Permanent Way to Darken or "Ebonize" a Rosewood Fretboard?

Masta' C

Well-known member
Any tips on the best way to "ebonize" or permanently darken an annoyingly light rosewood fretboard? I've tried oiling it, but it's just a very light piece of wood overall.

I know traditional stains can wear through with playing, but are there some that are better/more durable for a fretboard than others?

Also, this neck has white binding and white inlays...would prefer not to damage them if possible.

Any tips or suggestions are greatly appreciated!

:beerchug:
 
I've heard of people using dye (like a leather dye or the dye that stew mac sells) with good results. You have to be careful when applying it though, if your inlays and binding are plastic I believe that the dye will darken them.
 
As has been mentioned, it can be a tricky operation to keep the binding and inlays clean. Plus, if you've already oiled your board some dyes may not get absorbed evenly or deep enough to be "permanent". And the dyes that WILL work will wreak havoc on the binding and inlays.
 
Good to know!

It's a white guitar with matching white binding and white inlays...I'd hate to mess up the look, but the pale fretboard looks "cheap" to me.

Is there a good product for darkening (rather than going full black) that won't mess up the inlays? Looks like leather dye and india ink may be a bit heavy-handed for this purpose?
 
The dye Stew-Mac sells is (IIRC) actually india ink?

I use Fiebings and Angelus dyes extensively (I make holsters) and they are VERY colorfast?

Larry

I make holsters as well and Fiebings is the first thing that came to mind for me. I've used it on a few sets of grips as well. I do believe it would stain the binding/inlays though.
 
If you're buying India ink you have to be careful. Some of the black colours sold have a bluish tinge to them and would probably not work great, some are a true black.
 
Tough it out, it will probably never come out like you like it.

I feel your pain though, I used to like light boards, now I cant stand them.
 
As has been mentioned, it can be a tricky operation to keep the binding and inlays clean. Plus, if you've already oiled your board some dyes may not get absorbed evenly or deep enough to be "permanent". And the dyes that WILL work will wreak havoc on the binding and inlays.

this!
your fingerboard is already soaked with finger fat and oil...

I done it both with the Fiebing black leather dye stew mac sold before the indian inc.
Both work great on raw, untreated wood.

I tried it on a used and already oiled MiM Strat neck for testing and had to redo the finish because i f*** it up.
The color is coming off of the fretboard slightly over month and years and you always will have dirty fingers.​
 
Yeah, it sounds a bit risky on this particularly white beast.

Even if the inlays got darkened a bit by accident, it would look "off". I'll just try to enjoy it as-is.

You guys have been super helpful. Thank you!
 
Montypresso works well on actual rosewood, darkens it several shades - and you can do repeat applications if desired.
It's been hit-or-miss for me on pau ferro, perhaps depending on the tightness of the grain and how it was treated in the factory.
Worked nicely for me on one pau ferro board but hardly did anything on another.

Stew-Mac also sells a fretboard darkening oil - not the dye for ebonizing, a separate product for darkening.
You can make your own using ith a light grade of mineral oil ('white oil' or lamp oil) and some artist's oil paint.
.
 
The hard part is NOT darkening the fretboard. There are many products to choose from and some will even work on oily boards.
The hard/impossible part is keeping the inlays bright. Doesn't matter whether they are pearl, pearloid, plastic, clay, etc. I've tried carefully waxing the inlays, which definitely kept them from absorbing any stain, but it's impossible to get the wax perfectly/completely/only on the inlays.
 
I wonder if you could just scrape the top off the inlays after dying to expose bright material again.
 
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