Pretty close to Pelham Blue (yet another Tele Buld thread)
- Thread starter AniML
- Start date
ImmortalSix
John Mayer's Mankini
Re: Pretty close to Pelham Blue (yet another Tele Buld thread)
Nice, good to know!
I'm doing my build with DupliColor too
Nice, good to know!
I'm doing my build with DupliColor too
3'scompany
New member
Re: Pretty close to Pelham Blue (yet another Tele Buld thread)
Cool color!
Cool color!
TheLivingDead
Dawn Of The Shred
Re: Pretty close to Pelham Blue (yet another Tele Buld thread)
Looks great!
Looks great!
Gearjoneser
Gear Ho
Re: Pretty close to Pelham Blue (yet another Tele Buld thread)
I love that color/guard scheme. If there's one thing I've learned about rattle can jobs on the internet, it's to always buy 2 cans.
I love that color/guard scheme. If there's one thing I've learned about rattle can jobs on the internet, it's to always buy 2 cans.
AniML
New member
Re: Pretty close to Pelham Blue (yet another Tele Buld thread)
+1
I have another build I'm finishing at the same time using Graceys Inverness green nitro. It is $18 a can + $9 shipping on eBay. I just ordered my second. Lesson learned :banghead:
But having said that, duplicolor is available locally for $7.49. I will be color coating 1 guitar for > $50, the other for $15
+1
I have another build I'm finishing at the same time using Graceys Inverness green nitro. It is $18 a can + $9 shipping on eBay. I just ordered my second. Lesson learned :banghead:
But having said that, duplicolor is available locally for $7.49. I will be color coating 1 guitar for > $50, the other for $15
Myaccount876
Amira-Maker
Re: Pretty close to Pelham Blue (yet another Tele Buld thread)
I like
I like
FretFire
SingedFingerologist
Re: Pretty close to Pelham Blue (yet another Tele Buld thread)
Nice! I was about this close (you can't see how close together my finger and thumb are) to using a Pelham Blue mahogany body on my tele before deciding to use oiled black limba. I love the guard, too. Are you going with a maple or rosewood fretboard?
Nice! I was about this close (you can't see how close together my finger and thumb are) to using a Pelham Blue mahogany body on my tele before deciding to use oiled black limba. I love the guard, too. Are you going with a maple or rosewood fretboard?
AniML
New member
Re: Pretty close to Pelham Blue (yet another Tele Buld thread)
Thanks all.
I just applied the 6th coat of clear. It is starting to get a candy shell, but at the same time getting a little pebbly. Time to let it sit a few days and wet sand with ~800-1000g to level. Then apply another 2-4 coats (depending on how the sanding goes) to wrap up the clear
Maple - I just won a Squier CV neck on eBay
...more pics coming
Thanks all.
I just applied the 6th coat of clear. It is starting to get a candy shell, but at the same time getting a little pebbly. Time to let it sit a few days and wet sand with ~800-1000g to level. Then apply another 2-4 coats (depending on how the sanding goes) to wrap up the clear
Maple - I just won a Squier CV neck on eBay
...more pics coming
ItsaBass
New member
Re: Pretty close to Pelham Blue (yet another Tele Buld thread)
Looks great with the gloss. Definitely sanding time, though. I'd start with 1000 grit, give or take 200. Dry first to knock down the level of the orange peel, then wet to remove the previous sanding marks. If you are using lacquer, wet 1000 is fine to apply the next coat over, as subsequent coats will fill the fine scratches and level them into the new coat when the solvent hits them. For finishes that are not solvent based (i.e. finishes that don't harder via evaporating, but via chemical means), I'd use a finer grit than 1000 wet before moving to a new coat.
The first sanding is the toughest, because you've just built up several layers to give you some "meat" work with, adding imperfections on top of imperfections without sanding in between. But if you do a good job on that first sanding pass, the later ones will be much easier.
Looks great with the gloss. Definitely sanding time, though. I'd start with 1000 grit, give or take 200. Dry first to knock down the level of the orange peel, then wet to remove the previous sanding marks. If you are using lacquer, wet 1000 is fine to apply the next coat over, as subsequent coats will fill the fine scratches and level them into the new coat when the solvent hits them. For finishes that are not solvent based (i.e. finishes that don't harder via evaporating, but via chemical means), I'd use a finer grit than 1000 wet before moving to a new coat.
The first sanding is the toughest, because you've just built up several layers to give you some "meat" work with, adding imperfections on top of imperfections without sanding in between. But if you do a good job on that first sanding pass, the later ones will be much easier.
Last edited:
TheLivingDead
Dawn Of The Shred
Re: Pretty close to Pelham Blue (yet another Tele Buld thread)
NICE.
Full, if you ask me.
NICE.
Full, if you ask me.
Stratovarious
New member
Re: Pretty close to Pelham Blue (yet another Tele Buld thread)
Agree with Full .
That is gorgeous
Agree with Full .
That is gorgeous
