: Let's say you just got a JBJ and CCJ and you have a Les Paul...
I don't know if either of these is a good choice for the neck. I'd sell the one you aren't going to use and get a proper neck pickup...a Jazz (if using the JB) or an Alnico II Pro if using the CC. Depends on if your LP is warm or bright sounding...
I don't know if either of these is a good choice for the neck. I'd sell the one you aren't going to use and get a proper neck pickup...a Jazz (if using the JB) or an Alnico II Pro if using the CC. Depends on if your LP is warm or bright sounding...
blueman335
Mojo's Minions
Re: Let's say you just got a JBJ and CCJ and you have a Les Paul...
Almost. The sharpest, brightest alnico is a polished A5 (which also has a lot of low end). RC A5's are the same but with a smoother high end (great for the bridge slot). UOA5's are much warmer, sounding a lot like an A2, but with slightly more treble and a little less midrange. Wherever you have an A2 that's a little too rounded or warm, try an UOA5. Likewise if a polished A5 is too bright & thin, you can try an UOA5 there too. RC magnets in general have a little smoother high end than polished, so the overall difference is subtle. UO magnets have a more complex sound with less output: their internal 'grain' is random, instead of being all in one direction and focused like an oriented magnet. The UO alnicos are A2, A3, A4, and UOA5. There's also an A1 magnet (I assume unoriented), but I've never seen it cut into guitar PU magnet sizes. I'd like to try it.
Almost. The sharpest, brightest alnico is a polished A5 (which also has a lot of low end). RC A5's are the same but with a smoother high end (great for the bridge slot). UOA5's are much warmer, sounding a lot like an A2, but with slightly more treble and a little less midrange. Wherever you have an A2 that's a little too rounded or warm, try an UOA5. Likewise if a polished A5 is too bright & thin, you can try an UOA5 there too. RC magnets in general have a little smoother high end than polished, so the overall difference is subtle. UO magnets have a more complex sound with less output: their internal 'grain' is random, instead of being all in one direction and focused like an oriented magnet. The UO alnicos are A2, A3, A4, and UOA5. There's also an A1 magnet (I assume unoriented), but I've never seen it cut into guitar PU magnet sizes. I'd like to try it.