my draft wiring diagram - I need assistance please

[Ro_S]

Hello,

So I've produced a draft wiring diagram for my guitar modification project. See image below.

I've not done any guitar wiring or electronics before.

I need assistance to check it over my wiring diagram, please.


There are a few things I'v annotated in the diagram with question marks which I certainly need advise on and help with:-

1. I'm unsure about the wiring of the toggle switch for the 'JB' humbucker. I used the official S/D diagram but I want the 'slug' coil to be the one that coil splits, so I'm unsure if what I've used is still correct for that purpose.

2. I want the two lipstick pick-ups to be wired IN SERIES when both are active. How do I achieve that? I believe my wiring diagram currently has the two lipstick pick-ups wired in parallel, but that isn't what I want..

3. How would I wire the three piezo disc 'pick-ups' in series with one another, if I wanted to do that?

4. I want the JB/neck pick-ups (one group) and the pair of lipstick pick-ups (another group) to be wired IN SERIES when both of these groups are on together (activated by the middle position on a 3-way switch). How do I achieve this?

5. I want the magnetic pick-ups and the piezo 'pick-ups' to wired IN SERIES when both of these groups are on together (activated by the middle position on a 3-way switch). How do I achieve this?

6. I'm unsure whether the toggle switches are the correct type for each purpose.


Any help would certainly most appreciated. Thanks!


Notes:

- I've chosen 250K volume and tone pots (Alpha brand) for the magnetic pick-ups, with a 0.033uf 600v ('orange drop') tone capacitor. (All the pick-ups are single coils except the JB humbucker in the bridge.)

- re: the passive tone/volume circuit of the piezo disc 'pick-ups'. This is based based directly on a scheme I found posted on a cigar box guitar forum. 100K resistor; and two 0.0022 [yes, 0.0022, not 0.022] capacitors . These pots will be 500K.


Version 01


url link: http://s1108.photobucket.com/user/R...wiringdiagramjagproject-1.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
click on magnifier glass icon for bigger size


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[DrNewcenstein]

Re: my draft wiring diagram - I need assistance please

1. How to wire a 4-conductor for splitting to determine which coil is active:
http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=coil_splitting

2. Given that Lipsticks are 2-conductor, they will be in series as long as both are wired the same (i.e. both whites are hot, both blacks are ground, or both blacks are hot, both whites are ground). I'm not sure if one being RWRP changes that. Probably so.

3. Piezos have 2 conductors - ground and hot. As with the Lipsticks, wire the Hots to the same points and they will be in series. I'm not even sure they'll function if you put the braided shielding to Hot and the inner wire to ground.

4. If your lipsticks are in the neck humbucker position, then the default switching will be bridge+both neck pickups. You can use the 3-way to select whether the pickup selector chooses Bridge + Neck 1 or Bridge + Neck 2, but the middle will, by default, activate all 3 pickups.

5. Unless the coils are wired and/or wound specifically otherwise (i.e. RWRP), or the magnet in one is flipped, the default wiring for any two pickups will always be In Series with each other.

6. Gibson-style 3-way switches can only do 1, 1+2, 2. The middle is automatically bridging the 2 outer options. If the application of those types of switches does involve combining the two outer options in the middle, they're the right switch. If not, then no, they're not correct.

 

[Ro_S]

Re: my draft wiring diagram - I need assistance please

1. How to wire a 4-conductor for splitting to determine which coil is active:
http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=coil_splitting

2. Given that Lipsticks are 2-conductor, they will be in series as long as both are wired the same (i.e. both whites are hot, both blacks are ground, or both blacks are hot, both whites are ground). I'm not sure if one being RWRP changes that. Probably so.

3. Piezos have 2 conductors - ground and hot. As with the Lipsticks, wire the Hots to the same points and they will be in series. I'm not even sure they'll function if you put the braided shielding to Hot and the inner wire to ground.

4. If your lipsticks are in the neck humbucker position, then the default switching will be bridge+both neck pickups. You can use the 3-way to select whether the pickup selector chooses Bridge + Neck 1 or Bridge + Neck 2, but the middle will, by default, activate all 3 pickups.

5. Unless the coils are wired and/or wound specifically otherwise (i.e. RWRP), or the magnet in one is flipped, the default wiring for any two pickups will always be In Series with each other.

6. Gibson-style 3-way switches can only do 1, 1+2, 2. The middle is automatically bridging the 2 outer options. If the application of those types of switches does involve combining the two outer options in the middle, they're the right switch. If not, then no, they're not correct.

@ DrNewcenstein - Hi, again.

Thanks.for your reply.

Re: point 1 - Yeah, I saw and consulted that diagram before, but - because it concerns a coil splitting functionality only - I don't understand how to translate that into how I need to amend the wiring of the split/series/parallel switch wiring.

Re: lipstick pick-ups. Yes, both the lipsticks I have are normal polarity. They're built as per vintage Danelectro spec (expect they're shorter in length and have shorter mounting bracket legs). They are low output.

Re: point 4. I think we're probably cross purposes? To clarify: There are four magnetic pick-ups - a humbucker in the bridge, and a Tele style neck pick-up (group #1); and a Dano style lipstick also in the neck, and another Dano style lipstick in the middle (group #2). I wish to know how to wire it so that when group #1 and group #2 are both active together (via a selector switch position), they - the two groups - are in series rather than parallel.

5. Unless the coils are wired and/or wound specifically otherwise (i.e. RWRP), or the magnet in one is flipped, the default wiring for any two pickups will always be In Series with each other..

Interesting. I didn't know that. But, um, I thought that in a normal modern Tele, neither single coil is RWRP; and yet I understand that the middle position they're wired in parallel?

 

[GuitarDoc]

Re: my draft wiring diagram - I need assistance please

All I can say is..............


"SERIOUSLY???!!!!!"


With a couple more switches you can get it to change your underwear.

Add some more pups and it can cook your dinner too!

 

[GuitarDoc]

Re: my draft wiring diagram - I need assistance please

1. How to wire a 4-conductor for splitting to determine which coil is active:
http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=coil_splitting

2. Given that Lipsticks are 2-conductor, they will be in series as long as both are wired the same (i.e. both whites are hot, both blacks are ground, or both blacks are hot, both whites are ground). I'm not sure if one being RWRP changes that. Probably so.

3. Piezos have 2 conductors - ground and hot. As with the Lipsticks, wire the Hots to the same points and they will be in series. I'm not even sure they'll function if you put the braided shielding to Hot and the inner wire to ground.

4. If your lipsticks are in the neck humbucker position, then the default switching will be bridge+both neck pickups. You can use the 3-way to select whether the pickup selector chooses Bridge + Neck 1 or Bridge + Neck 2, but the middle will, by default, activate all 3 pickups.

5. Unless the coils are wired and/or wound specifically otherwise (i.e. RWRP), or the magnet in one is flipped, the default wiring for any two pickups will always be In Series with each other.

6. Gibson-style 3-way switches can only do 1, 1+2, 2. The middle is automatically bridging the 2 outer options. If the application of those types of switches does involve combining the two outer options in the middle, they're the right switch. If not, then no, they're not correct.

Re: your points #2, #3, #5...NO! They will all be parallel. A typical LP type 3-way toggle will always give you parallel when the two pups are combined. In order to get series the hot/lead from one pup will need to be connected to the ground of the other pup (the "other" pup's ground wire will obviously be disconnected from any ground connection). You will need a DPDT on/on/on switch to establish the correct connections to do this. For example: regarding the two lipstick pups. (I can't give you a diagram, but follow this)...

Label the DPDT switch lugs as follows:

1 4
2 5
3 6

Connect the black/ground wire from pup #A (one lipstick) to lug #1,
Connect the white/lead/hot wire from pup #A to lug #4,
Connect the black/ground wire from pup #B (the other lipstick) to lug #3,
Connect the white/lead wire from pup #B to lug #6,
Connect a jumper wire from lug #1 to lug #6,
Connect lug #2 to ground,
Connect lug #5 to output (jack, other switch, vol pot, etc).

When switch is down you get pup #A,
In the middle you get pup #A +#B in series,
When switch is up you get pup #B.

 

[Ro_S]

Re: my draft wiring diagram - I need assistance please

All I can say is..............

"SERIOUSLY???!!!!!"

With a couple more switches you can get it to change your underwear.

Add some more pups and it can cook your dinner too!

Hmm, any recommendations? ;p

 

[Ro_S]

Re: my draft wiring diagram - I need assistance please

NO! They will all be parallel. A typical LP type 3-way toggle will always give you parallel when the two pups are combined. In order to get series the hot/lead from one pup will need to be connected to the ground of the other pup (the "other" pup's ground wire will obviously be disconnected from any ground connection). You will need a DPDT on/on/on switch to establish the correct connections to do this. For example: regarding the two lipstick pups. (I can't give you a diagram, but follow this)...

Label the DPDT switch lugs as follows:

1 4
2 5
3 6

Connect the black/ground wire from pup #A (one lipstick) to lug #1,
Connect the white/lead/hot wire from pup #A to lug #4,
Connect the black/ground wire from pup #B (the other lipstick) to lug #3,
Connect the white/lead wire from pup #B to lug #6,
Connect a jumper wire from lug #1 to lug #6,
Connect lug #2 to ground,
Connect lug #5 to output (jack, other switch, vol pot, etc).

When switch is down you get pup #A,
In the middle you get pup #A +#B in series,
When switch is up you get pup #B.

thankyou!

So it looks like I need FOUR x DPDT on/on/on switches? Can this type only be acquired as mini toggle swiches? That would be a shame; I prefer big knobs (ahum).

Does the rest of my wiring diagram look sound? Did I do good?

thanks

 

[GuitarDoc]

Re: my draft wiring diagram - I need assistance please

I've heard it said that..."Any more than a mouthful is a waste"

 

[DrNewcenstein]

Re: my draft wiring diagram - I need assistance please

In order to get series the hot/lead from one pup will need to be connected to the ground of the other pup (the "other" pup's ground wire will obviously be disconnected from any ground connection).

?
By "ground", do you mean the bare wire, or the Green (assuming a Duncan 4-conductor with Green as going to ground with the bare by default)?

 

[Ro_S]

Re: my draft wiring diagram - I need assistance please

Okay, below is my revised version.

I've made the change to the lipstick pick-up wiring as per Guitar Doc's advice.

I'm still doubtful about the wiring of the toggle switch I've put down for the 'JB' humbucker. I used the official S/D diagram but I want the 'slug' coil to be the one that coil splits, so I'm unsure if what I've used is still correct for that purpose.

I need the whole wiring checked over really.

version 2


link for bigger version: http://s1108.photobucket.com/user/Ro_S/media/gtr project/wiringdiagramjagproject2.jpg.html


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