multimeters?

[drew_half_empty]

so I've decided to get one

the one I'm looking at has a digital display screen, and can handle up to 600 watts & 40 ohms, is this enough for working on amps?

I'm just now starting to delve into working on amps, so

another question, is there anything else i need to buy to make it usable for rebiasing & such? like some sort of adaptor? If so, how much & where can i get it

 

[HolyDirt]

Re: multimeters?

so I've decided to get one

the one I'm looking at has a digital display screen, and can handle up to 600 watts & 40 ohms, is this enough for working on amps?

I'm just now starting to delve into working on amps, so

another question, is there anything else i need to buy to make it usable for rebiasing & such? like some sort of adaptor? If so, how much & where can i get it

40 ohms? no lol

 

[That90'sGuy]

Re: multimeters?

You'll want something more than 40 ohms for sure.

Check this out: http://www.cableorganizer.com/triplett/digital-multimeter/digital-multimeter-m830b.htm

Klein makes solid products for electricians and out on the field we tend to work on higher voltages than amps and have no problems with our digital mulitmeters (I'm not sure what exact brand/model mine is, I'll have to check).

 

[Kent S.]

Re: multimeters?

so I've decided to get one

the one I'm looking at has a digital display screen, and can handle up to 600 watts & 40 ohms, is this enough for working on amps?

A multimeter rated in watts ... ??? :laugh2: :laugh2:
I think I'd beat the salesperson over the head with it first for trying to mess with me.
In all honesty, it sounds like you need to do some more studying and learning about electronic basics first ... however ... no harm in having the proper equipment from the get go ... A true RMS reading meter, with 10Meg ohm input impedance,capable of handling up to 750VAC and 1,000VDC;up to about 300~500mA DC, most AC current will use the unfused (read lethal) input rated at 10A. A continuity test function is nice, but the resistance mode will do that ... speaking of which, be capable of measuring up to 10M (this varies a lot with meters, normally not super crucial ... but if you want to measure a 10M component and your meter only goes up to 4M ... well you can't measure it.
A capacitance scale is useful, especially if accurate in the lower and mid ranges ... electrolytic caps can't be measured accurately with most meters under about $500 anyway ... nor do yu really need to measure those to begin with ...
Diode test function is nice, a hold and auto range function is nice also.
I just at this point rather than more specifics a recommnedation might be good ... okay, slip on over to Radio Shack (otherwise known as rat shack)
as a good beginner meter without capacitance ... Radio Shack #22-803
around $40 ...resistance up to 4Meg, up to 750VAC, up to 1,000VDC, up to 400mA DC, diode checker, auto-polarity, auto ranging, no AC current measurement ability, you really don't need that either.
Also,if you don't need current measuring at all and only 400 volts AC or DC ( solid state amps and pedals), then they have a nice little pocket sized one with attached probes that folds up in your shirt pocket, has continuity mode, and resistance, plus diode checker, auto range and auto-polarity, up to 4Meg resistance, audible and visible overage indicators. Radio Shack #22-802, around $25.
Meters with capacitance modes around around roughly $70 and up, and true RMS is around $90 ... Other feature such as temperature probes, dBm scale for AC, frequency counters, etc. are things that you don't need now, maybe never will need. Also check into B&K Precision, Temna, and other brands that electronics suppliers carry, compare their specs and features with what you need.
The cool thing about a beginning meter is that you never out grow it, you always can use it as a *travel meter*, like for taking on gigs and such for simpler, run if the mill jobs, while the good one stays at home.

 

[texasguitarslinger]

Re: multimeters?

A multimeter rated in watts ... ??? :laugh2: :laugh2:
I think I'd beat the salesperson over the head with it first for trying to mess with me.
In all honesty, it sounds like you need to do some more studying and learning about electronic basics first ... however ... no harm in having the proper equipment from the get go ... A true RMS reading meter, with 10Meg ohm input impedance,capable of handling up to 750VAC and 1,000VDC;up to about 300~500mA DC, most AC current will use the unfused (read lethal) input rated at 10A. A continuity test function is nice, but the resistance mode will do that ... speaking of which, be capable of measuring up to 10M (this varies a lot with meters, normally not super crucial ... but if you want to measure a 10M component and your meter only goes up to 4M ... well you can't measure it.
A capacitance scale is useful, especially if accurate in the lower and mid ranges ... electrolytic caps can't be measured accurately with most meters under about $500 anyway ... nor do yu really need to measure those to begin with ...
Diode test function is nice, a hold and auto range function is nice also.
I just at this point rather than more specifics a recommnedation might be good ... okay, slip on over to Radio Shack (otherwise known as rat shack)
as a good beginner meter without capacitance ... Radio Shack #22-803
around $40 ...resistance up to 4Meg, up to 750VAC, up to 1,000VDC, up to 400mA DC, diode checker, auto-polarity, auto ranging, no AC current measurement ability, you really don't need that either.
Also,if you don't need current measuring at all and only 400 volts AC or DC ( solid state amps and pedals), then they have a nice little pocket sized one with attached probes that folds up in your shirt pocket, has continuity mode, and resistance, plus diode checker, auto range and auto-polarity, up to 4Meg resistance, audible and visible overage indicators. Radio Shack #22-802, around $25.
Meters with capacitance modes around around roughly $70 and up, and true RMS is around $90 ... Other feature such as temperature probes, dBm scale for AC, frequency counters, etc. are things that you don't need now, maybe never will need. Also check into B&K Precision, Temna, and other brands that electronics suppliers carry, compare their specs and features with what you need.
The cool thing about a beginning meter is that you never out grow it, you always can use it as a *travel meter*, like for taking on gigs and such for simpler, run if the mill jobs, while the good one stays at home.

+1 uh... you typed the words right out of my mouth.

 

[the guy who invented fire]

Re: multimeters?

+1 uh... you typed the words right out of my mouth.

+1 more...except I call it Radio Slack!

 

[the guy who invented fire]

Re: multimeters?

I feel that I must warn you to be careful...the voltages inside an amp IS very dangerous.

 

[rspst14]

Re: multimeters?

I have a Fluke 111 digital multimeter that I picked up on Ebay last Christmas for $70. Now that I've really learned to use it, I can't imagine working on guitars or amps without it. You don't need to spend that much, but I would definitely recommend this model over a cheap one from Radio Shack.

Oh yeah, I think you're a bit mistaken about the 40 ohms thing. Also, make sure you really know what you're doing before you go poking around inside an amp. The voltages inside an amp can kill you, even with the amp unplugged and turned off.

Ryan

 

[STRATDELUXER97]

Re: multimeters?

Drew Half Empty is going to be his home's Christmas ornaments this year! LOL....

 

[the guy who invented fire]

Re: multimeters?

Drew Half Empty is going to be his home's Christmas ornaments this year! LOL....

:laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: shinning brightly :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:

 

[STRATDELUXER97]

Re: multimeters?

:laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: shinning brightly :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:

Drew scares me sometimes? Make sure you read the manual really well before you plug your meter in....Remember you can't check ohms within a live circuit...Remember also that the hot part of the soldering iron,isn't the side you hold! LOL Will you save up for the meter first or the soldering iron?

I'm just funnin with ya buddy,but the post was funny,you have to admit that...You really need to know alot more about your topics before you post,so you don't put alot of attention to yourself and make us all laugh at you....:smack:

John
:burnout:

 

[drew_half_empty]

Re: multimeters?

eh my birthday is in like 2 weeks so I'm just asking for both

and i know how to work a soldering iron really well


I've never done anything technical with amps, just guitars & pedals, but i figure now is the perfect time to get what i need for when i do start messing with amps

and i know to unplug everything & how to drain caps & all that, i jsut had no idea what kinda multimeter i need

john, no offense takin, as long as it's all in fun :dance:

 

[STRATDELUXER97]

Re: multimeters?

eh my birthday is in like 2 weeks so I'm just asking for both

and i know how to work a soldering iron really well


I've never done anything technical with amps, just guitars & pedals, but i figure now is the perfect time to get what i need for when i do start messing with amps

and i know to unplug everything & how to drain caps & all that, i jsut had no idea what kinda multimeter i need

john, no offense takin, as long as it's all in fun :dance:

It's all in fun....Please be sure to ask alot of questions of some of us before you start poking around within amps...You really can knock yourself across the room within there and trust me,it sucks! You won't hurt yourself doing pedals,but amps are a different ballgame...Make sure you read the manual on your meter really well so you understand how to connect it within the circuit your testing or you'll ruin your meter or blow fuses at the very least....

John

 

[drew_half_empty]

Re: multimeters?

will do

so do i need any sort of adaptor for rebiasing & such?

 

[STRATDELUXER97]

Re: multimeters?

will do

so do i need any sort of adaptor for rebiasing & such?

The bias adapter is the safer way to go...I Like to use 1 ohm cathode resistors across my output tube sockets and then I just hook my meter across the cathode resistors and set to whatever I decide to set my tube current to in millivolts....The 1 ohm resistors covert the milliamps to millivolts and it's safer and easier on your meter this way...You should invest in Torres's book on How To Mod Amps...Great book and it explains most of the stuff you'll want to learn and know as you go...Don't do anything to any amp unless you are at least 100% sure you know what you are doing! You've been warned Drew.

Here's the book....

http://store1.yimg.com/I/torresengineering_1817_109020

John

 

[drew_half_empty]

Re: multimeters?

thanks

and yeah, i don't wanna die

atleast not until I've reached greatness that'll be more appreciated when i kick the bucket

 

[the guy who invented fire]

Re: multimeters?

thanks

and yeah, i don't wanna die

atleast not until I've reached greatness that'll be more appreciated when i kick the bucket

Shouldn't you know all this stuff already?

 

[Kent S.]

Re: multimeters?

I have a Fluke 111 digital multimeter that I picked up on Ebay last Christmas for $70. Now that I've really learned to use it, I can't imagine working on guitars or amps without it. You don't need to spend that much, but I would definitely recommend this model over a cheap one from Radio Shack.

Oh yeah, I think you're a bit mistaken about the 40 ohms thing. Also, make sure you really know what you're doing before you go poking around inside an amp. The voltages inside an amp can kill you, even with the amp unplugged and turned off.

Ryan

That being said, I still stack my favourite Radio shack meter against anything, model #22-174 around $90, but I don't think they carry it anymore ...true RMS, dBm scale, capacitance, hold, frequency counter, temperature probe (F or C),diode tester, transitor tester (type, pin out, and beta), 10Meg input impedance, AC and DC voltage and current (1,000VDC;750VAC,400mA dc, up to 10A AC), auto-ranging with manual defeat, and auto polarity with bar graph, and component insert ports for resistors, capacitors, and diodes (the transitor of course has it's own socket), very accurate (although there are more accurate meters) ... the reason I mention it is because if they still carry it it's a steal for the money, and if they don't you could try eBay for anyone dumb enough to part with theirs.

 

[Kent S.]

Re: multimeters?

Drew scares me sometimes? Make sure you read the manual really well before you plug your meter in....Remember you can't check ohms within a live circuit...

Also, capacitors need to be discharged before you take a capacitance measurement, Drew I don't know if you'll be running into that or not, but a meter with a capacitance scale is a blessing. BTW, you can't accurately measure the capacitance of the big electrolytic caps in the amps power supply ... nor would you really need to BTW. Also, if you get a meter without a cap scale you can still test caps to see if they are defective as far as opens or shorts.
A hold or freeze function is nice when working on things, also get a set of those insulated alligator clips that go over the ends of the probes, real handy to have, and it encourages the one hand rule ... always a good thing.

 

[Kent S.]

Re: multimeters?

eh my birthday is in like 2 weeks so I'm just asking for both

and i know how to work a soldering iron really well


I've never done anything technical with amps, just guitars & pedals, but i figure now is the perfect time to get what i need for when i do start messing with amps

and i know to unplug everything & how to drain caps & all that, i jsut had no idea what kinda multimeter i need

john, no offense takin, as long as it's all in fun :dance:

No offense, but you might now how to drain caps etc, but I still get the impression that you need to study some electronics, get a beginner's book on electrical theory and formuli. Those formuli are there for a reason, and you will need to know how to calculate the power handling capability of components ... need I say it, know Ohm's law DC and AC and it's offspring, and variations backwards,forwards, upside down, from an angle, and in the dark.
How to calculate resistances, voltage drop across, and the current thru them,voltage divider rule, current divider rule, Kirchoff's voltage law, Kirchoff's current law, Norton's theorem, Thevenin's theorem, Millman's theorem, Reciprocity theorem, Substitution theorem,Power calculations, etc. Even if it's easy to let the meter do the work, at least learn the stuff and the why and hows.
Lastly, always assume a circuit is live at all times and can kill you. This in itself breeds good safety habits, and makes your work much more precise and clean. Never assume you know what you are doing, this forces you to double check yourself. Becareful Drew and have fun learning and doing ... :cool3: