MIM Strat Upgrades

[Kais]

I have a MIM Fender Strat (white strat in the pic below). I'm looking to upgrade the nut and possibly whatever else. I already upgraded the pups and pots. The only thing I think needs upgrading is the nut to this one, is this the right size?. Also thought about upgrading the bridge and or saddles, but is it really worth it? This is the bridge and saddles I currently have..


Any advice is welcomed

 

[jake_xms3_punk]

Re: MIM Strat Upgrades

Best upgrades IME are pickups and a good quality steel sustain trem block. these are the first and often only things I upgrade on MIM strats

 

[Kais]

Re: MIM Strat Upgrades

Best upgrades IME are pickups and a good quality steel sustain trem block. these are the first and often only things I upgrade on MIM strats

supposedly my guitar has the newer gen mim steel blocks, which are a lot "beefier" than previous iterations

 

[ItsaBass]

Re: MIM Strat Upgrades

I wouldn't go with that nut. I would get the unslotted one, and have a pro install and slot it for you if you can't do it yourself. The thing is that your guitar has a 9-1/2" radius, and that nut is for 7-1/4". If you use that nut, you can lower the middle four string slots to the proper positions for your radius (it's only a slight change). However, your guitar – if it is like any MIM I've seen – has a 9-1/2" radius curved-bottomed nut slot. So if you use the nut you mentioned, you end up having to trim down that center post in order to get the nut seated. Not only is that kind of a pain in the ass to get absolutely perfect, but it means that the bottom of the nut is only contacting the bottom of the nut slot at three small areas. In all honesty, that probably isn't a problem tonally...but it still just doesn't seem right to me. It's just not how a nut is supposed to sit, by traditional standards.

You can get the unslotted blank with a 7-1/4" curved bottom, or with a flat bottom. The 7-1/4" will have to be re-radiused a little bit on the bottom to match your nut slot. The flat-bottomed blank will have to be fully radiused. The flat bottomed gives you more meat to work with, and more room for error. The curved-bottomed must be re-radiused very precisely, without taking off too much, or else the top of the nut will sit too low.

As for other mods to MIM Strats, IME the most important are to junk the whole bridge/saddle/spring/claw setup and get something well made instead. Callaham or Hipshot are my personal favorites. The next most important thing would be to get the frets leveled, crowned, rounded over, and polished. The bridge/vibrato, nut, and fretwork are the worst areas of MIM Fenders IME. Other than those areas, they're quite good.

After those most important things, I'd go for pickups (stock pots, switch, jack, etc. are usually fine unless you want to change the values or tapers), then tuners. My favorite tuners for MIM Strats are Hipshot lockers with the small oval buttons (you must order the buttons separately). However, Schaller for Fender lockers will drop right in, and they are just as good as the Hipshots (but not as good looking IMO). Also, since Hipshots are based on Schallers, you might be able to fit the ovoid Hipshot buttons onto the Schallers, as long as you use the stock Schaller button attachment screws; I haven't tried it myself, though. That said, with a nice bridge and nut, the stock tuners are really quite serviceable, and they are the last thing I would worry about upgrading.

 

[treyhaislip]

Re: MIM Strat Upgrades

Best upgrades IME are pickups and a good quality steel sustain trem block. these are the first and often only things I upgrade on MIM strats

I agree–the pickups and pots are the number one thing I would upgrade. After that I'd add a brass block and then worry about the nut and saddles.

 

[DreX]

Re: MIM Strat Upgrades

I'm glad to see you're still putting together Billy Corgan guitars!

I've replaced pot metal blocks with Callaham steel while still having identical model guitars with stock pot metal blocks. I can never tell the difference when I'm playing one or the other. I honestly forget with Strats received the steel blocks. A pickup change makes 99% of the difference, I'll give the wood 0.9% and 0.1% to the block metal type, and even then, it's not a change for the better necessarily. When I was doing closer A/B comparisons a few months ago, my impression is that the steel block of equal size to a pot metal block retained more high end in the sustain, the same high end you try to get rid of when you opt for a 250k pot instead of a 500k pot. There wasn't a change in overall voicing, you get the same sort of treble increase or decreasing treble on the amp, or swapping pot values. In any case, the block makes more of an impact if the bridge is floating, if you're using the trem arm much and lifting the bridge plate away from the body. If decked or even making some contact, the block's influence is greatly diminished.

Some people automatically suggest replacing the pots, wires and switches, but doing so will have no effect on tone or performance, after all, we're talking about delivering a tiny amount of electrons from point A to B, you don't need caps and wires that can carry five amps in an electric guitar. You should only need to replace the pots is if you don't like the spin feel. A lot of these suggestions come from the belief that vintage is always better and cost effectiveness is always bad.

I must have one of the newer MIM's with the larger sized blocks. The only thing I saw fit to replace were the pickups.

The biggest issue with MIMs is probably the fret work, if you lower the action and have it buzz at particular frets, it might be good to do a mild fret leveling with micromesh pads, which if done lightly can improve the relative heights of the frets without requiring filing and crowning.

Lastly, if you put a capo on the frist fret that and the guitar is way easier to play, the nut is probably too tall. Consider getting some feeler gauges and sand it down a little. That's the sort of detail they skimp on in some cheaper guitar factories.

 

[Kais]

Re: MIM Strat Upgrades

I wouldn't go with that nut. I would get the unslotted one, and have a pro install and slot it for you if you can't do it yourself. The thing is that your guitar has a 9-1/2" radius, and that nut is for 7-1/4". If you use that nut, you can lower the middle four string slots to the proper positions for your radius (it's only a slight change). However, your guitar – if it is like any MIM I've seen – has a 9-1/2" radius curved-bottomed nut slot. So if you use the nut you mentioned, you end up having to trim down that center post in order to get the nut seated. Not only is that kind of a pain in the ass to get absolutely perfect, but it means that the bottom of the nut is only contacting the bottom of the nut slot at three small areas. In all honesty, that probably isn't a problem tonally...but it still just doesn't seem right to me. It's just not how a nut is supposed to sit, by traditional standards.

You can get the unslotted blank with a 7-1/4" curved bottom, or with a flat bottom. The 7-1/4" will have to be re-radiused a little bit on the bottom to match your nut slot. The flat-bottomed blank will have to be fully radiused. The flat bottomed gives you more meat to work with, and more room for error. The curved-bottomed must be re-radiused very precisely, without taking off too much, or else the top of the nut will sit too low.

As for other mods to MIM Strats, IME the most important are to junk the whole bridge/saddle/spring/claw setup and get something well made instead. Callaham or Hipshot are my personal favorites. The next most important thing would be to get the frets leveled, crowned, rounded over, and polished. The bridge/vibrato, nut, and fretwork are the worst areas of MIM Fenders IME. Other than those areas, they're quite good.

After those most important things, I'd go for pickups (stock pots, switch, jack, etc. are usually fine unless you want to change the values or tapers), then tuners. My favorite tuners for MIM Strats are Hipshot lockers with the small oval buttons (you must order the buttons separately). However, Schaller for Fender lockers will drop right in, and they are just as good as the Hipshots (but not as good looking IMO). Also, since Hipshots are based on Schallers, you might be able to fit the ovoid Hipshot buttons onto the Schallers, as long as you use the stock Schaller button attachment screws; I haven't tried it myself, though. That said, with a nice bridge and nut, the stock tuners are really quite serviceable, and they are the last thing I would worry about upgrading.

informative posts like this are what keep me here. thanks for the detailed write up!

I'm glad to see you're still putting together Billy Corgan guitars!

I've replaced pot metal blocks with Callaham steel while still having identical model guitars with stock pot metal blocks. I can never tell the difference when I'm playing one or the other. I honestly forget with Strats received the steel blocks. A pickup change makes 99% of the difference, I'll give the wood 0.9% and 0.1% to the block metal type, and even then, it's not a change for the better necessarily. When I was doing closer A/B comparisons a few months ago, my impression is that the steel block of equal size to a pot metal block retained more high end in the sustain, the same high end you try to get rid of when you opt for a 250k pot instead of a 500k pot. There wasn't a change in overall voicing, you get the same sort of treble increase or decreasing treble on the amp, or swapping pot values. In any case, the block makes more of an impact if the bridge is floating, if you're using the trem arm much and lifting the bridge plate away from the body. If decked or even making some contact, the block's influence is greatly diminished.

Some people automatically suggest replacing the pots, wires and switches, but doing so will have no effect on tone or performance, after all, we're talking about delivering a tiny amount of electrons from point A to B, you don't need caps and wires that can carry five amps in an electric guitar. You should only need to replace the pots is if you don't like the spin feel. A lot of these suggestions come from the belief that vintage is always better and cost effectiveness is always bad.

I must have one of the newer MIM's with the larger sized blocks. The only thing I saw fit to replace were the pickups.

The biggest issue with MIMs is probably the fret work, if you lower the action and have it buzz at particular frets, it might be good to do a mild fret leveling with micromesh pads, which if done lightly can improve the relative heights of the frets without requiring filing and crowning.

Lastly, if you put a capo on the frist fret that and the guitar is way easier to play, the nut is probably too tall. Consider getting some feeler gauges and sand it down a little. That's the sort of detail they skimp on in some cheaper guitar factories.

Ah makes much sense. I really love Billy's strats, so this was my tribute, sort to speak.



Going to go with the tusq nut. I'll see how much a tech would charge for the custom slotted nut as per itsabass' suggestion. I wired in a fralin blend pot, so no need to upgrade other pots and ect. The frets are actually quite good, no sharp ends, no buzzing anywhere. The neck is by far my favorite, any strat I've picked up elsewhere, the necks weren't as comfortable as this one. I would like to A B another higher end strat to notice any differences. That will be very helpful

 

[kramersteen]

Re: MIM Strat Upgrades

The biggest issue with MIMs is probably the fret work, if you lower the action and have it buzz at particular frets, it might be good to do a mild fret leveling with micromesh pads, which if done lightly can improve the relative heights of the frets without requiring filing and crowning.

That is your mim not his. His might have good level frets. :sleeping:

 

[ehdwuld]

Re: MIM Strat Upgrades

I found the best upgrade for my MIM
were these

http://www.amazon.com/Fender-099-0818-100-Locking-Tuners-Chrome/dp/B000L6GD04/ref=pd_ys_sf_s_rp_a1_1_p?ie=UTF8&refRID=03VXBAV9E52VJSFFJ0YZ

only $48 right now on Amazon
and are a drop in replacement

 

[profgalen]

Re: MIM Strat Upgrades

I replaced the stock pot-metal block on my MIM with a brass block and I really can't tell the difference. However I keep the bridge decked. I also installed the above mentioned Fender Locking Tuners and think they are great. I replaced the pick-ups. I have not noticed a problem with the stock nut and the frets are fine as is. The only other thing I replaced was the pick guard. Didn't make it sound better but it looks uber cool.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Funkfingers]

Re: MIM Strat Upgrades

Wilkinson makes a nice budget replacement six screw vibrato bridge.

My MIM 1996 Tex-Mex HSS Stratocaster had already been refretted when I acquired it. Plays very nicely but can only seem to sound good for one thing at a time. One type of pickup will sound fine clean but crap for distortion. Another will rock all day but lack chime.

Next in line for testing are Fender Super 55 split coil noise-cancelling types. After that, a GFS Brian May pickguard assembly.

 

[rgand]

Re: MIM Strat Upgrades

I found the best upgrade for my MIM were these

http://www.amazon.com/Fender-099-0818-100-Locking-Tuners-Chrome/dp/B000L6GD04/ref=pd_ys_sf_s_rp_a1_1_p?ie=UTF8&refRID=03VXBAV9E52VJSFFJ0YZ

only $48 right now on Amazon
and are a drop in replacement

I got these same ones. They are good quality tuners.

 

[DreX]

Re: MIM Strat Upgrades

Tuners are rarely a cause of tuning issues, that's usually due to a damaged/poorly made nut and/or saddles. Changing out tuners is going to be a feel-good upgrade unless the ones that came stock are defective somehow.

 

[dystrust]

Re: MIM Strat Upgrades

I've replaced pot metal blocks with Callaham steel while still having identical model guitars with stock pot metal blocks. I can never tell the difference when I'm playing one or the other. I honestly forget with Strats received the steel blocks. A pickup change makes 99% of the difference, I'll give the wood 0.9% and 0.1% to the block metal type, and even then, it's not a change for the better necessarily. When I was doing closer A/B comparisons a few months ago, my impression is that the steel block of equal size to a pot metal block retained more high end in the sustain, the same high end you try to get rid of when you opt for a 250k pot instead of a 500k pot. There wasn't a change in overall voicing, you get the same sort of treble increase or decreasing treble on the amp, or swapping pot values. In any case, the block makes more of an impact if the bridge is floating, if you're using the trem arm much and lifting the bridge plate away from the body. If decked or even making some contact, the block's influence is greatly diminished.

I agree with this, but only to a point; pickups do make the biggest difference, but they're not 99%. If the trem isn't floating, don't bother replacing the block since it won't make much of a difference. As far as wood & block type, what type of pickups are you using and how much gain are you running on your amp? I've found that I can absolutely tell the difference between alder and ash or rosewood and maple fingerboards; at least with cleaner tones and lower output pickups. With something like a Hot Rails into a fully gained-out Marshall, the differences are much smaller.

Some people automatically suggest replacing the pots, wires and switches, but doing so will have no effect on tone or performance, after all, we're talking about delivering a tiny amount of electrons from point A to B, you don't need caps and wires that can carry five amps in an electric guitar. You should only need to replace the pots is if you don't like the spin feel. A lot of these suggestions come from the belief that vintage is always better and cost effectiveness is always bad.

Mostly disagree here. Replacing the wiring in a guitar is probably a waste of time, but pots, jacks, and switches are usually worth doing in a budget-oriented guitar at least for the sake of reliability. For example I couldn't say how many cheap OEM pickup switches I've had fail, but I've never had a problem with switchcraft or CRL. I've had similar experience with jacks, and budget pots are often worth a look as well. Many here are probably familiar with the pots that Epiphone used to use, and the pots in the G&L Tribute ASAT I had a few years ago were terrible.

 

[Kais]

Re: MIM Strat Upgrades

Thanks for the tips dudes. I bought this strat from siglermusic (wouldn't recommend them). So it came with fender branded locking tuners, CTS pots and switch craft input, lace sensors red silver blue, strap locks. I upgraded the nut yesterday to graph tech and it made a good difference in clarity. It was setup properly and has a very low action. The tremolo is decked, and I will not have it floating. So upgrading the block will not have a good difference for me.

I absolutely love the feel of this neck, and I regret not getting my other neck in the same shape as this one. I don't buy into the American vs Mexican debate. I pick this one up over my American one any day.

Can anyone comment on the shape of this 2012 MIM neck vs the 70's reissue I have? What was the standard shape for a typical 70's neck?

 

[dystrust]

Re: MIM Strat Upgrades

Thanks for the tips dudes. I bought this strat from siglermusic (wouldn't recommend them). So it came with fender branded locking tuners, CTS pots and switch craft input, lace sensors red silver blue, strap locks. I upgraded the nut yesterday to graph tech and it made a good difference in clarity. It was setup properly and has a very low action. The tremolo is decked, and I will not have it floating. So upgrading the block will not have a good difference for me.

I absolutely love the feel of this neck, and I regret not getting my other neck in the same shape as this one. I don't buy into the American vs Mexican debate. I pick this one up over my American one any day.

Can anyone comment on the shape of this 2012 MIM neck vs the 70's reissue I have? What was the standard shape for a typical 70's neck?

The 2012 MIM should be a C-shape, while the 70s is a U. Thickness should be at least somewhat similar, but the 70s will have a lot more shoulder.

 

[Kais]

Re: MIM Strat Upgrades

The 2012 MIM should be a C-shape, while the 70s is a U. Thickness should be at least somewhat similar, but the 70s will have a lot more shoulder.

Are any of the 2010+ MIM any other shape besides C?

Siglermusic is a Frankenstein company, no one knows what they used on my strat

 

[dystrust]

Re: MIM Strat Upgrades

Are any of the 2010+ MIM any other shape besides C?

Siglermusic is a Frankenstein company, no one knows what they used on my strat

The MIM standard series all have a back shape that Fender calls 'Modern C', and you have one of those necks on your White Strat in post #1. They use other shapes, but they're mostly for the vintage and vintage player series.

 

[GuitarStv]

Re: MIM Strat Upgrades

Mostly disagree here. Replacing the wiring in a guitar is probably a waste of time, but pots, jacks, and switches are usually worth doing in a budget-oriented guitar at least for the sake of reliability. For example I couldn't say how many cheap OEM pickup switches I've had fail, but I've never had a problem with switchcraft or CRL. I've had similar experience with jacks, and budget pots are often worth a look as well. Many here are probably familiar with the pots that Epiphone used to use, and the pots in the G&L Tribute ASAT I had a few years ago were terrible.

I think people often jump the gun on electronics replacements. It's best to wait and see IMO . . . Replacing stuff only if it causes you problems. My 2000 Epiphone dot still has the original pots and jack that came with it and they are working great. The switch died after about eight months though.