Silence Kid
New member
For luthiers or anyone else who has experience... This is pertinent because I need to bounce off what a few luthiers have said to me with regard to repairing my Strat neck:
-Is it acceptable for a neck to not be able to get totally straightened using the truss rod (say, with 9 guage strings?)
-About how many degrees or turns from "neutral" should it take to get the neck totally straight? Is this number different for a dual action rod?
-Is it acceptable or expected for a neck with the rod at neutral to back-bow somewhat?
...
Now here's just me venting frustration: Know what I almost hate more than getting ripped off by repair people? Being told that there's not a problem, when there clearly is one, and being refused service. Somehow this happens to me more than you think, with amps, guitars, cars... (Example, a few years ago I took an amp in because the EQ controls and tremolo weren't functional, I came back for the amp two weeks later and the guy hooked it up to a scope to show me that "technically" the controls and tremolo did function and you could see it on a graph even if you couldn't hear it aloud... He didn't charge me, but boy was I pissed that he wouldn't fix it.)
So now my neck won't dial in flat (as is my preference,) the truss rod is near maxed, and I guess I'm supposed to deal with that, per two "luthiers?" What if I didn't use light strings; it'd be even worse! A bit less than .5mm of relief is as good as I can get when I measure between the first/last frets before I reach a "dangerous" feeling point; I have a half-dozen other guitars where the rod in neutral has about that amount of relief, do those guitars have the issue? Doesn't feel like it to me, because those guitars actually set up to my preference.
Frustrated enough to just sell the guitar at this point, if only it didn't sound/play so well otherwise. The relief thing nags on me each time I pick it up though. Anyway I'd probably get nothing for it if I properly disclosed the neck issue, especially as I got a great deal on it due to it having chips/scratches in the first place. Uggh.
-Is it acceptable for a neck to not be able to get totally straightened using the truss rod (say, with 9 guage strings?)
-About how many degrees or turns from "neutral" should it take to get the neck totally straight? Is this number different for a dual action rod?
-Is it acceptable or expected for a neck with the rod at neutral to back-bow somewhat?
...
Now here's just me venting frustration: Know what I almost hate more than getting ripped off by repair people? Being told that there's not a problem, when there clearly is one, and being refused service. Somehow this happens to me more than you think, with amps, guitars, cars... (Example, a few years ago I took an amp in because the EQ controls and tremolo weren't functional, I came back for the amp two weeks later and the guy hooked it up to a scope to show me that "technically" the controls and tremolo did function and you could see it on a graph even if you couldn't hear it aloud... He didn't charge me, but boy was I pissed that he wouldn't fix it.)
So now my neck won't dial in flat (as is my preference,) the truss rod is near maxed, and I guess I'm supposed to deal with that, per two "luthiers?" What if I didn't use light strings; it'd be even worse! A bit less than .5mm of relief is as good as I can get when I measure between the first/last frets before I reach a "dangerous" feeling point; I have a half-dozen other guitars where the rod in neutral has about that amount of relief, do those guitars have the issue? Doesn't feel like it to me, because those guitars actually set up to my preference.
Frustrated enough to just sell the guitar at this point, if only it didn't sound/play so well otherwise. The relief thing nags on me each time I pick it up though. Anyway I'd probably get nothing for it if I properly disclosed the neck issue, especially as I got a great deal on it due to it having chips/scratches in the first place. Uggh.
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