Following for definitive answer on this.
OP: good luck on soldering in that vlx91. Watch out for solder leakage between pads. It'll cause all sorts of problems if you don't.
I use oak grigsby super switches instead to avoid this potential issue, and I know it will.
Best advice I took was get a soldering iron with a sharp point and adjustable heat.
Super thin solder works well too.
Everything became much easier when I dumped my old fat tipped iron and quit using the fat solder.
Like night and day
What I'm finding is that D and G are just part of the part numbers of what Ibanez uses (you can get them as replacement parts). Unknown if the letters directly relate to the taper, but I'm sure they correlate to the differences. If they directly refer to the taper, it might be the Romaji spelling of the Japanese words for those terms. Also what I'm finding is that Ibanez appears to use audio taper for volume and linear taper for tone (which is the opposite of conventional wisdom I'm aware of, YMMV.)
All of my guitars came that way. Not Ibanez. Afaik, that's standard procedure. Audio taper volume and linear taper tone. All the guitars I've ever seen are either all audio taper or audio taper(250/500KA) for volume and linear taper(250/500KB) for tone.
I've done this switch before, its never fun. I have to use it because its low profile and fits in the sabre.
Thanks for reminder to change my tip.
All of my guitars came that way. Not Ibanez. Afaik, that's standard procedure. Audio taper volume and linear taper tone. All the guitars I've ever seen are either all audio taper or audio taper(250/500KA) for volume and linear taper(250/500KB) for tone.
All the ibanez guitars come with B for volume, and A for tone afaik. Except this diagram might suggest something else.
Because 90% of my pickup swaps and experience have been with those, that is what I will use.
Just wanted to make sure D and G were not a different kind of pot from A and B.