Sheronmusician
New member
oops
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Need help with correct wiring 2x P Rails in a MM Steve Morse
- Thread starter Sheronmusician
- Start date
Sheronmusician
New member
Hey jack
Firstly thank you for taking interest...
I think the written word is perhaps getting both of us confused, sorry
lets make this simpler please:
I'd like to keep the stock 5way super switch wired as it is (if at all possible)
1 - bridge
2 - bridge and middle
3 - middle
4 - bridge and neck
5 - neck
and i would like the 6 way rotary switch to be responsible only for the different splitting options on both P Rails, both together AND independently as follows
(this should work wherever the 5way is at ,any position)
1 - both P Rails humbucking - no matter what the 5WAy is doing, both P Rail will be humbucking
2 - both P Rails at P90 - no matter where the 5way is, both P Rails will be in p90
3 - both P Rails at Rail - no matter where the 5way is both P Rails will be at rail
4 - Neck on P90 and Bridge on Rail - this will give me an interesting sound when the 5way is in position 4 but this split would be the same in all 5way positions.
5 - Neck on Rail and bridge on P90 - same as previous
6 - Both P Rails on Rail and somehow the middle also added to this - this is me trying to be clever. maybe it cant be done, then let try something else here?
Essentially this is the same as option 3 but with the middle added if thats possible wiring wise?
if this isnt an option maybe just add a push pull to activate the middle whenever the 5way isnt allowing it to work and whenever im at position 4 on the 5way, the middle would then join
the ''party''? this also would allow for the middle to work with the neck (any split option) while the 5way is in position 5 as up until now
there isn't an option for this to happen any other way.
*If 6 isn't an option we can leave it open, or make both P Rails Parallel or anything creative you may have an idea for?
**added to this i can also add a pull push if needed, for anything that may be required for the above wiring (any) or to add any further option you may think of.
if i have'nt explained properly that this is what i am after my apologies, i am trying...
I have no issue dropping the parallel idea should it compromise any of the 1 through 5 options on the 6way rotary.
those i am really wanting to implement and this is i think why we are going around in circles.
i really want and need the 5way to stay as is function wise, and am needing 1-2-3-4-5 on the 6way to do exactly what im asking.
if THAT cannot be achieved with the 5way, 6way and push pull ill have to go back to the drawing board and maybe ditch the idea
and go the VERY easy route, 2 push pull knobs and ill get the normal humbucker/p90/rail and parallel/series options.
can this be done? can a close version of this be done?
thank you
Firstly thank you for taking interest...
I think the written word is perhaps getting both of us confused, sorry
lets make this simpler please:
I'd like to keep the stock 5way super switch wired as it is (if at all possible)
1 - bridge
2 - bridge and middle
3 - middle
4 - bridge and neck
5 - neck
and i would like the 6 way rotary switch to be responsible only for the different splitting options on both P Rails, both together AND independently as follows
(this should work wherever the 5way is at ,any position)
1 - both P Rails humbucking - no matter what the 5WAy is doing, both P Rail will be humbucking
2 - both P Rails at P90 - no matter where the 5way is, both P Rails will be in p90
3 - both P Rails at Rail - no matter where the 5way is both P Rails will be at rail
4 - Neck on P90 and Bridge on Rail - this will give me an interesting sound when the 5way is in position 4 but this split would be the same in all 5way positions.
5 - Neck on Rail and bridge on P90 - same as previous
6 - Both P Rails on Rail and somehow the middle also added to this - this is me trying to be clever. maybe it cant be done, then let try something else here?
Essentially this is the same as option 3 but with the middle added if thats possible wiring wise?
if this isnt an option maybe just add a push pull to activate the middle whenever the 5way isnt allowing it to work and whenever im at position 4 on the 5way, the middle would then join
the ''party''? this also would allow for the middle to work with the neck (any split option) while the 5way is in position 5 as up until now
there isn't an option for this to happen any other way.
*If 6 isn't an option we can leave it open, or make both P Rails Parallel or anything creative you may have an idea for?
**added to this i can also add a pull push if needed, for anything that may be required for the above wiring (any) or to add any further option you may think of.
if i have'nt explained properly that this is what i am after my apologies, i am trying...
I have no issue dropping the parallel idea should it compromise any of the 1 through 5 options on the 6way rotary.
those i am really wanting to implement and this is i think why we are going around in circles.
i really want and need the 5way to stay as is function wise, and am needing 1-2-3-4-5 on the 6way to do exactly what im asking.
if THAT cannot be achieved with the 5way, 6way and push pull ill have to go back to the drawing board and maybe ditch the idea
and go the VERY easy route, 2 push pull knobs and ill get the normal humbucker/p90/rail and parallel/series options.
can this be done? can a close version of this be done?
thank you
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Jack_TriPpEr
New member
I did understand all that already, thanks.
I did some more sketching and found a way to give you all the combinations you requested plus parallel mode for the two prails without changing how the 5 way blade works.
1. So, the 5 way blade keeps the same positions/functionality that it has now.
2. The rotary switch works as you requested for positions 1 thru 5.
3. Rotary switch position 6 puts each Prail in parallel mode
4. The master volumr gets changed to a push-pull switch that when pulled up, adds the output of the middle pickup to whatever is selected by the 5 way blade.
5. Because of what #4 above does, this means when the MV P/P is pulled up and the 5 way blade is set to Position 5, you get Neck and Middle. It also means when the MV P/P is pulled up and the 5 way blade is set to Position 4, you get all three pickups active. If you want the Neck and Bridge to be set to just the Rail coils in Position 4, you would also need to set the Rotary switch to Position 3.
Sound good?
Sheronmusician
New member
SUPERSTAR!!!!!
thank you
thank you
Jack_TriPpEr
New member
SUPERSTAR!!!!!
thank you
Great. Send me a private message to discuss further.
In response to your original post, I would reply...WHY?
In all practicality, you will never use all of those options. And even if you DO, you will not be able to hear the difference in many of the options, especially in live performances. And if you are indeed looking for very subtle tone differences for recording, there are way simpler solutions.
In all practicality, you will never use all of those options. And even if you DO, you will not be able to hear the difference in many of the options, especially in live performances. And if you are indeed looking for very subtle tone differences for recording, there are way simpler solutions.
Sheronmusician
New member
I'm sorry, i dont want sound like an arse, but if you cant/dont/wont hear the sound difference between the different splits i need and want then i am sorry that is you and only you.
theres a huge difference in all those options, and i specifically want those for live.
of course i will use all these options, i have such a wide range of cover songs in my repertoire that i definitely will
use 80% of those in every single gig.
sorry bro, i hear all those differences.
I'd gladly upload sound files for you when ill be done with the wiring.
actually ill do a review vid on my youtube channel and link back here
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Sheronmusician
New member
I do like, no , love the guitar. But i have been a strat/super strat player
and much of my sound live relies on having single coils and P90s, the humbuckers are too dark for most of my songs but are great for some..
I do have a few different musicman guitars giving me all that, but this upgrade will give me the option to use mostly this one guitar for most of my gigs
instead of jumping between guitars as i often do.
Once this upgrade is done ill be just missing a tremolo and for that i have a couple of other guitars that ill take as number 2 for gigs.
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Gotcha. Morse has a pretty dark sound, which is why I like him. I don't own any Morse guitars, but my 2 Music Mans are my favs.
Sheronmusician
New member
which ones do you have?
I think the dark lord has a different neck than the normal Y2D, if what i read on the net is true it has a 59 LP style neck which works for my hands well.
it also looks unique with the reverse headstock, it is quite beautiful, a little heavier than my other EBMMs and also a little bigger in body size.
Honestly i would have rather put these PUs in my 1999 Axis Sport P90s but for that to happen I'd have to route and deface a guitar and because it has
no scratchplate I'd need to add one. will pretty much ruin the guitar, stock wise.
Johnny Highland has exactly the same guitar and it worked for him great but i dont know. i have this thing with thinking i should't deface such
good guitars, let alone not know if it's gonna work well and be what im looking for, with the dark lord i can put it back together and no one would know
i upgraded at all.
I have a Silhouette Special I modified with 2 humbuckers and scalloped frets. The other is an early 2000's SUB1 made in the USA. It has this cool textured paint that shifts colors. Both are excellent instruments.
Sheronmusician
New member
Awesome! I have a Silhouette Special as well. One of my Favorites!
There's a normal Silhouette for sale locally now but im not crazy about the HSH config. I much prefer the HSS.
Post a pic of your SS!
Sheronmusician
New member
I cant upload anything i dont know why it wont let me
Well, what color is it? Mine is pearl blue. The SUB1 is Cinnamon.
Sheronmusician
New member
Burst.
I had two identical ones, dont ask me how i actually got two exactly the same, pure dumb luck, same color and all, in fact they were built 16 days apart from each other.
they were similar enough in feel, playability and sound but for some reason i only really ''connected'' with one so sold the other to a friend of mine.
Sheronmusician
New member
Wow, that sounds vastly different than any stock Morse I've ever played!
