Im having a problem with the licensed Floyd rose on my Dean. I use the bar alot. After 1 hour of playing, the Nut that holds the bar in is totally loose. This happens every time, and after i play, i have to take the back plate off the guitar, and tighten the screw/nut. I tighten it.....and within 30-60 minutes of using the whammy bar , its loose again How can i fix this problem?? I cant have this problem when i play out, otherwise the guitar is usless to me. Should i take off the bridge, and tighten the nut as tight as it will go with an allen wrench? Or take it to a guitar vrepair man and let him deal with it?
Problem with licensed Floyd Rose
- Thread starter lynch201
- Start date
Travis H
New member
Re: Problem with licensed Floyd Rose
thats the same with mine and its a original floyd. heres some help in a thred i posted a little bit ago https://forum.seymourduncan.com/showthread.php?t=177151
thats the same with mine and its a original floyd. heres some help in a thred i posted a little bit ago https://forum.seymourduncan.com/showthread.php?t=177151
eschoendorff
New member
Re: Problem with licensed Floyd Rose
This.
Oh, and use the blue Loc-Tite, not the red (unless you NEVER want to take that piece off again!).
This.
Oh, and use the blue Loc-Tite, not the red (unless you NEVER want to take that piece off again!).
C-Martin
New member
Re: Problem with licensed Floyd Rose
red lok-tite should never be used on stuff like this.. its completely pointless as blue lok-tite will be plenty enough to hold threads in place. If the bar or the threads or collet would break and you used red lok-tite you'd be basically farked
as a side note, this hapened to me and i resolved the problem just by removing the floyd all together and tightening the crap out of that cap screw. Not sure how licensed are made but if its anything like OFRs then there should be a plastic washer along with a metal washer and both together should work well enough to hold things tight if you tighten the thing hard, just be carefull not to strip the bolt. You could also use a lock washer and that would also work if you dont want to go the lok-tite route.
red lok-tite should never be used on stuff like this.. its completely pointless as blue lok-tite will be plenty enough to hold threads in place. If the bar or the threads or collet would break and you used red lok-tite you'd be basically farked
as a side note, this hapened to me and i resolved the problem just by removing the floyd all together and tightening the crap out of that cap screw. Not sure how licensed are made but if its anything like OFRs then there should be a plastic washer along with a metal washer and both together should work well enough to hold things tight if you tighten the thing hard, just be carefull not to strip the bolt. You could also use a lock washer and that would also work if you dont want to go the lok-tite route.
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Zerberus
Baron Von Shred
Re: Problem with licensed Floyd Rose
Not really, because when replacing a collared FR arm it´s stanradr procedure to replace the mounting collet as well. This is the only way to guarantee proper fit (and the reason they only come as a matched set from Schaller, beware of any merchants parting out Schaller arm /collet sets and selling individually).
A drop of light threadlocker on the cap screw before installing (which Schaller has always recommended BTW), and so far in 15 years I`ve never, EVER had a collared Floyd bar loosen on me, much less the collet develop play relative to the baseplate. No plumbers tape, no voodoo, just doing things the way the manufacturer intended without deviation.
Ibanez Edge bars on the other hand with those "designed to wear out" plastic grommets that do wear out within 4 weeks and let the bar spin like a propeller untiil replaced are IMO the biggest whores of trem bars ever designed. The Jackson JT-6 used the same bars and I hate those, too. But thankfully OFR bars can be retrofitted onto just about anything
Not really, because when replacing a collared FR arm it´s stanradr procedure to replace the mounting collet as well. This is the only way to guarantee proper fit (and the reason they only come as a matched set from Schaller, beware of any merchants parting out Schaller arm /collet sets and selling individually).
A drop of light threadlocker on the cap screw before installing (which Schaller has always recommended BTW), and so far in 15 years I`ve never, EVER had a collared Floyd bar loosen on me, much less the collet develop play relative to the baseplate. No plumbers tape, no voodoo, just doing things the way the manufacturer intended without deviation.
Ibanez Edge bars on the other hand with those "designed to wear out" plastic grommets that do wear out within 4 weeks and let the bar spin like a propeller untiil replaced are IMO the biggest whores of trem bars ever designed. The Jackson JT-6 used the same bars and I hate those, too. But thankfully OFR bars can be retrofitted onto just about anything
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C-Martin
New member
Re: Problem with licensed Floyd Rose
are you saying using blue lok-tite isnt good enough? ive always figured red lok-tite is overkill for most applications where you actualy WANT to be able to dismantle it easely enough eventually.. im not saying its impossible to dis-assemble something with red lok-tite, im a machinist and i often do this at work when stuff arrives for repair and they put red lok-tite on key way keys or bearings and its a pain in the arse to clean.. and i wasnt saying your doomed if your collar breaks or something either, i only said if you lok the bolt with red lok-tite it might be hell to remove it afterwards so hence "your farked" if you are unable to do it.. tho this generaly hapens if you used way too much of it in the first place
just a drop or two of it directly on the threads of the cap screw
Not really, because when replacing a collared FR arm it´s stanradr procedure to replace the mounting collet as well. This is the only way to guarantee proper fit (and the reason they only come as a matched set from Schaller, beware of any merchants parting out Schaller arm /collet sets and selling individually).
A drop of light threadlocker on the cap screw before installing (which Schaller has always recommended BTW), and so far in 15 years I`ve never, EVER had a collared Floyd bar loosen on me, much less the collet develop play relative to the baseplate. No plumbers tape, no voodoo, just doing things the way the manufacturer intended without deviation.
Ibanez Edge bars on the other hand with those "designed to wear out" plastic grommets that do wear out within 4 weeks and let the bar spin like a propeller untiil replaced are IMO the biggest whores of trem bars ever designed. The Jackson JT-6 used the same bars and I hate those, too. But thankfully OFR bars can be retrofitted onto just about anything
are you saying using blue lok-tite isnt good enough? ive always figured red lok-tite is overkill for most applications where you actualy WANT to be able to dismantle it easely enough eventually.. im not saying its impossible to dis-assemble something with red lok-tite, im a machinist and i often do this at work when stuff arrives for repair and they put red lok-tite on key way keys or bearings and its a pain in the arse to clean.. and i wasnt saying your doomed if your collar breaks or something either, i only said if you lok the bolt with red lok-tite it might be hell to remove it afterwards so hence "your farked" if you are unable to do it.. tho this generaly hapens if you used way too much of it in the first place
just a drop or two of it directly on the threads of the cap screw
Zerberus
Baron Von Shred
Re: Problem with licensed Floyd Rose
No, not really what I´m saying, though I do use the red more or less universally.
What I´m saying is that the arm is designed to be replaced as a full assembly with collet, and there are multiple reasions for that. The most important being proper arm /collet fit.
And that semi-negates the collar-loktite-red stuff too strong issue, becasue what physical condition the collet is in after removal is kind of irrelevant as it´s going in the trash anyway
I think the key is moderation
Exactly like this is proper, whether you use Red, blue, or a dab of superglue
We´re applying threadlocking compound to the cap screw that holds the collet in place so it doesn´t loosen as fast and thereby develop play.
The arm is still attached and removed normally.
No, not really what I´m saying, though I do use the red more or less universally.
What I´m saying is that the arm is designed to be replaced as a full assembly with collet, and there are multiple reasions for that. The most important being proper arm /collet fit.
And that semi-negates the collar-loktite-red stuff too strong issue, becasue what physical condition the collet is in after removal is kind of irrelevant as it´s going in the trash anyway
I think the key is moderation
Exactly like this is proper, whether you use Red, blue, or a dab of superglue
Nobody`s gluing the bar on.
We´re applying threadlocking compound to the cap screw that holds the collet in place so it doesn´t loosen as fast and thereby develop play.
The arm is still attached and removed normally.
C-Martin
New member
Re: Problem with licensed Floyd Rose
ahh i see now what you meant, that makes perfect sense. Thanks for clarifying :friday:
No, not really what I´m saying, though I do use the red more or less universally.
What I´m saying is that the arm is designed to be replaced as a full assembly with collet, and there are multiple reasions for that. The most important being proper arm /collet fit.
And that semi-negates the collar-loktite-red stuff too strong issue, becasue what physical condition the collet is in after removal is kind of irrelevant as it´s going in the trash anyway
ahh i see now what you meant, that makes perfect sense. Thanks for clarifying :friday:
Re: Problem with licensed Floyd Rose
This problem has been fixed! Threadlocker worked like a charm,.......and i bought a new whammy bar with thicker threads. Now the bar screws in nice N snug. Thanks for the help. works perfect now. ~~~http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9FkbBPpK9I
This problem has been fixed! Threadlocker worked like a charm,.......and i bought a new whammy bar with thicker threads. Now the bar screws in nice N snug. Thanks for the help. works perfect now. ~~~http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9FkbBPpK9I
