Re: Opening up my amp
You shouldn't have to open the amp up to get to the reverb cables unless Fender is doing odd ball stuff again, that said make sure the amp is left on, then strum a chord and unlpug the amp from the wall ... without turning the power switch off, let it die out. It's cheesy, but it works, there are normally four to six retaining screw/bolts (4 on top, metal flange plates) on the top, and smaller screws along the back of the chassis (the actual head of the amp), take a look see, and start unscrewing. Support the chasssis as some will fall and bend the insert threads for the bolts.When all retaining bolts/screws are out slide the chassis back to you and lower it away from the amp.You'll probably have to disconnect the speakers, if you plan on *benching* it for active tests, bear in mind that a load must be connected to the speakers, and an isolation transformer is a real good idea from a safety standpoint ... at least it lowers the risk of you dying should something go wrong. Don't touch the filter caps (the big capacitors) as they may still be able to zap you pretty good. To check the cables though you shouldn't have to go inside the amp, most tanks just plug in underneath the chassis via RCA style couplers ... but then again I not familiar with the 160 ... I had a Stage Lead II 2-12 (glad I sold it), and it's tank/pan plugged in just like the old Fenders. If you are not versed in electronics work, and safety procedures then just poking around in there probably won't do any good, unless you just luck out and find say a strip/pin connector that came loose. The cables you can check with a meter to see if they are shorted or open, and you can look for burned traces or loose connections inside (use something non-conductive ... not your finger ), if you find something and aren't sure how to proceed then make a note of it, and take it to a tech.
