New Idea for a Strat Build

Re: New Idea for a Strat Build

New 2 and New 5 are right up my alley. I’d build #2 today if I had that body! But I love vintage Charvels as much as vintage Fenders.
 
Re: New Idea for a Strat Build

Getting closer and closer to picking a pair of Wilde L-500s for this guitar. :D

In that case, the choice is black or cream. :D

Also, I discovered a way to render the pickguard more accurately to the way it will be. Single ply burgundy celluloid with a black foil shield behind it.

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Re: New Idea for a Strat Build

I kinda like the cream better...but I think solid brushed chrome would look cool too.
 
Re: New Idea for a Strat Build

Well, it's decided. The pickups have been ordered. A pair of L-500Cs, double black with chrome surrounds. Planning on mounting to the guard at first. Mounting rings might go on later if that doesn't look good.

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Re: New Idea for a Strat Build

Can’t wait to see the finished product!

Me too!

One thing going for the project is that I already own the neck I'm going to use, complete with hardware. And it's already finished, so all I need to do is paint the headstock face. That makes it a much cheaper project.
 
Re: New Idea for a Strat Build

Well, it's decided. The pickups have been ordered. A pair of L-500Cs, double black with chrome surrounds. Planning on mounting to the guard at first. Mounting rings might go on later if that doesn't look good.

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Well, that was quick! Just got a shipment notification for the pickups. I had read that Wilde wait times were up to six weeks.
 
Just ordered the bridge/vibrato.

Went with a Hipshot Contour – my first time using one on a project.

The trim rings on the Wildes are chrome, so I went with chrome instead of nickel. Also, Hipshot is backed up with orders, and no one has the nickel ones in stock right now, so chrome works out better anyhow. The Sperzel tuners on the MIM neck I'll be using are nickel, but hopefully the difference isn't too noticeable.

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I almost picked that Hipshot, too, but eventually went with a Bladerunner. Let us know how the Hipshot turns out.
 
I almost picked that Hipshot, too, but eventually went with a Bladerunner. Let us know how the Hipshot turns out.

Funny, the same guitar that the neck is coming off of has a nickel plated Bladerunner on it. I thought about using it just to save money, but I dislike the thing so much. Spent $160 + on it eight years ago, and can't really get rid of the thing very effectively (used market stinks, and no one wants to trade), so it has stayed in place. But when I thought about putting it on this new build, I decided I'd rather spend $110 on a Hipshot instead. It's not a very good sign when someone would rather spend $110 on something different than to re-use you, even when you're in like-new condition.
 
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My Bladerunner works pretty well, especially since I replaced the nut. My favorite remains the original Wilkinson, though.
 
My Bladerunner works pretty well, especially since I replaced the nut. My favorite remains the original Wilkinson, though.

The Bladerunner works for me, as in it is not total garbage. But its build quality and materials are not very high end for the price. You can get better built vibratos, built by hand in the U.S.A., out of clearly specified materials, for less. E.g. Callaham or Hipshot. Bladerunner are made in China, and – at least when I ordered mine – the Bladerunner materials used were not specified.

I also have problems with how far back the pivot/hinge point is. It makes for odd vibrato geometry if you float the vibrato. For those who deck it, it's probably fine. When you float, the bridge plate sits at a fairly extreme angle, and thus responds too quickly when diving. I feel like those who float would benefit from shims under the mounting plate. That way you could pull up or down, but keep the bridge plate parallel to the fretboard (like a two point vibrato).

Also, something about the saddle geometry of the pivot point being so far back and the bride plate sitting at such a steep angle makes it so a few of the saddles can barely intonate while remaining on the bridge plate. If I went to lighter strings than my 11s, the D saddle would want to be off the front end of the bridge plate and over the spring.

And, when my new Bladerunner arrived, the intonation screws were so cheaply made that more than half of the saddle height screws were effectively stripped out – so softly cut that an Allen wrench wouldn't grab the sides of the holes. The Allen wrench they supplied was total Chinese junk – also soft sided. But even with a quality Allen wrench of the right size, there was slippage in the height screws. They set me a batch of replacements, and 1/3 of those were bad too. In the end, I was able to get it working with 10 decent height screws and two so-so ones.

I feel like the design is something that can be got used to and worked around. But the materials and build quality are unacceptable at that price. It's like they designed a vibrato that would have been nice if nicely built in house...and then immediately turned around and outsourced a cheap-o version of it, at what should have been the price for an in-house unit.

Bottom line, it's not complete garbage on an absolute level...but for the price, it is. It should be an $80 piece of hardware.
 
I was wanting to try one of these ever since Mincer first mentioned them. And I was thinking of offering you a trade for a Hipshot. But now, you've talked me out of it. Sorry. :D
 
I almost went for one for a Bladerunner when they first came out but after a while I realized I don't even use the trem to begin with. I have the trems decked and with 4 springs tight to keep it down. So in the end, it would've been a waste of money for me. The Gotoh 6-screw vintage trem from Warmoth suits me just fine.
 
The Bladerunner works for me, as in it is not total garbage. But its build quality and materials are not very high end for the price. You can get better built vibratos, built by hand in the U.S.A., out of clearly specified materials, for less. E.g. Callaham or Hipshot. Bladerunner are made in China, and – at least when I ordered mine – the Bladerunner materials used were not specified.

I also have problems with how far back the pivot/hinge point is. It makes for odd vibrato geometry if you float the vibrato. For those who deck it, it's probably fine. When you float, the bridge plate sits at a fairly extreme angle, and thus responds too quickly when diving. I feel like those who float would benefit from shims under the mounting plate. That way you could pull up or down, but keep the bridge plate parallel to the fretboard (like a two point vibrato).

Also, something about the saddle geometry of the pivot point being so far back and the bride plate sitting at such a steep angle makes it so a few of the saddles can barely intonate while remaining on the bridge plate. If I went to lighter strings than my 11s, the D saddle would want to be off the front end of the bridge plate and over the spring.

And, when my new Bladerunner arrived, the intonation screws were so cheaply made that more than half of the saddle height screws were effectively stripped out – so softly cut that an Allen wrench wouldn't grab the sides of the holes. The Allen wrench they supplied was total Chinese junk – also soft sided. But even with a quality Allen wrench of the right size, there was slippage in the height screws. They set me a batch of replacements, and 1/3 of those were bad too. In the end, I was able to get it working with 10 decent height screws and two so-so ones.

I feel like the design is something that can be got used to and worked around. But the materials and build quality are unacceptable at that price. It's like they designed a vibrato that would have been nice if nicely built in house...and then immediately turned around and outsourced a cheap-o version of it, at what should have been the price for an in-house unit.

Bottom line, it's not complete garbage on an absolute level...but for the price, it is. It should be an $80 piece of hardware.

Interesting...I have mine set to float, but didn't encounter any problems with its use. It is a very smooth bridge, and looks good. I don't know if it is 'better' than others, but mine does work as advertised, and I've never had issues with it.
 
How about a Coodercaster? Lollar will make the pickups.
 

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Well, I am bumping this because there has been a development. I have set aside the idea of using my MIM Strat neck, and purchased this two-piece rosewood neck for the project. 10" radius, medium frets, thick U profile (almost 1"), "vintage" slab style, with a heel adjusting rod and the smooth, uninterrupted headstock transition that goes with it. Not yet sure of the finishing process that I'll use, but it might involve a light burgundy dye and an oil finish to make it warmer, darker, and more even. But if it is a good match to the celluloid tort pickguard material, I'll likely just oil it.

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That's nice. You may not even need to oil it. Rosewood necks don't usually require any finish at all because the wood has a natural oil to it. I played a Tele with an all rosewood neck once and it felt so smooth.
 
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