Maple fretboards, more difficult to refret?
- Thread starter coachc55
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metalchurch79
New member
Re: Maple fretboards, more difficult to refret?
I would say slightly easier in the respect that maple is harder than rosewood, therefore its less likely to chip when pulling the old frets.
I would say slightly easier in the respect that maple is harder than rosewood, therefore its less likely to chip when pulling the old frets.
PFDarkside
of the Forum
Re: Maple fretboards, more difficult to refret?
It’s the finish on maple fretboards that causes the difficulty. You have to be careful to not chip it up around the frets.
It’s the finish on maple fretboards that causes the difficulty. You have to be careful to not chip it up around the frets.
Jeff_H
Dean Hardtail Fanologist
Re: Maple fretboards, more difficult to refret?
On nitro finished guitars it needs to be done more carefully, since the nitro is sprayed on the maple fretboard as well. Poly finished guitars as well, although poly is more durable. Either way, you just don't wasn't to chip up the finish on the fretboard. I think that's where the thought that maple is harder comes from.
On nitro finished guitars it needs to be done more carefully, since the nitro is sprayed on the maple fretboard as well. Poly finished guitars as well, although poly is more durable. Either way, you just don't wasn't to chip up the finish on the fretboard. I think that's where the thought that maple is harder comes from.
kramersteen
PowerMetalRaph
Re: Maple fretboards, more difficult to refret?
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Performing fellatio on oneself, aka autofelatio.
Definition
Garking
Performing fellatio on oneself, aka autofelatio.
ItsaBass
New member
Re: Maple fretboards, more difficult to refret?
The difficulty with re-frets on maple boards lies in the fact that the fretboard is harder to repair/clean up once the frets are out. The damage that typically occurs when pulling frets looks much worse, and is harder to fix, since there is finish on the board. You have to be *extremely* careful with the fretboard and the finish when pulling the frets...and the cheater trick of heating the frets with a soldering iron is dangerous too, as this can start melting the finish. Also, old Fender style (and Fender American reissue style, usually) is to install the frets on the bare wood, bevel the edges, spray the lacquer, then dress the frets. As such, the frets are sealed in with finish, and that has to be cleanly cut away first. (This is also why old Fenders from the '50's often have the famous green fret tarnish that has worked its way under the finish of the fretboard.)
The Fender company did not originally intend for refrets to happen on their guitars. They intended for players to play frets till they wore out, then order a replacement neck. People have learned how to do it over the years, but it was definitely not part of the initial design.
My fret guy gets them out very cleanly, glues any chips back, then wet sands and re-polishes the fretboard. No re-spray required unless you really damage the finish badly pulling the frets out.
The difficulty with re-frets on maple boards lies in the fact that the fretboard is harder to repair/clean up once the frets are out. The damage that typically occurs when pulling frets looks much worse, and is harder to fix, since there is finish on the board. You have to be *extremely* careful with the fretboard and the finish when pulling the frets...and the cheater trick of heating the frets with a soldering iron is dangerous too, as this can start melting the finish. Also, old Fender style (and Fender American reissue style, usually) is to install the frets on the bare wood, bevel the edges, spray the lacquer, then dress the frets. As such, the frets are sealed in with finish, and that has to be cleanly cut away first. (This is also why old Fenders from the '50's often have the famous green fret tarnish that has worked its way under the finish of the fretboard.)
The Fender company did not originally intend for refrets to happen on their guitars. They intended for players to play frets till they wore out, then order a replacement neck. People have learned how to do it over the years, but it was definitely not part of the initial design.
My fret guy gets them out very cleanly, glues any chips back, then wet sands and re-polishes the fretboard. No re-spray required unless you really damage the finish badly pulling the frets out.
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