Neck Bowing at Joint?
- Thread starter '59
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Chris Pile
Well-known member
Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?
Wood filler is NEVER suitable on guitars. Leave that to the cabinet makers.
Wood filler is NEVER suitable on guitars. Leave that to the cabinet makers.
Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?
What could I use as a dowel? And is titebond a suitable glue?
What could I use as a dowel? And is titebond a suitable glue?
ehdwuld
A Ficus
Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?
Hardware store - maple or oak
Hardwood dowels whatever size you need
5/16 probably plenty big
Match it to the size you drill the holes out to
Be careful not to drill too deep
Cut the towel a bit long
Slather with glue
Slather hole as well
Tap firmly into hole
Wait a day to set up
Trim excess dowel flush
Titebond is excellent
Hardware store - maple or oak
Hardwood dowels whatever size you need
5/16 probably plenty big
Match it to the size you drill the holes out to
Be careful not to drill too deep
Cut the towel a bit long
Slather with glue
Slather hole as well
Tap firmly into hole
Wait a day to set up
Trim excess dowel flush
Titebond is excellent
Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?
Depends on the screw size. I think they are #8's but not sure. https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Wood-Screws/Wood-Screw-Pilot-Hole-Size.aspx
The dowels wont need to be large diameter. Small flush cut trim saw would work to flush the dowel up. Barring that, you can probably score them deep and close to flush with a razor knife and snap them off. Then flush them up carefully with a small, sharp wood chisel, by hand. But you have to be careful not to get into the surrounding wood.
But hang on, I'm sure the luthiers have some better ideas.
Depends on the screw size. I think they are #8's but not sure. https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Wood-Screws/Wood-Screw-Pilot-Hole-Size.aspx
The dowels wont need to be large diameter. Small flush cut trim saw would work to flush the dowel up. Barring that, you can probably score them deep and close to flush with a razor knife and snap them off. Then flush them up carefully with a small, sharp wood chisel, by hand. But you have to be careful not to get into the surrounding wood.
But hang on, I'm sure the luthiers have some better ideas.
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Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?
The super glue trick only works if your screws are starting to get a little loose, but if the holes are totally stripped it will not do the trick.
Drilling out the screw holes and gluing in dowels is the best solution, but not the only thing. The simplest way to fix the problem is to use round hardwood toothpicks glued in with Titebond. Add as many toothpicks as it takes to completely fill the hole...the last toothpick should have to be hammered in. Just break off the toothpicks as they are inserted in to the holes. If they break off slightly below the surface, that is OK. If there is some wood still sticking up, just trim it with a sharp chisel or Exacto knife.
There is bound to be someone who will badmouth me for suggesting toothpicks, but if they are tightly filling the hole, this works just fine. It is a very quick and simple way to fix stripped screw holes and you eliminate the risk of drilling too far when doing the dowel fix.
The super glue trick only works if your screws are starting to get a little loose, but if the holes are totally stripped it will not do the trick.
Drilling out the screw holes and gluing in dowels is the best solution, but not the only thing. The simplest way to fix the problem is to use round hardwood toothpicks glued in with Titebond. Add as many toothpicks as it takes to completely fill the hole...the last toothpick should have to be hammered in. Just break off the toothpicks as they are inserted in to the holes. If they break off slightly below the surface, that is OK. If there is some wood still sticking up, just trim it with a sharp chisel or Exacto knife.
There is bound to be someone who will badmouth me for suggesting toothpicks, but if they are tightly filling the hole, this works just fine. It is a very quick and simple way to fix stripped screw holes and you eliminate the risk of drilling too far when doing the dowel fix.
Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?
I'd still use toothpicks...1mm means that the wooden threads in the neck ARE completely stripped.
I forgot to say that with the toothpick fix, after hammering in the last toothpick into the screw hole, you can screw the neck back in place immediately (no need to wait for the glue to set as with the dowel fix or to redrill the hole). And I guarantee that this fix will be stronger than new...especially after the glue hardens.
I'd still use toothpicks...1mm means that the wooden threads in the neck ARE completely stripped.
I forgot to say that with the toothpick fix, after hammering in the last toothpick into the screw hole, you can screw the neck back in place immediately (no need to wait for the glue to set as with the dowel fix or to redrill the hole). And I guarantee that this fix will be stronger than new...especially after the glue hardens.
Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?
You're just using the toothpicks in place of the dowel rod. Fill the stripped holes with the glued in toothpicks. But personally, I would probably wait for the glue to dry. 2 reasons. First, in case it seeps out and bonds the neck to neck pocket. And, also so it doesn't bond the screw in the hole (although I don't think it bonds well to metal). That aliphatic resin based glue bonds wood crazy good once dry.
You're just using the toothpicks in place of the dowel rod. Fill the stripped holes with the glued in toothpicks. But personally, I would probably wait for the glue to dry. 2 reasons. First, in case it seeps out and bonds the neck to neck pocket. And, also so it doesn't bond the screw in the hole (although I don't think it bonds well to metal). That aliphatic resin based glue bonds wood crazy good once dry.
RorySquier
Well-known member
Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?
I use the toothpick method also. I would wait for the glue to dry before drilling any holes.
;>)/
I use the toothpick method also. I would wait for the glue to dry before drilling any holes.
;>)/
Obsessive Compulsive
New member
Chistopher
malapterurus electricus tonewood instigator
Re: Neck Bowing at Joint?
Another trick I've always used is getting one of those sticks they put in scented oil, I forget what they are called (EDIT: they are made from sandalwood), and cut them down to the depth of the hole. Cut it into thirds and screw the neck back on as you normally would. This will force the softer wood to compress between the wood of the body and the screw. You can leave it like this if you want too, but I can't guarantee the reliability of the screws hold. You can also unscrew the neck again and do what SabbathFan recommended. That'll absorb into the wood and make it stronger.
Another trick I've always used is getting one of those sticks they put in scented oil, I forget what they are called (EDIT: they are made from sandalwood), and cut them down to the depth of the hole. Cut it into thirds and screw the neck back on as you normally would. This will force the softer wood to compress between the wood of the body and the screw. You can leave it like this if you want too, but I can't guarantee the reliability of the screws hold. You can also unscrew the neck again and do what SabbathFan recommended. That'll absorb into the wood and make it stronger.
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