Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

[WITH FULL DISTORTION]

****ing Hails Guys
how are yah!??!?
Hey im doing a custom guitar with Inferno Guitars australia, since we are endorses and i have my specs for my Inferno Distortion V

i would like to know if the neck specs will have any kinda of incompatibility with the rest of the guitar. specially the bridge. do i need to order a wider bridge or a different kind of bridge other than a lES PAUL/SG/v STYLE TUNE O MATIC bridge with tailpiece?
whats the differenc between a tailpiece and a stop tailpiece??

Here are the Specs
THANKS IN ADVANCE.
PS - IT WILL FEATURE A SET OF BLACKOUTS ahahahahah !!!!

JP - INFERNO DISTORTION V​

Neck Options
Neck Wood - Mahogany .
Neck Finish/Colour – SNOW WHITE
Neck Construction - Neck Through Body.
Neck Shape Modern(back contour) - C shape,in other worlds, the same SHAPE as the Peavey Wolfgang Guitar.(Wolfgang 1st Fret - .815" 12th Fret - .940")(pleasencheck warmoth page for more details)
Headstock Style - Dimebag Horned one.pretty angles backwards 13°
Headstock and neck in one piece. If possible. Inferno Logo on the headstock.
THE ALL SEYING EYE on the top of the headstock.
Scale Length - 25'
Scale Radius - 7-1/4" Vintage Fender style.
Fretboard Wood - Ebony
Nut Width - 1-3/4" (44.45mm)
Nut Material - Bone or Graphite.
Frets - 22
Fret Sizes - Dunlop medium Jumbo - model 6105 or 6230.
Tuners 3 Left, 3 Right.
Fretboard Inlays –Zodiackal Signs from 1st to 12th Frets. As Follows -



Body Options -
Body Colour – SNOW WHITE
Body Wood - Mahogany TWO PIECES.
Pickguard in White.Gibson Style. -
Body Shape. Gibson Flying V Style.
Controls - 1 tone, 1 Volume - 3 Way Toggle Switch. Jack on top of the body/pickguard.

 

[MojoMonster]

Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

i would like to know if the neck specs will have any kinda of incompatibility with the rest of the guitar. specially the bridge. do i need to order a wider bridge or a different kind of bridge other than a lES PAUL/SG/v STYLE TUNE O MATIC bridge with tailpiece?
whats the differenc between a tailpiece and a stop tailpiece??

A Les Paul with a TOM bridge has a tailpiece.
Most PRS hardtails use an all-in-one, tailpiece and bridge.
This as opposed to this.


No, you won't need a wider bridge based on what you put down here.
That will be one heck of a baseball bat neck, tho, so I hope you have large hands.
Personally, I'd go with a 10-16" compound radius instead of the 7.5" listed.
Flatter fingerboard is better for rock guitar playing.
Oh, and get stainless steel frets. They last forever.
And have you played a 25" scale guitar before?
PRS and Carvin use that scale for most of their guitars, so if you're used to a Les Paul or a Strat it might feel a little different.

And I saw no mention of flames anywhere.
I mean what's the point of getting an Inferno guitar without flames on it?


Good luck with the build, man.
MM

 

[NUNOSLASH]

Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

Dimebag style headstock???

NO MAN!!! YOU HAVE TIME!!!

 

[BluesGuyJ]

Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

I dont mean to sound stupid, but exactly what does the radius entail?

 

[KeeperOS]

Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

^ How flat or contoured the fingerboard will be.
Flatter is better for lead playing (particularly string bending) while rounder is better for chording and seriously man, unless you've actually tried the 7.5" radius (that's what the VINTAGE Fender Stratocasters/Telecasters have) I'd really check twice to see if that's what you'd want.

Personally I'd go with what MojoMaster said, a 10-16 compound radius.
That means that on the lower frets (closer to the headstock) it'll be a 10" radius, just like all contemporary standard Fender Stratocasters and as you move further up the fretboard (closer to the bridge) it will go flatter which is fine since you're more likely to play lead (a solo) over there than play any cords.

Rest of it sounds fine except that this is a REALLY THICK neck you've got there and also, the EVH Wolfgang doesn't exactly have an ordinary C shape. What it has is actually an asymmetric shape which means that it is chubbier on the bass side and thinner on the treble side.
A very comfortable profile indeed!!!

 

[WITH FULL DISTORTION]

Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

Holy **** Guys. Top Class info i got Here
i kinda never played those vintage necks before, nor a compound radius.
i played a Peavey Wolfgang and i liked it, but i think that fretboard is flat . NO!?!?

 

[WITH FULL DISTORTION]

Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

A Les Paul with a TOM bridge has a tailpiece.
Most PRS hardtails use an all-in-one, tailpiece and bridge.
This as opposed to this.


No, you won't need a wider bridge based on what you put down here.
That will be one heck of a baseball bat neck, tho, so I hope you have large hands.Hails Man. ahahah Yeah i have large hands.
Personally, I'd go with a 10-16" compound radius instead of the 7.5" listed.
Flatter fingerboard is better for rock guitar playing. - I used to play some F# kinda Chords, in a Blackmetal way. speed picking, and that feels nice with a rounder fretboard. What is the rounder i can go without any prejudice to the RADIUS X BRIDGE EQUATION?!!?

Oh, and get stainless steel frets. They last forever.
And have you played a 25" scale guitar before?I never played a 25 one. but 25,5, most ibanez and fender right? feels a little bit weird WHERE the Bridge is installed. i cant play right with my right hand. not sure how to explain.
its Like. I love exactly where my Charvel's bridge is,24,75' scale length. Its 100% perfect confortable to pick attack with my right hand. only thing is that the strings arent tighter at all. im using thicker 012 from daddario and they still need to be tighter for my tastes.. and now im kinda developing a new of of playing, pciking, as much as i can, upstrokes instead of downstrokes. If i could have a scale length where my strings would be tighter like the one in my USsa american standard(i think its a 25,5. Does a 27,75' scale length exists? which brand and model guitars uses it?). i do like the Nut width of those Ibanez RG 570 and i had a S1220wnf prestige that had one of the most wider nuts . and i feel good with it.
PRS and Carvin use that scale for most of their guitars, so if you're used to a Les Paul or a Strat it might feel a little different. Les pauls are 24,75 right?

And I saw no mention of flames anywhere.AHAHAH Theres FLAMES on the headstock. Q SILVER FLAMES.

I mean what's the point of getting an Inferno guitar without flames on it?


Good luck with the build, man.
MM

****ing Hails and thanks MOJO

 

[WITH FULL DISTORTION]

Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

KEEPEROS ,can you provide the specific neck infos on the Wolfgang ?!?!?
JP

 

[MojoMonster]

Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

****ing Hails and thanks MOJO

Hey, any time.

Hails Man. ahahah Yeah i have large hands.

Then you are definitely good to go.

And in terms of the neck profile, check here.
Click on the right hand menu item "Back Contours".
That'll help explain the differences.
The largest are the "Boat" and the "Fat".
The "Wolfgang" is similar to what Eddie has on his guitars.

Check out the other menu links, there's some good info there.

I used to play some F# kinda Chords, in a Blackmetal way. speed picking, and that feels nice with a rounder fretboard. What is the rounder i can go without any prejudice to the RADIUS X BRIDGE EQUATION?!!?

With a compound radius fretboard, if you're playing in the first position... frets 1, 2 and 3, the "roundness" of the radius will fit that area.
As you move higher up the neck the roundness flattens out so you can bend notes easier... it starts to feel more like a classical guitar neck... those typically have a 20" radius.
And since this thing is being custom made, they can do this for you pretty easily.
So, you could go from a 7.5" radius (old-school, vintage Stratocaster) to a 12" radius (which is closer to the typical Les Paul radius) as you get closer to the 22nd fret.
If you like that "round" modern Stratocaster neck, those start at 9.5".
So you could go 9.5" to 12" pretty easily and that would allow comfortable playing at all positions.

If i could have a scale length where my strings would be tighter like the one in my USsa american standard(i think its a 25,5. Does a 27,75' scale length exists? which brand and model guitars uses it?).

Then you definitely want the 25.5" scale and not the 25" scale.
The higher the scale length, the tighter the strings feel (because they are tighter).
And the next scale up are Baritone guitars... 27" to 30".
The only one I ever played just felt weird.
But don't let that stop you.

Les pauls are 24,75 right?

That is correct, sir.

So what about the *flames*???


MM

 

[WITH FULL DISTORTION]

Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

HAILS MOJO. I did all my research through that WARMOTH site. Q: )
But, as you may know, this stuff, when you are unexperienced as i am , is so ****ign Abstract that numbers doesnt translate or make you feel the real deal when you dont have a clue on how one of those necks feels.
i played a wolfgang here. i LOVED the back contour. Totally AWESOME.
the nut width was a little bit short , and the scale, if i rememeber correctly, a little bit Flat no!!??!

A note about the 25'5 scales. i hate those ibanez . even on my fender, theres some musics i cant properly pick attack some riffs cause the bridge is so ****ing near the end of the body. its not like my charvel
thats the problem for me with the 25'5 scales
a 25, 1/2 will fix it?
THANKS again
JP

 

[JB_From_Hell]

Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

Considering all the low tunings you use, you might like a longer scale, like 26.5" or 27". It is certainly not necessary, as you know you can tune any guitar to whatever you want, but they will sound a little more clear and crisp with a longer neck.

 

[WITH FULL DISTORTION]

Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

For sure man. but the longer the scale, the more backwards the bridge is going to be
right?

 

[WITH FULL DISTORTION]

Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

i had a schecter demon 7 . i loved the sound, but i couldnt get used to the 7 string.. plus, the bridge was so backwards, that i felt unconfortable. i couldt play most of the songs . Q: /
i dont know if you guys understand what i mean
Q:/
i dont think so.

 

[JB_From_Hell]

Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

For sure man. but the longer the scale, the more backwards the bridge is going to be
right?

Not necessarily. I understand what you mean, that you don't want it to be like a bass, with the bridge mounted way back.

Do a google search for a Yamaha AES guitar, and the AES Drop 6, and compare the bridge locations. (The Drop 6 has a 26.5" scale)

 

[KeeperOS]

Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

KEEPEROS ,can you provide the specific neck infos on the Wolfgang ?!?!?
JP

Sure.
The Wolfgang has, like you noticed, a narrow nut, 1-5/8". You could easily go with a 1-11/16" which is a little wider. It also has a 15" radius which is a REALLY flat radius all-around. As for the back contour, this picture explains how it is the best:

.
The line that reads "Standard" is how an ordinary "C" back contour is like while the gray area shows how the wolfgang back contour is like, chubbier on the bass side, thinner on the treble side. REALLY comfortable all over

Also, about the radius, again, a compound radius will be a really good solution.
The ONLY downside to it is that it makes setups a BIT trickier since the bridge's radius will have to be a little flatter as well but that's not THAT big a deal really.

Now about scale length. Fenders and Charvels have 25,5" (or, 25-1/2, it's the same thing) whereas Carvins or PRSs have 25. Gibsons are at 24,75".
You could go with either 25 or 25,5 but 25.5 would be relatively easier than the 25 for downtuning while it will also be a little stiffer but not THAT much compared to the 25. Really just go and play a bunch of both and see which feels the best.

You also said that Ibanez didn't feel as comfortable. Unless you played a baritone then they have the same scale length as your Charvel, their differences are that they have a LOT wider fingerboard, lower action and wider nut than a Charvel which means that you're more of a classic Strat guy when it comes to neck specs. Just steer clear of uber-shredder specs and you should be alright

 

[MojoMonster]

Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

HAILS MOJO. I did all my research through that WARMOTH site. Q: )
But, as you may know, this stuff, when you are unexperienced as i am , is so ****ign Abstract that numbers doesnt translate or make you feel the real deal when you dont have a clue on how one of those necks feels.
i played a wolfgang here. i LOVED the back contour. Totally AWESOME.
the nut width was a little bit short , and the scale, if i rememeber correctly, a little bit Flat no!!??!

Not sure what you mean about flat, but yes, putting the neck in your hand is the only way you'll know for sure.
Hell, I remember reading something recently about Ibanez making a signature guitar for a Japanese guitar player where they brought him in to the workshop to help sand down the neck based on his grip.

A note about the 25'5 scales. i hate those ibanez . even on my fender, theres some musics i cant properly pick attack some riffs cause the bridge is so ****ing near the end of the body. its not like my charvel
thats the problem for me with the 25'5 scales
a 25, 1/2 will fix it?
THANKS again
JP

That isn't the scale length so much as the body design.
I mean, you're only talking about the difference of about 3/4 of an inch between the Gibson 24.75" and the Fender 25.5" scales.

With a V shaped body, in general, you should have plenty of space above and behind the bridge to rest your hand.
Have you played on many V's?
They're not all shaped like the Gibson Flying V.

MM

 

[WITH FULL DISTORTION]

Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

Sure.
The Wolfgang has, like you noticed, a narrow nut, 1-5/8". You could easily go with a 1-11/16" which is a little wider. It also has a 15" radius which is a REALLY flat radius all-around. As for the back contour, this picture explains how it is the best:

.
The line that reads "Standard" is how an ordinary "C" back contour is like while the gray area shows how the wolfgang back contour is like, chubbier on the bass side, thinner on the treble side. REALLY comfortable all over

Also, about the radius, again, a compound radius will be a really good solution.
The ONLY downside to it is that it makes setups a BIT trickier since the bridge's radius will have to be a little flatter as well but that's not THAT big a deal really.

Now about scale length. Fenders and Charvels have 25,5" (or, 25-1/2, it's the same thing) whereas Carvins or PRSs have 25. Gibsons are at 24,75".
You could go with either 25 or 25,5 but 25.5 would be relatively easier than the 25 for downtuning while it will also be a little stiffer but not THAT much compared to the 25. Really just go and play a bunch of both and see which feels the best.

hAILS man. THANKS FOR THE INPUT. It helped a lot.
I loved the ibanez NUT WIDTH. i like it LARGE. not narrowed. ahahaa But i disagree something about the distance the bridge is installed ont those 25'5 ibanez. both loyd rose and vintage tremolo. maybe its the LOW profile that i didnt like.
SO, FOR me, Wolfgang neck back Contour, Wide Ibanez Nut Width, 25' scale length, or maybe the 25'5 and.... the great enigma, since the guiyar shops here in my city doesnt have good guitars, or the sellers dont even know the exact model, specs of the guitar they are selling. Q: (, The fretboard radius.
i know i like Medium Jumbo Frets.
What would be a Intermediate measure between that vintage rounder fretboard radius and a Non Flat but not so rounder that can bring me problems with the bridge !?!?!?
THANKS
JP



You also said that Ibanez didn't feel as comfortable. Unless you played a baritone then they have the same scale length as your Charvel, their differences are that they have a LOT wider fingerboard, lower action and wider nut than a Charvel which means that you're more of a classic Strat guy when it comes to neck specs. Just steer clear of uber-shredder specs and you should be alright

MORE OR LESS Something like that with ibanez.

 

[WITH FULL DISTORTION]

Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

hails Mojo, i dont have that much experience iwth a lot of V's
i had one jackson V. it was ok, and a epiphone v, it was awesome, but with a real POOR quality.

 

[WITH FULL DISTORTION]

Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

Baybe, its the low profile floyd roses.
Q:/

 

[pinto79]

Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

If you're using a Tune-O-Matic type bridge, You're best to go with a 12" radius on the fretboard as there are limited choices for radius adjustable TOMs. The Majority of them are set at 12".

Use F-Spaced pickups and you shouldn't have any issues with spacing.