Now problem bro..I'm not the guy who had the amp shipped. I took the amp to rehearsal one day and when I got there the fuse was blown. Something happened on the way there. Bumpy ride?
I can take it to my tech. I've never worked on amps and don't want any problems.
Thanks for the reply!
Before you spend any money on a tech, install a new set of power tubes. If the problem persists after that, then take it to a tech.
+1Before you spend any money on a tech, install a new set of power tubes. If the problem persists after that, then take it to a tech.
Yeah new tube should get a rebias to work at their optimum, but biasing is a range and youll find that you can just chuck in a new set and they will work fine (as long as they are the same type of tubeOk, thanks. Will I need to bias the tubes?
Ok, thanks. Will I need to bias the tubes?
+1
Yeah new tube should get a rebias to work at their optimum, but biasing is a range and youll find that you can just chuck in a new set and they will work fine (as long as they are the same type of tube)
Yes, always check the bias on power tubes. Pre amp tubes don't have a bias but you need to set proper voltage in the power section for optimal performance and tube life.
Ok, thanks!While it's true that power tubes need to be properly biased to work and last their best, the amp should still work (but maybe not sound its best) if you just swap tubes without a rebias. The idea here is to get through your gig or rehearsal (or test the amp) and then have your tech bias it later.
By the way.
Which tubes would you guys say would work better to get a fat, thick metal tone?
http://www.thetubestore.com/Tubes/EL34-6CA7-Tube-Types/JJ-6CA7
or
http://www.thetubestore.com/Tubes/EL34-6CA7-Tube-Types/JJ-E34L-EL34
Generally speaking, 6CA7s tend to be 'fatter' sounding than EL-34s. I don't have a ton of experience with them, so I can't really go into more detail than that.