New Project Strat Day!

Re: New Project Strat Day!

Edit:
Not real quick
I printed mine walked back to the desk
Went and found the tape
Wandered round chatted
Came back taped it up
Rubbed it in and trimmed it
All together about 20 mins

Rub it good into the paper
I used the rubber end of the scissors

Trim it out

The warm water makes the paper dissolve

It will curl in the water

Pinch it between your fingers and rubb the paper
While it is immersed in the water

At a point about 3 to 4 mins

The paper will roll up and off
Keep rubbing gently till all the paper is gone

The tape won't be sticky
Because it's wet

Once you have all the paper off

Place.it and rub it on

Like I said print several try a few
It really is easy
 
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Re: New Project Strat Day!

Well fellas, I hate to say it, but I think I prefer the thinner bodies on Bullets to full thickness. When I was sanding I also intentionally gave the contours smoother edges, which made the body even more comfortable. I also completely got rid of the plasticy feel of the finish, let's hope I can get close to maintaining that feel when I finish painting.
 
Re: New Project Strat Day!

I too like thin Fender bodies, a la Mustang, Musicman, and very early Esquires (the black NAMM and demo models). When doing Fender builds from scratch, I often use a 1-1/2" blank instead of a typical 1-3/4" blank. Feels nicer for one thing, and for another, it shaves off at least 1/7 of what the the 1-3/4" body weight would have been, without needing to chamber the body. On a typical-weight Fender body, that's half a pound or more.
 
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Re: New Project Strat Day!

Well fellas, I hate to say it, but I think I prefer the thinner bodies on Bullets to full thickness. When I was sanding I also intentionally gave the contours smoother edges, which made the body even more comfortable. I also completely got rid of the plasticy feel of the finish, let's hope I can get close to maintaining that feel when I finish painting.

Let us know how you find the tone plywood.
 
Re: New Project Strat Day!

I don't care how good a guitar sounds or plays, plywood is plywood.

Just make sure you keep moisture at bay 24/7; otherwise it will swell.
 
Re: New Project Strat Day!

Regarding GFS pickups...I've tried nearly a dozen and been pleasantly surprised by each of them (especially: Mean 90 b&n, Dream 90 b&n, Dream 180 b&n, Gold foil humbuckers -with alnico mags b&n, WideTone Fat humbucker neck, 10k Tele bridge pup, Vintage 59 humbucker neck -this one seems a bit too overwound for me.
 
Re: New Project Strat Day!

The GFS Badass wraparound is a really good bridge. But you need locking posts to secure it better so it doesn't tip so badly.

http://www.philadelphialuthiertools...dge-posts-for-hp-and-pinnacle-bridges-nickel/

I think that's the type of posts that come with it, no?

Edit: I emailed them and they quickly responded saying that I have to buy the locking studs separately, but the ones they sell won't fit. Are there any other ways to prevent bridge wobble?
 
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Re: New Project Strat Day!

Going back to the shimming issue...

A Fender factory style shim, i.e. a shim that sits at the back of the neck pocket, can in some cases actually warp the butt end of a neck over the life of the guitar, such that the end of the neck ramps slightly upward. This is especially likely to happen if the neck screws are really tightened down hard. You are better off cutting a slightly wedged piece of maple (or of your guitar's body material). It needs to go forward enough in the pocket to cover the two rear neck screws, but it's best if you can cover the entire pocket.

The easiest way to do this is to put a slight angle (maybe half a degree to start) on a table saw blade, and pass a blank of maple through the saw, with the wood standing on the end grain (i.e. orient the wood grain running up and down between ceiling and floor). Make that cut first. The slice that comes off should work for your shim, if the blank was cut perfectly squarely to begin with. But cut another off the blank for a backup, and so you don't leave a blank of wood lying around that has a slight angle on it that you might not notice during a future project. Level the blade. Pass the blank through again, with the guide positioned slightly closer to the blade, such that the previous wedge cut gets sawn through near the top of the blank (causing the shim to taper off into nothingness). Start with a blank that is well oversized. It's easier to wrangle the blank through the table saw to get what you need that way.
 
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Re: New Project Strat Day!

I was an authorized Fender tech back in the stone age. Fender used a piece of sanding screen as a shim in their neck pockets (about a 1/2 wide by 2 inches long). It didn't compress, and the abrasive kept the neck from moving around in the pocket. No idea what they use these days.
 
Re: New Project Strat Day!

Or maybe it was just the bone nut in the guitar.
 
Re: New Project Strat Day!

I think Wilkinson hardware is a fairly priced budget friendly move. Dirt cheap? No, but solid and dependable and you get what you pay for
 
Re: New Project Strat Day!

Update: So I got the holes drilled all perfectly for the bridge and the problem I assumed was going to happen did. The pickguard did not play nice with the bridge (er... at all) and now I need to reshape it. The good news is that isn't too much of an issue. The other good news is I found out why EVH most likely butchered his pickguard. It probably wasn't because he thought wood mount pickups had better tone, it was because his new Floyd Rose didn't fit his old pickguard.
 
Re: New Project Strat Day!

Update: So I got the holes drilled all perfectly for the bridge and the problem I assumed was going to happen did. The pickguard did not play nice with the bridge (er... at all) and now I need to reshape it. The good news is that isn't too much of an issue. The other good news is I found out why EVH most likely butchered his pickguard. It probably wasn't because he thought wood mount pickups had better tone, it was because his new Floyd Rose didn't fit his old pickguard.

I was legit about to start another thread about this very topic, how does one go about reshaping a pickguard? And how do you get the bevel on the edge?
 
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