moving a floyd rearwards? any ideas?

[Snoogles]

so i've got all the strings intonated, but a couple of the bridge pieces are jammed right up against the fine-tuner section.
at the moment its functional, but i'd like to some how move the entire unit rearwards.
i tried emailing Floyd Rose to see if they made pivot posts with a wider diameter pivoting section, but didn't get any response

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...Wbdo3aMQe3nwo/cC/f=0/ps=50/r=0/rx=720/ry=480/

 

[King IzzO)))]

Re: moving a floyd rearwards? any ideas?

I think the only thing you can do is dowel the holes and drill new ones. Is this on a Jackson? I was just reading that the posts are ~1/16th closer to the neck on stock Jackson trems than they need to be for a FR.

 

[jmh151]

Re: moving a floyd rearwards? any ideas?

you really cannot, unless you dowl, plug and redrill. Some licensed Jackson Floyds are based off the Schaller Floyd, which Jackson used for a while, and they routed 1 1/6" closer to the nut.

The easier solution is to get a Schaller Floyd from Stew Mac (they just dropped in price to around $150), or search Ebay for a Jackson JT 590 trem, which is a Schaller Floyd stamped Jackson

 

[Ayrton]

Re: moving a floyd rearwards? any ideas?

If it intonates, I say leave it alone.

 

[darthphineas]

Re: moving a floyd rearwards? any ideas?

If it intonates, I say leave it alone.

agreed.


other finer points could be the setup. the bow of the neck, the action, all that stuff... are they dead on. tweak a bit here and there can change the intonation and might be part of why it's back so far.

of course, it's also possible they didn't nail the position of the studs properly at the factory. are you using the same ga of strings that it came with? I ask, because of all the guys tuning down so low and going with such heavier ga strings that it could also push the saddles back further.

but yes, if you must move them, go get some dowels and re-drill.

I've done this with my Strat, as the original posts were not drilled totally straight so I re-did it. I liked the fluted dowels so that plenty of wood glue got in there. I let it set for several days - it didn't need that long, but I felt better making sure everything was set. then I used a Dremel to remove the part of the dowels that were sticking out (having waited until everything dried and was totally set). then I re-drilled. it was handy to have someone there to eyeball it to make certain I was coming in on a totally perfect angle. a drill press would be much preferred.

you can look online to get the specs on the size of hole to drill for either the wood studs or the inserts. be conservative when you drill or you'll end up putting in more dowels and doing it over again. lol!

if you re-drill, please take some pics of the process and let everyone know how it goes.