Re: Practicing Soldering
I always use the lead-free stuff that says, "silver" because I breathe so much of it when I solder stuff. Can't help it. Smells good too.
The biggest help ever is paste-flux. Slather that stuff all over everything, and the molten metals just
flow. It took my soldering to the next level.
The other best thing I ever did was ditch the electric plug-in soldering things and got a butane Weller Pyropen®. Imagine soldering in a car - not having to use a wall outlet is a godsend for roadside repairs. Even in guitar cavities, not having ANY extra wires makes it a cleaner operation. I always ended up burning either the wall-cord, or the iron's corded lead with those home versions anyway.
I've had the same Weller Pyropen for 12 years now, and have never done anything except fill it with Butane (first releasing built-up pressure). I'm still on the same tip that came with it, as well as the heat-gun tip it came with.
I'd say it's my number one tool, out of a large rollaway box.
It wouldn't hurt to get a Multi-Meter, DVOM, DMM, whatever they're called these days. One that beeps at continuity is a convenient function. "Auto Ranging" is good, but a "Bar Graph" is better, on digital multi-meters. The "Bar Graph" gives it an analog visual representation. I've had my same multi-meter for 17 years, and never had a problem. It was $25 at Harbor Freight (top highest model, on sale), and it's a Fluke copy (no longer available, but their newer ones seems pretty cool and have even more features, for audio, like tone generator (maybe?), Sound Pressure Level meter (dB levels), Luminosity, temperature, etc. I'm talking about
this one. (I upgraded my probes to a set of sharps and a set of beefy clips that a Fluke branded, because the wires feel better and are more flexible and soft)
They go together, like an electric guitar and an amp. You'll want some probe action when you're changing out the electricals in a guitar. Heat shrink tubing is also nice, but not needed when doing a guitar correctly and soldering directly to pots. With HST, you'll find a heat gun (or heat-gun-attachment on the Weller PyroPen®) more useful than a lighter, as lighters tend to charr your work and look rustic.
Get flux though. It'll make your connections stick like poop on a shingle. It begins to bubble and boil, sizzling like quiet bacon on a stove. Then you know it's ready to flow. It soaks up the solder like a thirsty fish. It'll sizzle and pop into your eyes and burn your eyeballs, so wear eye goggles and an LED headlamp (
Fenix HL-55 ROCKS, it's my #1) to illuminate your work area. Yes, your solder is flux-cored, but you'll need a flux capacitor for time-travel. :cool2: