Maximum movement on a Strat style trem

Inflames626

New member
Hey guys,
Considering trying out a vintage Strat after years of playing with a FR. I get about a perfect 4th of upward movement out of most of my Floyds.

I've been watching some YouTube videos to see how they work. How much upward movement can I expect out of a well set up floating Strat and, if I set the bridge to tilt so that I have more upward movement, will this decrease the amount of downward movement I have?

The idea is tilting the bridge will put one end closer or further from the body of the guitar. Making more room for pull ups would put the front of the bridge closer to the pickguard and reduce downward movement before the strings go slack.

I was hoping for maybe a minor 3rd worth of movement in both directions.

Thanks.
 
Re: Maximum movement on a Strat style trem

On a floating vintage tremolo it's easy to setup the following:

E -> F
B -> Db
G -> Bb

I have also set it up for a perfect forth on the G, but then the other strings are not exact (plus the trem is starting to get to a pretty extreme angle and action is affected)
 
Re: Maximum movement on a Strat style trem

Exactly what PFDardside said! I like the tension of 3 fender brand black springs fanned out from the middle three of the claw to the outer 2 holes and 1 in the middle of the block. Many like Vintage springs but I find them a little stiff. My 2 cents on springs.
Steve Buffington.
p.s. look out for angled claw comments and/or disagreements. either way works fine.
 
Re: Maximum movement on a Strat style trem

Does increasing the upward movement decrease the downward movement?

Sure does. The more angle you give for upward pull ups the less possible distance you may travel downwards for dives. That's why vintage trems might seem like a downgrade to some diehard FR longtime users.
 
Re: Maximum movement on a Strat style trem

Well, I've noticed that vintage trems tend to flutter like Floyds, they're considerably cheaper, and I don't really ever pull my Floyd up all the way (string tension, it's kind of energy and time consuming when you're playing fast, etc).

I usually do the G string third fret pull up thing, and I get a little more movement upward by depressing the bar slightly before the pull up.

I've been wondering if I really need an FR, especially when I just want to flutter some.

Also FR's tend to require flatter necks and I've noticed the D and G strings on my barre chords often don't ring out. I was hoping a smaller fretboard radius would raise the middle of the neck and fix that.
 
Re: Maximum movement on a Strat style trem

Also FR's tend to require flatter necks and I've noticed the D and G strings on my barre chords often don't ring out. I was hoping a smaller fretboard radius would raise the middle of the neck and fix that.

With shims, you may convert a 12" radius floyd bridge's saddles to 10". It is very easy. 10" on a typical 9.5" strat neck won't be even an issue.
 
Re: Maximum movement on a Strat style trem

Greekdude, I was thinking about trying 7.5"-15" or so, compound radius, which would require nut work.
 
Re: Maximum movement on a Strat style trem

FR told me that if I wanted to go 7.5"-15 or 16" it would take quite a bit of difficult modification at the nut to handle the 7.5" part.
 
Re: Maximum movement on a Strat style trem

FR told me that if I wanted to go 7.5"-15 or 16" it would take quite a bit of difficult modification at the nut to handle the 7.5" part.

That's very much likely. 7.5" is much rounder than typical 12" locking nut. So the action height will not be uniform across the fretboard as we move from nut to bridge. But IMHO compound necks while a very nice idea, maybe pose such technical intermediate problems.
 
Re: Maximum movement on a Strat style trem

As far downward bend, my J.Beck strat has a modified block where the bottom of the block closest to the bottom of the guitar, let's call it the "back route" for now as I am sure it has a "real" name, is cut off and the cut starts at mid block and goes about 20 degrees maybe so when you push down, the block has less metal to interfere.
As far as my other 2 strats, I put a standard Killer Brand Brass block on, no compensation on the block, just a regular rectangle of brass, and I can pull up from G to A# and even B and still have enough room to push the strings to rattle on the fretboard. It is not a real deep block, let me go measure it........ Ok, it is one and a half inches deep, w/half inch wide.
Steve Buffington
 
Back
Top