Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

Pinto, how do rounder do you think i can go without have to concern about those flatness of the bridge saddles on a TOM bridge X the fretboard roundeness OR not. !?!?
Heres the warmoth fretboard radius chart .
http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/images/necks/radius_chart.gif

Do you think i can go with a TOM, in my flying V custom, with a 9-1/2 ' Radius, And the 25'5 scale length plus the Nut Width - 1-3/4" (44.45mm) Without any problems?
JP
 
Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

JOLLY said:
Why not just buy a Gibson Flying V? Are you just wanting something with a different headstock, inlays, etc....?
Click to expand...

Hails Jolly. i just have here with me 500 USD. and ill get a totally Customized FLYING V. i cant afford a Gibson Flying V. do you think i could get a used one in good condition(without the pickups to make it cheaper cause i would change them anyways) for that price??

JP
 
Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

KeeperOS said:
.

You also said that Ibanez didn't feel as comfortable. Unless you played a baritone then they have the same scale length as your Charvel, their differences are that they have a LOT wider fingerboard, lower action and wider nut than a Charvel which means that you're more of a classic Strat guy when it comes to neck specs. Just steer clear of uber-shredder specs and you should be alright :)
Click to expand...

This is wholly incorrect, as his Charvel is not a recent San Dimas "reissue" but a 1989 toothpaste logo Fusion Deluxe, the name Fusion is only applied to Jackson /Charvels with a dinky body and a 24.75" scale ;)

BTW the nut width is also 1 11/16 on his Charvel as well as on recent CHarvels and all production Jacksons, and has been since, ehm, lemme think... 1986? :laugh2: Floyd Nut size R4, and the action on Davey`s was well under 1mm at the 12th fret after I set it up, .75mm high e and .85 low E IIRC. The butt width of a modern Ibanez and his Charvel is in both cases 2 1/4 ". The reason the Ibanez generally feels flatter and wider lies solely in the neck profile and flatter fretboard radius.

pinto79 said:
If you're using a Tune-O-Matic type bridge, You're best to go with a 12" radius on the fretboard as there are limited choices for radius adjustable TOMs. The Majority of them are set at 12".

Use F-Spaced pickups and you shouldn't have any issues with spacing.
Click to expand...

But considering that you should be notching the saddles by hand anyway when building a new guitar this kind of makes no difference at all. It´s the same as people building guitars with 10" fretboard radii because they don´t know that the saddles of a Floyd can be ground or shimmed.

If a person doesn´t already know this, the I´d go to hell before letting them build me a guitar. Which is the case here, he isn´t buying Warmoth parts but having a custom axe built. Virtually any combination of specs can be made to function just fine when a proper luthier is applied instead of Joe Schmoe and his tub of Elbow Grease... Whether or not they´ll sound good is of course a different issue;)

That said, I would also go with a 24.75" or 25" scale after what I´ve read here, and a 12" fretboard radius is pretty exactly the middle ground between the shredder neck of your Charvel Fusion or an Ibeenhad and a modern strat radius. Or of course a compound radius, Id definitely start at a 10" radius and move up to either a 12" or a 16", depending on whether you prefer teh higher registers of your Fusion /an Ibanez or those of a Les paul or SG..
 
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Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

Zerberus said:
This is wholly incorrect, as his Charvel is not a recent San Dimas "reissue" but a 1989 toothpaste logo Fusion Deluxe, the name Fusion is only applied to Jackson /Charvels with a dinky body and a 24.75" scale ;)
Click to expand...
Apologies, I didn't know exactly which model Charvel he had.
Man, listen to Zerb here, he sure knows his Charvels and Jacksons :cool:

BTW the nut width is also 1 11/16 on his Charvel as well as on recent CHarvels and all production Jacksons, and has been since, ehm, lemme think... 1986? :laugh2: Floyd Nut size R4, and the action on Davey`s was well under 1mm at the 12th fret after I set it up, .75mm high e and .85 low E IIRC. The butt width of a modern Ibanez and his Charvel is in both cases 2 1/4 ". The reason the Ibanez generally feels flatter and wider lies solely in the neck profile and flatter fretboard radius.
Click to expand...
Again, I was thinking of string spacing, both have 1-11/16 but IIRC the Ibanezs have a wider string spacing, I could be wrong though.
As for the width, yeah, it is possible they felt wider due to the contour and flat radius.

So, I guess what you probably need is 1-11/16" with a wide string spacing nut (that'll go nicely with the F-spaced pickups and bridge).
Now, as for a radius, like the guys said, 12" is EXACTLY the middle of the road.
If you'd want to have a straight radius that would be it.
If on the other hand you'd like to go to a compound radius then you could decide what would be the best for you. Personally I think that a 10" - 12" would be mostly fine without it being extreme either.

Man, if there's a shop there that has any Jackson Dinkys or Soloists, these guitars have compound radii, you could go and check a couple and see how you like them. Ask them though which year the guitars you played are cause the radii changed these past 2-3 years (used to be 10-14 for Dinkys IIRC, now they're all 12-16).
 
Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

Zerberus said:
This is wholly incorrect, as his Charvel is not a recent San Dimas "reissue" but a 1989 toothpaste logo Fusion Deluxe, the name Fusion is only applied to Jackson /Charvels with a dinky body and a 24.75" scale ;)

BTW the nut width is also 1 11/16 on his Charvel as well as on recent CHarvels and all production Jacksons, and has been since, ehm, lemme think... 1986? :laugh2: Floyd Nut size R4, and the action on Davey`s was well under 1mm at the 12th fret after I set it up, .75mm high e and .85 low E IIRC. The butt width of a modern Ibanez and his Charvel is in both cases 2 1/4 ". The reason the Ibanez generally feels flatter and wider lies solely in the neck profile and flatter fretboard radius.

****ing Hails Man. Thanks for the UNHOLY INput. ahahahaha
i would like to know how close the charvel back contour is from a modern c shape?!?! my fender has a bolder and rounder neck than the one in the charvel for sure.




But considering that you should be notching the saddles by hand anyway when building a new guitar this kind of makes no difference at all. It´s the same as people building guitars with 10" fretboard radii because they don´t know that the saddles of a Floyd can be ground or shimmed.

If a person doesn´t already know this, the I´d go to hell before letting them build me a guitar. Which is the case here, he isn´t buying Warmoth parts but having a custom axe built. Virtually any combination of specs can be made to function just fine when a proper luthier is applied instead of Joe Schmoe and his tub of Elbow Grease... Whether or not they´ll sound good is of course a different issue;)

That said, I would also go with a 24.75" or 25" scale after what I´ve read here, and a 12" fretboard radius is pretty exactly the middle ground between the shredder neck of your Charvel Fusion or an Ibeenhad and a modern strat radius. Or of course a compound radius, Id definitely start at a 10" radius and move up to either a 12" or a 16", depending on whether you prefer teh higher registers of your Fusion /an Ibanez or those of a Les paul or SG..
Click to expand...
I preffer the higer register of an Ibanez neck in this case.

So, if i decided onn a 9-1/2' will it cause me any troubles ? or even a 10' ?

A 24,75 scale for DOWNTUNING Madness like C standard or B standard is out of question. my charvel is , sometimes, being so ****ing flabby on the low e. still using 0.12 gauge. the thicker ones from daddario.

THANKS AGAIN
JP
 
Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

ahahah ****ing hails keeperos. the problem is that i kinda live in a ****ING CAVE.
theres nothign decent around. or if i have, its a frankenstein guitar, or ill have no ****ing info on it
its a big ****ign MESS.
This year will have to be THE ****ING YEAR. otherwise ill really try to ask for help worldwide cause ill not be able to stay in brazil at all .
q:/
 
Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

Hey man, I feel you, it took me a LONG time to find actually decent shops here too.

Anyway, if you say you liked the upper register of an Ibanez then that's what you want.

So, my advice, go with a compound radius, 10"-16". It'll be comfortable on those 4-5 first frets where all you do is play power chords but further up it'll flatten like an Ibanez.

As for scale, I think we're going back to your original 25", that's what is stiffer than the Charvel (for down tuning) but still the bridge won't be as far back as the 25.5".
 
Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

OK. ill wait for the Inferno Guitars response and then, if the answer wasn't satifying myself, ill propose it.
Let me take note of all infos.
i have measured my charvel and fender necks. they seem to mark 43MM on nut width Each one
and my acoustic(which i feel 100% confortable. it was my first instrument at all) is almost 49mm
Q:p


Compound Radius 10 - 16", and Scale Length Of 25".
If Compund Radius is not possible.. Then, can i go with a 10"?
 
Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

You could go with a 10", that's what your Fender most probably has but the usual middle-of-the-road is 12" which is not much flatter than a 10" but still flat enough for comfortable bends.

Yeah, 43mm is 1-11/16", now if you'd want sth even wider there's the super wide 1-7/8" (about 47mm) but that sounds a little TOO wide to me so check twice to see for sure if that's what you'd want.
 
Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

hahah no no, 47 is too much
crap. let me see if i understood it WRONG.
10 is less rounder or less flatter than 12?
 
Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

the higher the radius number, the flatter it is. so 10 is rounder than 12.

the fretboard is like a slice of a big circle - so the bigger the radius distance of the circle, the flatter the slice will be, since the circle will be bigger.
 
Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

Hails Guys, while i was searching for a 3+3 set of tuners , a Tailpiece and a Bridge i came across this little doubt:

I WROTE :
Hi Guys. How are yah!?!?
im looking for a Gotoh Bridge complete with studs and a gotoh tailpiece.
Both in Black Or Chrome
And also a set of 3 X 3 Tuners. also in black or Chrome. i preffer everything in black. but if you dont have any of the itens all black, it can be all chrome.

do you have them? how much it costs?
JP

THe salesman replied :
Hello JP, for which make and model instrument do you need these parts for? Regards, WD sales

I wrote Back with the same infos i gave here about the guitar .


And he wrote me this back :

Greetings JP, Here are the available sets that we carry for your application:

LPCM02/CH ($116.50 IN CHROME)
 LPBS02/BLK ($132.50 IN BLACK)

 These are Tonepros products with locking set screws for both bridge and tailpiece. We are limited on stock Gotoh parts for your application. As for tuners, please visit www.wdmusic.com to view the plethora of models we carry. Regards, WD Sales


I refused because i didnt want that bridge. i know its a high quality one, but im kinda in a budget.


 I asked for Gotoh or schaller and got this reply
:
Hello JP, we don’t stock Schaller. The Gotoh sets we carry complete with inserts for both bridge and tailpiece mounting studs are metric only.(WHAT THA ****IGN IS THIS?) If you build to these specs then you can use them no problem. Either set will be $36.00. These sets are typical dimensionally of Epiphone, not Gibson. Regards, WD sales


HAILS AND THANKS IN advance
JP
 
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Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

The metric system is what's used in almost the entire world except the USA (centimeters instead of inches) and in this case refers to different dimensions of certain hardware, most notably the various bridges and sometimes pots/knobs.

Usually guitars made in Asia (like Epiphone) use hardware built around the metric system while guitars made in the USA (Gibson) the US customary system, a variant of the imperial system.

In essence this means that hardware built for one kind will not (properly) fit in a guitar of the other kind (well, not with out some modification anyway).

Since it'll be a completely custom guitar though I don't see the problem with going either way, it's not as if the body will be drilled for one kind while you'll be getting another.

That's more of a problem if you're upgrading an already built guitar.
 
Re: Luthier Help. Doubt about Specs compatibility.

Hum, excellent. i thought it was something like "no way you cant use it at all etc."
thanks man
i completely understand
 
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