Moving nut for perfect intonation?

Re: Moving nut for perfect intonation?

Dumb question... If the open, harmonics and frets up to 17 are in tune, is it possible fret placement is off on the highest frets?

Or are you saying that as you go higher and higher, the fretted notes become progressively sharper and sharper?
 
Re: Moving nut for perfect intonation?

Dumb question... If the open, harmonics and frets up to 17 are in tune, is it possible fret placement is off on the highest frets?

Or are you saying that as you go higher and higher, the fretted notes become progressively sharper and sharper?

Yes, very slightly. Its not noticeable until abouve 17.

If the trend wasn't consistent across guitars (many of them high end) I would attribute it to fret placement. It probably has something to do with the nut compensation - it being slightly closer so open strings are in tune with low fretted notes.
 
Last edited:
Re: Moving nut for perfect intonation?

Ah, I understand. I've seen that with my Epiphone, I just figured it was due to being a cheap guitar.

Just curious, what gauge strings are you using?
 
Re: Moving nut for perfect intonation?

Dumb question... If the open, harmonics and frets up to 17 are in tune, is it possible fret placement is off on the highest frets?

Or are you saying that as you go higher and higher, the fretted notes become progressively sharper and sharper?

The placement of the highest frets is a complex thing that depends on string gauge and other string properties, the fret size and the player's touch.

If you are a guitar maker and use modern frets (big-ish) and you place them mathematically correct you are guaranteed to make it come out wrong when a human is actually playing up there.
 
Last edited:
Re: Moving nut for perfect intonation?

"Perfect intonation" is a completely worthless pursuit, as when you achieve it, it sounds far worse than the so-so intonation that guitarists have been dealing with for many generations. Quit obsessing and play yer guitar.
 
Re: Moving nut for perfect intonation?

If it's something significant enough to need addressing, then I would examine all options such as action, fret dress, pickup magnet pull, etc, before adjusting the intonation at the saddles if it's good everywhere else. It's very unlikely I would advocate moving the nut back unless it were already forward shifted, as this change will affect notable changes all across the board.

I find it very rare for upper fret sharpening to be an issue of much consequence. Sequential notes often have to be drastically off before any negative effects can be heard by anyone not specifiacally seeking them out. Concurrent notes on the other hand, complex chords played against open strings (especially within proximity of an octave or two) are where smaller errors can jump out to catch your attention as noticeable. Play a run of single notes of short duration on upper frets though, and most people wouldn't notice a change of 10-15¢ until you started hanging on long duration chords.

Of course in this range of upper frets you can very easily shift 10¢ sharp or flat with a bit of finger pressure, so often it's better to work on techniques to intonate with your fingers (a discipline traditionally emphasized in the classical world, but often neglected in the realm of folk and rock players). Trying to make all notes land perfect without any intentional control by the player though, will be a long journey of chasing the wind. It's a very imperfect system, and any correction I've seen which purports to solve one problem without creating others has just never really added up.

+1.

Firstly, there is no reason why the strings should be significantly higher at the nut than they are at the first fret. In practice, they are often left higher, but this is more a reflection on the skill of the person dressing the nut than technical necessity.

Secondly, I'm at a loss to know why your guitars should be sounding sharp at above the 12th fret when the reverse is usually true, unless they are Gibsons and they've been fretted using the rule of 18, which causes all kinds of problems, and/or have the bridge mounted in the wrong place as most Gibsons (and many Jacksons) do. I'd be interested to know what they are.
 
Last edited:
Re: Moving nut for perfect intonation?

These are all 1.5K Japanese Ibanez guitars, and my journey into deeper understanding of intonation started when I recently purchased a cheap Chinese Dean shredder. The Dean guitar had a problem similar to what I was seeing on some of my Ibanez, and I wondered if the problem was caused by my lowering the nut (part of my standard setup) without compensating properly. I have lowered several of the Ibanez nuts too, so thought maybe I had caused the problem.

I have been recording recently and my playing style (Satriani like) has alot of position shifts and pedal tones, and my vibrato has evolved beyond big and obnoxious as I increasingly use note choice to resolve phrases - thus the need for more perfect intonation. Most of my guitars have been displaying these intonation "shifts" - things which I can hear while playing but when recorded were impossible to ignore. In the past I have intonated using a variety of strategies (12th harmonic vs 12th fret, 12th fret vs 24th fret, and others).

Over the past week I have done a ton of research regarding nut position and intontion. Have tried several different tuners and methods of intonation.

First I started by evaluating the nut compensation. What I found was that by comparing the third fret to the open strings, I would get an idea of how poor the nut position was on all my guitars. To my surprise, all the nuts were in generally the right position. All 3rd fret notes were between -2 and +3 cents off (usually less), but more importantly, the spread was around 0 - so unless I was ready to go to a compensated nut, these were in the ballpark. Also, I did not notice a correlation between the guitars that were intonating better and the nut compensation. IOW, the guitars that are recording/intonating better had similar patterns to the ones that were not. This includes some of the Fugigen Ibbys that I lowered the nut, the 2 Fugigen Ibbys I did not lower the nut, and (thankfully), the inexpensive Dean. All of the nuts were in generally correct position so I did not mess up the compensation by lowering the nuts.

So I then mapped the intonation in +/- cents on all the marked frets of each string so I could see what was happening on every guitar. There were individual variations all over the neck, but the trend I saw was that the higher strings (GBE) were more consistent all the way up the neck. They would generally be around +/-1 cents all the way up (in some places up to 3 cents off). The other pattern was that the wound strings were the ones that trended higher up to +5/7 cents above 15th fret up around 22/24th fret. But practically this is not a big deal because its more rare to play low notes above 15th fret on the wound strings.

I solved this by using another method of intonation. The problem with the standard advice of 12th fret vs 12 harmonic . . is that the 12t fret harmonic may be up to 2-3 cents off the open (for whatever reason). This was generally consistent between guitars.

Because I was intonating against the 12th fret harmonic (which is NOT the same as the open note), I was getting bogus results around the 12th fret. These were commonly flat 2/3 cents on some strings. So the guitars were generally correct below 9th, had some flat spots around 12th, and the wound strings would go sharp above 15th.

Instead, I intonated the 12th fret against the open and now I find the problem has disappeared. I can shred up and down the neck with lots of pedal tones and everything is in sync. This seems to trade some open chord accuracy for accuracy in the middle of the neck. However, because the nuts are not compensated, there is already inaccuracy down there and I find that lower tones hide inaccuracy better, and inaccuracy in open chords seem to average out, so this is much better for a player who shreds. That said, the open and lower position chords sounds as good as they did before, so I'm not sure this is a "robbing peter to pay paul" scenario. The lesson learned was to NOT use the 12th harmonic for intonation.

I am surprised that no where did I find this advice anywhere on the web. It seems the common advices for intonation are geared around making lower frets sound best, but I need the notes on high to intonate properly against pedal tones.

I'm in the process of redoing all my guitars, but it is a night and day difference. I believe a properly compensated nut may offer the best of both worlds: open chord accuracy and up the neck. (there are plenty of links on compensated nuts, Buzz Feiten system, etc...). Its always possible to make it better, but I am very satisfied with how they are playing now. I should have the rest finished over the next couple days.

Hopefully this is good food for thought for other players.

TLDR:
-Different intonation systems may suit a different players/styles.
-12th fret harmonic not same as open note - this will introduce problems if used for setting intonation (unless perhaps the nut is perfectly compensated for each string.)
 
Last edited:
Re: Moving nut for perfect intonation?

Check out this section of my website where I explain why the 12th fret is not the best reference point for intonation and, if you feel so inclined, dip into the section where I explain why I believe the Buzz Feiten system is so much snake oil.

http://www.edgeguitarservices.co.uk/Tempering/

Also this on why you shouldn't use a digital tuner to set the intonation

http://www.edgeguitarservices.co.uk/int/

In my experience the biggest single cause of intonation problems in "Floyd-Rose" equipped Ibanez guitars is inaccurate placement of the nut clamp. These often sit further back from the end of the fingerboard than they should and the problem is compounded by the fact that the strings often sound from the front of the clamp plate rather than the front edge of the nut.

I don't believe that nut compensation is a solution personally and I've not seen it on any Ibanez guitars apart from a JS1000 that had a kind of shelf nut fitted which was largely ineffectual.

A much bigger problem is the widespread lack of understanding of the mandatory adherence to equal temperament that is required for guitar intonation. The human brain is hardwired to listen for the natural harmonic intervals defined by the harmonic series but these intervals do not lend themselves to the creation of a scale of fixed pitch notes; it is mathematically and physically impossible for the guitar and for any fixed pitch instrument; pianos, organs, tuned percussion, they all have to compromise. It's a particular problem for the guitar family, being almost unique in that the compass of each string overlaps that of its neighbours' by a considerable margin and the different voicing of the same note on neighbouring strings can still produce audible beats because even when the fundamentals are in consonance, inharmonicity may cause some of the harmonics not to be, and may still produce an interference pattern.

Guitars sound "in tune" only when every note on the fingerboard sounds the same as every other note of the same pitch value. If you temper with that goal in mind you won't go far wrong.
 
Last edited:
Re: Moving nut for perfect intonation?

Check out this section of my website where I explain why the 12th fret is not the best reference point for intonation and, if you feel so inclined, dip into the section where I explain why I believe the Buzz Feiten system is so much snake oil.

http://www.edgeguitarservices.co.uk/Tempering/

Also this on why you shouldn't use a digital tuner to set the intonation

http://www.edgeguitarservices.co.uk/int/

In my experience the biggest single cause of intonation problems in "Floyd-Rose" equipped Ibanez guitars is inaccurate placement of the nut clamp. These often sit further back from the end of the fingerboard than they should and the problem is compounded by the fact that the strings often sound from the front of the clamp plate rather than the front edge of the nut.

I don't believe that nut compensation is a solution personally and I've not seen it on any Ibanez guitars apart from a JS1000 that had a kind of shelf nut fitted which was largely ineffectual.

A much bigger problem is the widespread lack of understanding of the mandatory adherence to equal temperament that is required for guitar intonation. The human brain is hardwired to listen for the natural harmonic intervals defined by the harmonic series but these intervals do not lend themselves to the creation of a scale of fixed pitch notes; it is mathematically and physically impossible for the guitar and for any fixed pitch instrument; pianos, organs, tuned percussion, they all have to compromise. It's a particular problem for the guitar family, being almost unique in that the compass of each string overlaps that of its neighbours' by a considerable margin and the different voicing of the same note on neighbouring strings can still produce audible beats because even when the fundamentals are in consonance, inharmonicity may cause some of the harmonics not to be, and may still produce an interference pattern.

Guitars sound "in tune" only when every note on the fingerboard sounds the same as every other note of the same pitch value. If you temper with that goal in mind you won't go far wrong.

I've played with various strategies of intonating fifths at several places along the neck, which may be similar to your tempering.

I am not unhappy with my Floyd guitars as of my current tuning. Theoretically the floyd clamp if properly positioned should be no worse than an uncompensated nut. I would not be quick to dismiss Floyd nuts as causing intonation problems. One of the nuts on one guitar which I later had plekked was filed down on one side so appears someone had compensated to a small degree (factory or previous owner). The rules of physics apply the same whether the nut is metal or bone.

On my guitars, the nuts seem to be placed so that inaccuracy falls to both + and - against the lower frets (a couple cents either way, or zero) so they are not grossly misplaced and I am happy with their current playing.

I agree the ear is more useful than a tuner, my ear always agrees with it as is probably more accurate. I think the thing I learned from mapping the fretboard is that the tuner confirms exactly why my ear is hearing. When I have played these guitars more, I can easily see making slight adjustments for better compromise, but this may be in response to the way I play.

Apparently there are many different philosophies on intonation systems. I'll leave those debates to luthiers. I'm happy to be in a place where the guitars are recording well and I can go back to thinking about music again. When I have more down time maybe I can investigate Earvana or Feiten or other system.
 
Last edited:
Re: Moving nut for perfect intonation?

Theoretically the floyd clamp if properly positioned should be no worse than an uncompensated nut. I would not be quick to dismiss Floyd nuts as causing intonation problems. One of the nuts on one guitar which I later had plekked was filed down on one side so appears someone had compensated to a small degree (factory or previous owner). The rules of physics apply the same whether the nut is metal or bone.

My point was not that yours are causing problems - there's no argument here I'm just offering the benefit of my experience - but that incorrect placement of the nut clamp is the biggest single cause of intonation problems that I encounter. I work on these guitars professionally, day in, day out and over the last twenty years or so, since the appearance of the modern rock strat, I have seen literally hundreds of these guitars and I would say that I can count on the fingers of my hand the number of occasions when the nut has not been causing intonation problems. I wouldn't say that I'm being quick to dismiss the issue at all, it's an opinion based on observation of a very large sample...

Typically, they are mounted too high; that's the most common cause but I have also seen them so sloppily mounted that the string is sounding from almost 1mm behind the correct theoretical position. I have also seen the wrong radius arc fitted, so that the outer courses are sitting too high while the inner ones are almost fretting out on the first fret. Better ones have a small ridge on the front of the baseplate because on some older nut clamps the string doesn't sound from the front edge. That's just the tip of the iceberg...

You are correct that theoretically, a Floyd nut properly fitted should be no more inaccurate than a conventional nut, but practice doesn't always follow theory and manufacturers are often under pressure, employ semi-skilled labour paid on piece work rates and under pressure errors are made. You run out of nut clamps of the correct radius? Don't hold up production while we wait for a delivery, there's a box in the stores, there's only a tiny difference, no-one will notice...

I've worked for a major manufacturer of cheap Korean imports, I know the shenanigans that go on.

Yes, there are a number of different philosophies on intonation; most of them are wrong, usually as the result of a failure to understand the basic physics of harmony, tension and string dynamics, and here is one - from John and William Gilbert - that has been widely touted as justification for nut compensation. There is a massive logical flaw in the Gilberts' initial assumption, but because they have dressed it up in a lot of pseudo-mathematics and cod logic, this gaffe has passed completely unnoticed. Even my friend Jay, a highly intelligent and astute consultant surgeon failed to spot it until it was pointed out to him.

http://www.schrammguitars.com/intonation.html

The Gilberts' mistake was to start from the standpoint that nut compensation is necessary, then look for a way to justify it instead of looking at what happens to a stressed string and working out what needed to be done to compensate for this. As a result, all they have succeeded in doing is misleading themselves, and others.

In case you miss it, I'd draw your attention to paragraph 5.

There is no debate amongst luthiers about intonation; the laws of physics (at least at this level) are immutable and not open to challenge but not well understood, not even by luthiers sometimes. It's the lack of understanding that leads to conflict.
 
Re: Moving nut for perfect intonation?

Perhaps you can explain the theory behind why the 12th fret harmonic is up to a few cents off from the open note. The assumption that they are the same is what misled me.
 
Re: Moving nut for perfect intonation?

Thank you very much Top-L and octavedoctor. Your discussions have led to some incite I was not fully aware of. What started out seeming to be an exercise in futility has led to a new way of thinking on the subject and knowledge. Thank you.
Octavedoctor, in your opinion do you think it would be a good idea when cutting the nut shelf for a locking nut, that it be tipped/angled back slightly to ensure the the witness point of the strings be at the very front edge?
Thanks, John
 
Re: Moving nut for perfect intonation?

Perhaps you can explain the theory behind why the 12th fret harmonic is up to a few cents off from the open note. The assumption that they are the same is what misled me.

I'll refer you to the second link in my post from yesterday. This explains why the forces contained in the body of the vibrating string act to accelerate the harmonics, although in fact the 12th fret harmonic is barely affected by this normally and I'd be more inclined to believe that your digital tuner is not accurate and can't cope with the inherent instability of the open string with its plethora of overtones. The first harmonic is generally more stable, while the frequency of the open string tends to "wander"; most notably, the initial attack transient causes the string to sound slightly sharp. As the attack transient passes the string settles into a slowly decaying stable resonance. Tuning to the attack transient will always introduce errors. I have never found that there is any significant difference between the pitch accuracy of the first harmonic and the open string's stable resonant phase.

I distrust digital tuners and I have a lot of unwelcome experience with them. When I first started playing the guitar about 42 years ago, there were no digital tuners. We learned to tune by ear, using a tuning fork. This is a skill that a whole generation of guitarists, raised to be reliant on digital technology, have lost.

In 1983 when I started working for Hohner I was handed a digital tuner; "Use this" I was told, "it'll make tuning the guitar a breeze..."

It didn't. My productivity went down. The Korg DT-1 found it's way into my bin and never came out; my productivity went back up again. Not only was I able to tune guitars more quickly if I didn't have to watch for the little flickering green light but they also sounded better afterwards, regardless of what the tuner said.

I've always tempered intonation the same way; using higher level harmonics to temper the fretted notes on the higher frets. I didn't really think about what I was doing but I noticed that my customers came back to me time and time again and said more or less the same thing; that their guitars had never sounded quite in tune before, and now they did. They are still saying it. It wasn't until about 15 years ago that I began to realise that I was on to something and began to think about the relationship between the arc relief, nut height, inharmonicity and the applied strain on the string.

I have on occasion, used a digital tuner in an emergency, but never relied upon one. I'd go as far as to say they are the worst device ever offered to musicians.

I always remember a conversation I had with one of my customers. I'd set the intonation on one of his spiky heavy metal guitars. He'd taken it away and gone back home then checked it with a tuner, 'cos he's a bit like that.

"you set my intonation wrong!" he came back to me with later, in full combat mode.

"how so?"

"all the notes above the 12th fret are sharp, according to my tuner"

"but how does it sound?"

There was a pause. "well, it sounds OK; but the tuner says it's wrong!!"

"well" I said, when you brought it to me, you'd set it with the tuner, but it wasn't sounding right. Now it sounds right, but doesn't agree with the tuner. Which is more important to you; how it looks or how it sounds?"

I went on to explain to him about inharmonicity, how piano tuners pull up the pitch of the shorter and stiffer strings to counter this, and how guitars, although not subject to the same extent of inharmonicity, nevertheless required a similar approach to pitch management. He got it in the end
:beerchug:
 
Re: Moving nut for perfect intonation?

Thank you very much Top-L and octavedoctor. Your discussions have led to some incite I was not fully aware of. What started out seeming to be an exercise in futility has led to a new way of thinking on the subject and knowledge. Thank you.
Octavedoctor, in your opinion do you think it would be a good idea when cutting the nut shelf for a locking nut, that it be tipped/angled back slightly to ensure the the witness point of the strings be at the very front edge?
Thanks, John

I've thought about that on occasion John, but on balance it's not usually viable. With the old style nuts the cap head screws through the neck don't usually allow for re-adjustment of the aspect angle of the nut clamp. Even if you could, it doesn't achieve much, as the front edge of the nut is perpendicular and is designed to butt against the end of the fingerboard. Tilting it back pushes the sounding point further away from the first fret so what you gain on the swings you lose on the roundabouts as they say.

It's usually sufficient to ensure that the nut is butting hard up against the end of the fingerboard
 
Re: Moving nut for perfect intonation?

octavedoctor I understand that. If I were to do it I would be using a fixture made specifically for cutting locking nut shelves using a router, and would compensate for the shift of the sounding point. I was thinking in the range of having the rear of the nut be maybe .010" to .020" lower than the front and would only do it with an existing installation if there was a problem or more specifically when doing a new install.
Your thoughts?
 
Re: Moving nut for perfect intonation?

I'll refer you to the second link in my post from yesterday. This explains why the forces contained in the body of the vibrating string act to accelerate the harmonics, although in fact the 12th fret harmonic is barely affected by this normally and I'd be more inclined to believe that your digital tuner is not accurate and can't cope with the inherent instability of the open string with its plethora of overtones.
:beerchug:

Your condescending attitude "I'm the luthier, I am right, there *is* no debate on intonation, Feiten is *crap*, I'm teaching you, etc, etc." **** has got to end. I mean I get it, you are trying to be king ****, project an image, etc etc.

The guitar intonates and plays great now. The tuner is accurate to the cent and the ability to identify the difference between the 12th fret and 12th harmonic is why it is playing great. There is nothing wrong with the accuracy of my tuner.

This is not rocket science, its actually quite simple. My day job is as an engineer; I usually roll my eyes at the arrogant luthier types. Your **** is easy. Really easy.

Here is the article which enlightened me on the subject of nut compensation:
http://www.doolinguitars.com/intonation/intonation4.html

I don't need to claim it as my own or use it as a "teaching moment". I provide it so average joes can figure this stuff out and not have to deal with arrogant luthier types.
 
Last edited:
Re: Moving nut for perfect intonation?

octavedoctor I understand that. If I were to do it I would be using a fixture made specifically for cutting locking nut shelves using a router, and would compensate for the shift of the sounding point. I was thinking in the range of having the rear of the nut be maybe .010" to .020" lower than the front and would only do it with an existing installation if there was a problem or more specifically when doing a new install.
Your thoughts?

Firstly, one of the problems with the traditional Floyd nut clamp is that it has a 13 degree radius arc on the base plate, while the headstock has an approximate 8 degree rake. This causes the strings to "lift" at the back of the nut clamp. This is why the older Ibanez guitars have to have a tie bar behind the nut. If you tip the nut backward, this gets worse.

The newer ones now have a flat base with an angle approximately half that of the headstock rake. You might be able to get away with it with one of those, but they generally don't need it as they don't suffer from the same issues as the older ones.
 
Re: Moving nut for perfect intonation?

Your condescending attitude "I'm the luthier, I am right, there *is* no debate on intonation, Feiten is *crap*, I'm teaching you, etc, etc." **** has got to end. I mean I get it, you are trying to be king ****, project an image, etc etc.

The guitar intonates and plays great now. The tuner is accurate to the cent and the ability to identify the difference between the 12th fret and 12th harmonic is why it is playing great. There is nothing wrong with the accuracy of my tuner.

This is not rocket science, its actually quite simple. My day job is as an engineer; I usually roll my eyes at the arrogant luthier types. Your **** is easy. Really easy.

Here is the article which enlightened me on the subject of nut compensation:
http://www.doolinguitars.com/intonation/intonation4.html

I don't need to claim it as my own or use it as a "teaching moment". I provide it so average joes can figure this stuff out and not have to deal with arrogant luthier types.

1.) If it was that simple then why did you even ask the question?

2.) Your tuner MAY be accurate but your guitar is still not perfectly intonated nor perfectly in tune and NEVER will be just because of how it's made. Also all the tuning in the world won't matter because once you strap the guitar on and start to move around and play your out of tune anyway but it's manageable. Unless your playing a fretless instrument or a instrument without fixed pitches then you can get that much closer but even then that comes with some limitations.
 
Re: Moving nut for perfect intonation?

octavedoctor, I really think you need to tone it down a bit. If you want to throw around physics why don't you put the math here?
 
Re: Moving nut for perfect intonation?

The intonation on all fretted stringed instruments is a compromise.

As a player of both fretless bass and three-saddle bridge Telecaster style guitars, I have learned to slur and bend strings until my ear detects that any given note is in tune.
 
Back
Top