nut trouble
- Thread starter ex-250
- Start date
rspst14
Tone Cat
Re: nut trouble
I use the #20 cyanoacrylate adhesive from Stewart Macdonald, although regular wood glue or super glue will do just fine. Some people have used regular white Elmers glue with good results, but for me, it never gave a tight enough bond. First, I would carefully scrape any excess dried glue out of the nut slot. Then put a thin layer of glue in the slot, attach the nut (making sure that it's correctly centered of course,) use your fingers to hold the nut down until the glue has mostly dried, and then let it sit overnight to fully dry before putting new strings on.
Ryan
I use the #20 cyanoacrylate adhesive from Stewart Macdonald, although regular wood glue or super glue will do just fine. Some people have used regular white Elmers glue with good results, but for me, it never gave a tight enough bond. First, I would carefully scrape any excess dried glue out of the nut slot. Then put a thin layer of glue in the slot, attach the nut (making sure that it's correctly centered of course,) use your fingers to hold the nut down until the glue has mostly dried, and then let it sit overnight to fully dry before putting new strings on.
Ryan
T
theodie
Guest
Re: nut trouble
Thats the same way I do it. Works good for me.
rspst14 said:
Thats the same way I do it. Works good for me.
Re: nut trouble
My P.O. Box is ............ Make payable to ....... :laugh2:
It's probably not a strong a bond as other stuff (not sure what one would use to afix brass), but the bond doesn't need to be imprevious to and all out assault with a hammer. Normally a little acetone and a few taps with a light mallet and she slides right out.
JohnJohn said:
My P.O. Box is ............ Make payable to ....... :laugh2:
It's probably not a strong a bond as other stuff (not sure what one would use to afix brass), but the bond doesn't need to be imprevious to and all out assault with a hammer. Normally a little acetone and a few taps with a light mallet and she slides right out.
Re: nut trouble
I let the solvent seep into the crevice to weaken the adhesive( applied from a pipette or syringe), wiping up excess, then I generally tap mine out from the side with a small brass hammer, or brass punch and small mallet.
Sometimes a little from one side (low e), and a little from the other (high e) works, the important thing is to break the seal first ... then it can be slide out, or lifted out with padded alligator grips on either end (this is a judgement call though, much better with brass nuts ... graphite, plastic, and bone ...err, use your best judgement).
I also, am not saying thi is or is not considered a *proper* way to do it, it works for me ... I'd like to hear John John's take on this.
NT02 said:
I let the solvent seep into the crevice to weaken the adhesive( applied from a pipette or syringe), wiping up excess, then I generally tap mine out from the side with a small brass hammer, or brass punch and small mallet.
Sometimes a little from one side (low e), and a little from the other (high e) works, the important thing is to break the seal first ... then it can be slide out, or lifted out with padded alligator grips on either end (this is a judgement call though, much better with brass nuts ... graphite, plastic, and bone ...err, use your best judgement).
I also, am not saying thi is or is not considered a *proper* way to do it, it works for me ... I'd like to hear John John's take on this.
