Modifying Blues Drivers?

[Driver Blues]

Just what it says on the tin, are there any popular BD-2 modifications, either simple or complex? I really like my Blues Driver, but I recently acquired another one for cheap at a antique store and want to modify it. I'm not particularly looking to fix any inherent flaws in the standard circuit, just looking for a change

 

[GuitarStv]

Check to make sure that you have the through hole BD-2 before you get excited about modifying it. For quite a while BD-2s have been made with surface mounted components which makes modding them pretty tough and a lot less fun. If you've got the through hole one though, this little excerpt is a thing that I found online back around 2003-4 (it's basically what Robert Keeley used to do with blues drivers before he started adding the little switch). I used it to mod one of my BD-2s and can confirm that it all works as described. The only problem that I ran into was that I forgot to put back the little piece of plastic that was in between the circuit board and the metal casing. Don't forget to put this in, as the circuit board will ground out and not work untill it is placed back in.

Anyway, good luck!




D3 -> Change this 1SS133 to a different (1N4002) diode for asymmetrical clipping. This adds second order harmonics. This adds to the tube type sound. I like the sound of this change.

D7 and D10 -> Change these diodes from 1SS133 to 1N4002. More second order harmonic distortion. Although the change is slight, I like it.

C1, C7, C6, C12, C13, and C15 -> Change this electrolytic capacitor to a 10uF tantalum. Tantalum capacitors sound better than electrolytic capacitors. It would be best to have a non-polarized cap here. I like these anywhere there is signal coupling at this high a value. Tantalum capacitors are easy to find in this range.

C14 -> Increase input coupling capacitor value to 0.1uF for increased bass response from your guitar.

R1, R2, R18 and R19 -> Here is some magic. Change the resistors to carbon composition. These old resistors probably have some frequency dependent component, which means that there is a capacitive element to the resistor. This is because of the spacing in the material. Add these for vibe, MOJO, and magic.

C100 -> Here is where we can affect the tone control. I prefer a little more lower-midrange and bass frequencies through the tone section. You can increase the lower frequencies by increasing the capacitor value to 0.033uF.​

 

[marcello252]

I can confirm the mods suggested are worth the try , mine is modified along these indications

 

[Chistopher]

The Galaxie mod is pretty cool. It's unfortunately proprietary so you would have to send yours in rather than DIY. It converts it so that it's distortion is purely FET which lowers the gain to about 1/2 of stock (still more than enough on tap for an OD), gets rid of the fizz at higher gain, and makes the tone control way more useful.

 

[Ascension]

Check to make sure that you have the through hole BD-2 before you get excited about modifying it. For quite a while BD-2s have been made with surface mounted components which makes modding them pretty tough and a lot less fun. If you've got the through hole one though, this little excerpt is a thing that I found online back around 2003-4 (it's basically what Robert Keeley used to do with blues drivers before he started adding the little switch). I used it to mod one of my BD-2s and can confirm that it all works as described. The only problem that I ran into was that I forgot to put back the little piece of plastic that was in between the circuit board and the metal casing. Don't forget to put this in, as the circuit board will ground out and not work untill it is placed back in.

Anyway, good luck!




D3 -> Change this 1SS133 to a different (1N4002) diode for asymmetrical clipping. This adds second order harmonics. This adds to the tube type sound. I like the sound of this change.

D7 and D10 -> Change these diodes from 1SS133 to 1N4002. More second order harmonic distortion. Although the change is slight, I like it.

C1, C7, C6, C12, C13, and C15 -> Change this electrolytic capacitor to a 10uF tantalum. Tantalum capacitors sound better than electrolytic capacitors. It would be best to have a non-polarized cap here. I like these anywhere there is signal coupling at this high a value. Tantalum capacitors are easy to find in this range.

C14 -> Increase input coupling capacitor value to 0.1uF for increased bass response from your guitar.

R1, R2, R18 and R19 -> Here is some magic. Change the resistors to carbon composition. These old resistors probably have some frequency dependent component, which means that there is a capacitive element to the resistor. This is because of the spacing in the material. Add these for vibe, MOJO, and magic.

C100 -> Here is where we can affect the tone control. I prefer a little more lower-midrange and bass frequencies through the tone section. You can increase the lower frequencies by increasing the capacitor value to 0.033uF.​

Was about to post about this also. The surface mount units are very hard to mod, as you state. Your spot on about that little piece of clear plastic between the board and case also.
On the Mods I have done the Monti Allums H2O mod on a couple of Blues Drivers and really like the feel and tone with this mod in a BD 2. https://monteallums.com/wordpress/product/boss-bd-2-bd-h2o-mod-kit/

 

[misterwhizzy]

I'll give a plus one to the Monte Allums recommendations. His instructions are clear and precise, and everything you need is included except the soldering utensils.