Phase 90 mods? True Bypass/Script Mod

[beggar_guitar]

How much would this mod run, and where could I get it done?
Does anyone on the board do these?

I've got a Phase 90 on the cheap, and would like to sweeten it up a bit.

 

[Blue_Fingers_Jay]

Re: Phase 90 mods? True Bypass/Script Mod

Don't know about the true bypass (I think you have to change the switch and solder a couple of wires but not really sure).
The script mod is very easy, the one i did at least is, just remove a resistor, you can add a switch between the resistor and the board that way you can change between the script and stock version, I tried that and eventually just removed the switch because I ended up only using the script version, so me tip is don't drill the case until you test out both versions.
This mod doesn't turn a Phase 90 into an exact Script version but sounds great to me and I'm happy I did it.
The one I did was taken from here:
http://www.erikhansen.net/?page_id=31
As I said before I ended up by just removing a resistor, I liked it better that way you, but different folks different strokes.
The mod is simple and if you can solder you should be able to do it easily.

 

[ErikH]

Re: Phase 90 mods? True Bypass/Script Mod

Don't even bother trying to make it true bypass. It's not worth the time and effort. If you have the orange block logo Phase 90 RI (meaning current build), then just build a true bypass box for it. Leave the pedal on all the time and just switch back and forth with the true bypass box. It's 4 mono jacks and a DPDT or 3PDT if you want an LED indicator (requires 9V DC power). If you have the EVH Phase 90, leave it be, it's fine as-is. The bypass appears to be better in it than the orange one too.

 

[J Moose]

Re: Phase 90 mods? True Bypass/Script Mod

The one I did was taken from here:
http://www.erikhansen.net/?page_id=31

As I said before I ended up by just removing a resistor, I liked it better that way you, but different folks different strokes.

How exactly did that change the tone? Does it make the sweep 'deeper' or just more obvious? I have a fairly recent orange dunlop & it feels a little 'watered down' for lack of a better term...

 

[Blue_Fingers_Jay]

Re: Phase 90 mods? True Bypass/Script Mod

How exactly did that change the tone? Does it make the sweep 'deeper' or just more obvious? I have a fairly recent orange dunlop & it feels a little 'watered down' for lack of a better term...

To my ears it made it made the sweep smoother, maybe a bit warmer too.
Before the mod I felt that there was almost a boost in the mid frequencies, now it sounds like it's better balanced.
I can try and record some samples, they will be probably be crappy but they should give you a nice idea.

 

[Rich_S]

Re: Phase 90 mods? True Bypass/Script Mod

I can try and record some samples, they will be probably be crappy but they should give you a nice idea.

Please do. I, too have a recent Phase 90 (standard model) sitting on my bench awaiting mods. I need to decide if I'm going to do the script mod and be done with it, or put in a toggle switch for stock/script.

Versatility is nice, but some recent experiences have taught me that drilling up a stompbox and installing a rat's nest inside is stupid if the switch is going to remain in the same position all the time.

 

[ErikH]

Re: Phase 90 mods? True Bypass/Script Mod

I will tell y'all from experience. Make sure you have the de-soldering pump ready or plenty of de-soldering braid. The PCB's in the reissue models are multi-layered and thick. It takes a bit to get all the solder removed to pull R28 out without actually clipping the legs.

I will emphasize that removing R28 will not make it a script logo Phase 90, as mentioned on my site. There's way more involved and frankly, it's not worth making all those changes unless you're extremely bored off your rocker...LOL.

 

[J Moose]

Re: Phase 90 mods? True Bypass/Script Mod

When I remove R28, do I need to put a jumper in place or will it work without one?

 

[ErikH]

Re: Phase 90 mods? True Bypass/Script Mod

No jumper necessary. Just take it out. Better to desolder the connections though in case you want to put it back.

 

[Blue_Fingers_Jay]

Re: Phase 90 mods? True Bypass/Script Mod

Please do. I, too have a recent Phase 90 (standard model) sitting on my bench awaiting mods. I need to decide if I'm going to do the script mod and be done with it, or put in a toggle switch for stock/script.

Versatility is nice, but some recent experiences have taught me that drilling up a stompbox and installing a rat's nest inside is stupid if the switch is going to remain in the same position all the time.

Will do.
Can't today because it's nightime and i have to figure out how to record the samples.
Prolly gonna use the headphone out and the mic in thing.

 

[Blue_Fingers_Jay]

Re: Phase 90 mods? True Bypass/Script Mod

I will emphasize that removing R28 will not make it a script logo Phase 90, as mentioned on my site. There's way more involved and frankly, it's not worth making all those changes unless you're extremely bored off your rocker...LOL.

I had no idea it was your site.
Great site you've got there!
Good mods and very easy to follow.
Thank you

 

[ErikH]

Re: Phase 90 mods? True Bypass/Script Mod

I had no idea it was your site.
Great site you've got there!
Good mods and very easy to follow.
Thank you

Yup, that would be me...LOL. Thanks for the reference. It's nice to see the stuff is being looked it. That page is probably the most popular one on the site. Lots of links to it from other places as well.

 

[Rich_S]

Re: Phase 90 mods? True Bypass/Script Mod

I modded my generic recent-issue Phase 90 the other night. I like it a lot better with R28 removed. As others have said, the pedal had a wierd mid-spike that would make a certain part of the sweep JUMP OUT at you. With R28 out, the sweep is smoother and the effect a bit more subtle. I installed a toggle switch; I figure I might want an unsubtle effect occasionally, and having the switch is an outward indication that , "Hey - I'm cool... I mod my pedals." :lmao:

That said, I'll probably leave in in the "Script" position most of the time. The downside of making it switchable is you have to preserve the resistor, rather than just clipping it out. As ErikH warned, unsoldering parts from MXR's double-sided board in a bee-otch.

I tried getting C11 out, too. I fought with it for a long time, and used about 6 feet of solder braid. Eventually, the lead broke right above the board, so I had a little capacitor/knife switch that I couild experiment with. I could lift the cap up to disconnect it, then push it back down to put it back in the circuit. I played with it for a long time (having three hands would have made it easier). The "C11 in" position is a bit brighter. Since my rig is pretty bright overall, I decided to leave the cap out for a slightly more mellow tone.

I never got around to messing with C12 - the pedal is pretty good as-is.

To me, the high-water marks for Phase shifter tone are Andy Summers (Hole in my Life) and Frampton Comes Alive. Both used Phase 90's. I don't know how I've gotten through 35 years of playing without ever having a Phaser before. Someday, I'd like to A/B my bargain-priced mod pedal with an original script model or custom shop reissue, but for now, this one sounds pretty good.

Stay tuned for pics of the latest pedalboard revision, coming soon.

 

[Rich_S]

Re: Phase 90 mods? True Bypass/Script Mod

Follow-up:

Upon further experimenting in the context of my full pedalboard, I decided to re-connect C11 - I needed the extra brightness.

Also, working on MXR pedals is a major PITA. You can't do anything without removing the nuts from all the pots, jacks, and switches. MXR does just about everything differently from Boss, and integrating this pedal into my hardwired board was a PITA. Did I say PITA?

Anyway, it sounds good in the normal position, GREAT in the "Script" postion, and I'm exhausted because I was up past midnight fighting with it. What an ordeal in the quest for tone.

 

[ErikH]

Re: Phase 90 mods? True Bypass/Script Mod

LOL, Rich. Having troubles? LOL I hear ya though. You gotta be careful with the jack nuts or they'll crossthread the jack and then you're screwed. The orange P90 tends to suck tone as well so a true bypass box is a good idea. Or, do what I did and add a buffer at the output right before the jack. A trace needs to be cut but it makes a world of difference. After I did that though I ended up getting the EVH Phase 90 which I like MUCH better. I still haven't figured out what all that script switch on it does though. I know it does more than just remove R28.

 

[Rich_S]

Re: Phase 90 mods? True Bypass/Script Mod

And the box isn't connected to signal ground/DC common!?!?!! What's up with that!?!

 

[ErikH]

Re: Phase 90 mods? True Bypass/Script Mod

And the box isn't connected to signal ground/DC common!?!?!! What's up with that!?!

Doesn't always have to be. There's an in depth discussion about that somewhere on diystompboxes.com in the forum. It's been a while but I remember reading it.

 

[Rich_S]

Re: Phase 90 mods? True Bypass/Script Mod

It does if you're counting on the the fact that it's bolted to the aluminum pedalboard deck to complete the audio and power circuits. :smack::cussing:

 

[ErikH]

Re: Phase 90 mods? True Bypass/Script Mod

Well, then, yeah. It's probably a good idea...LOL.

 

[Rich_S]

Re: Phase 90 mods? True Bypass/Script Mod

Adding the green "common" wire was only the first time I unmounted and disassembled that ornery little mofo last night.

I shoulda bought a BYOC instead - they're much more soldering-iron friendly.:lmao: