OFR vs. Wilkinson/locking tuners

OFR vs. Wilkinson/locking tuners

  • an Original Floyd Rose locking trem

    Votes: 10 52.6%
  • a Wilkinson with locking tuners and a special nut.

    Votes: 6 31.6%
  • ...something else

    Votes: 3 15.8%

  • Total voters
    19
Re: OFR vs. Wilkinson/locking tuners

korinastratkyle said:
Same thing happened when I did that with my Alvarez! You mean just so it doesn't go up, right?

Yup, I can still use the trem but cant pull up on it... I also put five springs on it and set them tight.
 
Re: OFR vs. Wilkinson/locking tuners

My wilkinson will dive bomb to the point of having slack and flatulent strings. It will pull up pretty decent too, though it won't quite match what a OFR will do. Wilkinson is the perfect balance between performance and convenience. It's easier to deal with than an OFR. Less hassle and more playing enjoyment. Performance is almost as good. You definitely get warmer tone than OFR and I think you get better sustain too.
 
Re: OFR vs. Wilkinson/locking tuners

Zerberus said:
The Schallers are just as good as an OFR. The tone is warmer, and they´re a bit less responsive. Pure preference, I use both regularly ;)

Is the tone warmer because it lacks treble or because it's fuller in the bottom end?

How's the sustain?

What exactly do you mean by "less responsive" ?

I'f i could get an Ibanez Edge or Edge II that would be great. Those things are just as good as an OFR and they play a bit easier too but last time i looked getting one wasn't very easy.
 
Re: OFR vs. Wilkinson/locking tuners

Mincer said:
the Wilkinson...I can change strings in a few seconds with no wrenches, and I can divebomb till the strings are slack and return in tune. It is lighter than a Floyd and doesn't go out of tune when you rest your hand on it.

Exactly, i prefer the wilkinson as well.

I also prefer blue Brian Moore guitars
 
Re: OFR vs. Wilkinson/locking tuners

MattPete said:
C'mon, Zerb! You of all people should know that you don't have to cut off the ball ends (I haven't done that in 15 years). You just string it backwards, putting the unballed end through the tuning pegs, under the locking nut, and into the locking saddles.

....and if you dont want either half a yard of string dangling off the headstock (or 6 BUFUGLY little coils, one per tuner), you still have to cut off part of the string. And whaddaya know, there´s the Ball-end, on that half :22: :sword: :D

But for people that aren´t bothered by what I consider an unsightly mess, you´re correct, depending on string. GHS Boomers for example have such a long unwound length that not shortening them would cause the windings to start over the bridge or even middle pickup, resulting in a few unwanted problems (inconsistent tone and string breakage, to name just 2).

And some manufacturers also "crimp" the plain part immediately aftrer the winding. If you lock that end into your saddle, the string "should" break within a week at best.

For these reasons and then some, I stand by my statement, because in 2 out of 5 cases doing it "your way" may cause problems. Doesn´t make you less right, though. :friday:

And B2D: Warmer because, as RID stated, the compressed steel baseplate rolls off some of the highs.

Responsive: just "feels" different, more "sluggish" to me. In the sense of that I feel I need to "Whammy" a bit farther to get to the same place.

Sustain is pretty much the same, but the mounting length of the Schaller is 1/16" shorter. This may or may not pose a problem for you ;)
 
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