Q's on C-5 with 500k pots vs 250K pots. also, a few extra q's

[Naps]

How much different will the C-5 sound in a guitar with 250K pots than one with 500K pots? I'm really loveing the sound of my Texas Specials in position 4, and I'm wondering how the C-5 would go in the bridge. Would it over power them? Would the 250k pots take out some of the brightness/Icepick?

Also, can anyone recomend a good way to cut out a pickguard? Boxcutter? I'm looking to cut the bridge SC into a Hum. I have a spare H-S-S pickguard I can use as a template (The reason is that I like the color).

One more thing, I should be able to unsolder the SC and solder the Hum in the same place, ground it and that should be all, right?

Thanks guys, I'm hopeing this will be a better solution than swapping magnets.

 

[Gearjoneser]

Re: Q's on C-5 with 500k pots vs 250K pots. also, a few extra q's

I have a C-5 mated with Fat 50's. IMO, the whole setup is better with 250K, since it keeps the C-5 warmer, and doesn't make the singles brighter. The C-5 will overpower them slightly. The more gain you use, the less you notice the jump. The cleaner it is, the more you notice the jump in volume. Not bad, tho. You'll essentially have a VH tone or SRV tone in the same guitar.

One thing to note....If you wire it up and there's a thin nasally honk in 2nd position, you'll need to go back in and change the wiring to...

Silver and Black to pot ground, green wire to hot terminal, red/white soldered together and taped down.

Normally, it's silver/green to pot ground, black to hot, and red/white soldered and taped.

 

[Artie]

Re: Q's on C-5 with 500k pots vs 250K pots. also, a few extra q's

I just switched my C5 guitar over to 500k pots about 30 minutes ago. I'm definitely changing it back. Its in a basswood Tele, and the 500's are too bright. The 250's were nice and smooth.

I can't answer on the pickguard question, but soldering in the humbucker should be fine. You just need to pay attention to the wire colors. Often, SC's use black for ground, and humbuckers use black for hot. (Green for ground.)

Just look over some of the wiring diagrams on this site, and you should be good to go. If you're still not sure, we can help.

 

[Naps]

Re: Q's on C-5 with 500k pots vs 250K pots. also, a few extra q's

OK, just made the swap and the 250K pots are the way to go. distortion sounds alot tighter and just plain better. :thanks: :headbang: :wow:




:scratchch now if I can just get rid of that humming/noise :34: :dunno:

 

[papersoul]

Re: Q's on C-5 with 500k pots vs 250K pots. also, a few extra q's

I tend to like 250k pots with most pickups. Volume only, I like the tone to be 500k.

 

[Naps]

Re: Q's on C-5 with 500k pots vs 250K pots. also, a few extra q's

I tend to like 250k pots with most pickups. Volume only, I like the tone to be 500k.

How does this set up affect the pickups?

 

[Artie]

Re: Q's on C-5 with 500k pots vs 250K pots. also, a few extra q's

I tend to like 250k pots with most pickups. Volume only, I like the tone to be 500k.

I tend to agree with that. If you turn a 500k tone control down to "5", its exactly the same as a 250k at "10".

 

[Archer_of_Fish]

Re: Q's on C-5 with 500k pots vs 250K pots. also, a few extra q's

I tend to agree with that. If you turn a 500k tone control down to "5", its exactly the same as a 250k at "10".

is that true? I was on the impression that most pots arent equal across the entire sweep

 

[Artie]

Re: Q's on C-5 with 500k pots vs 250K pots. also, a few extra q's

is that true? I was on the impression that most pots arent equal across the entire sweep

Yup . . . you caught me on a little mistake that I continue to make. :smack:

The more correct statement is: A 500k pot can be turned down to a point that equates to a 250k pot. That point may or may not be near the center depending on whether or not either, or both, pots are linear.

The science is good . . . my verbiage . . . not so much. :yell:

And one more little thing. A 500k can be turned down to 250k, but a 250k can't be turned "up" to 500k.

 

[papersoul]

Re: Q's on C-5 with 500k pots vs 250K pots. also, a few extra q's

Yup . . . you caught me on a little mistake that I continue to make. :smack:

The more correct statement is: A 500k pot can be turned down to a point that equates to a 250k pot. That point may or may not be near the center depending on whether or not either, or both, pots are linear.

The science is good . . . my verbiage . . . not so much. :yell:

And one more little thing. A 500k can be turned down to 250k, but a 250k can't be turned "up" to 500k.

I have actually heard that that is not true due to the resistance provided by each pot.

The other thing is that there was a guy on the board who did a sound sample using a JB and 250k pot, then a 500k pot and it was so hard to hear the difference.

From Artie...
"I tend to agree with that. If you turn a 500k tone control down to "5", its exactly the same as a 250k at "10"."

- Is this the same Artie when using Volume pots??? I say this because I personally find 500k volume pots to make things brighter no matter what you do......but there is always the tone knob.

 

[fishgiven]

Re: Q's on C-5 with 500k pots vs 250K pots. also, a few extra q's

"can anyone recomend a good way to cut out a pickguard"

Dremel tools with a roller bearing bit, a good guide and alot of patience!

If you are kind to your Hygeinist you can go home with a bunch of dental bits as well! Then you'll need even more patience. I have taken to laminating exotic wood veneers to some Stewmac material and redoing my Ovation solids.

 

[Robert S.]

Re: Q's on C-5 with 500k pots vs 250K pots. also, a few extra q's

Opening up a pickguard isn't too hard if you have the right tools. What I do is to use a humbucker mounting ring as a template but an SSH pickguard can be used as well. Tape the two gaurds together and use a small drill bit to locate the new mounting screw holes. Drill right through the mounting holes in the SSH guard so that the pickup will locate properly.

Next I drill eight holes, two per side of the opening that the pickup will sit in. These holes will define the area of material that you will be removing. Remove the SSH guard from the SSS guard. I use tape to mask off the outer edge of the area to be removed and the eight holes (two per side) locate the outer edges of the new opening. You could also use a sharp obect to scribe the new opening before you seperate the guards but I like the tape method because it gives me a definate surface and edge to work to.

If you have a router and know how to use it, opening up the guard will now be easy. I don't have a router so this is what I do. I use a Dremel tool to drill holes all along the perimeter of the opening and then I use a cutting wheel and cut along the holes to rough out the opening. After that I use grinding bits to clean up the edges and add the radius to the corners.

I find the C-5 too dark with 250k pots but some folks love humbuckers with the lower value. You'll have to experiment to see what works best for you.

 

[papersoul]

Re: Q's on C-5 with 500k pots vs 250K pots. also, a few extra q's

I tend to agree with that. If you turn a 500k tone control down to "5", its exactly the same as a 250k at "10".

Actually that would be different since the 300k pots and 500k pot work in different frequencies.

 

[papersoul]

Re: Q's on C-5 with 500k pots vs 250K pots. also, a few extra q's

I also had found that the C-5 and just about all pickups worked better in my LP Standard with 300k volume pots...mostly for the bridge volume.

I find the guitar itself plays a large part uin this! My LP has a lot of upper mids and 300k pots tame the beast. My LP had stocl 300k volumes and 500k tones but I'd be tempted to try 300k tones as well! I also found I can keep the stock pots and caps since I rarely if ever role down the tone or volume pots...the stock stuff is quiet anyway.

So, you guys liking the C-5 with 300ks - is that for the volume or the tone or both?

Thanks!