Question for luthiers here before I start my build!

D

devilfish

New member
Hey.

Gonna start my 56 les paul junior buiild soon. But I have a fewquestions before I start.

I haven't been able to obtain one set of detailed plans for this model. I have used a body trace for the shape, I'll be using routing templates for the pickup and control cavities. And I'll make my own neck profile based on what I like about my gibson style SG I have.

My question is. How do I accurately work out the bridge positioning?

As far as I'm aware the bridge distance can be worked out from the scale length? but I've read the actual scale length of les paul models is slightly different than the published 24 3/4" due to the compemnsated saddle?

How do I work out the distance of the bridge and also the angle the bridge should be set at to intonate accurately?

I plan on drawing up my plans full size once I know how to work out the bridge position. Thanks
 
Re: Question for luthiers here before I start my build!

You can't base any bridge positioning off of generic plans or specs for a certain scale length, as different people and companies use different definitions of the term, and actual scale lengths will vary. Base your bridge position off measurements of your own fretboard.

If you want accurate intonation with a standard TOM, measure from the nut to the 12th fret, then your bridge that same distance from the 12th fret + compensation. A high E may average needing around .030"-.060" added for compensation, and a low E from .180"-.220". Set it to accommodate these measurement with the high E saddle adjusted at about midpoint to slightly forward, and the low E set close to the back, and you should be fine.
 
Re: Question for luthiers here before I start my build!

I would use an existing guitar that is properly intonated as a model.

Math and paper will lead to doom.
 
Re: Question for luthiers here before I start my build!

With a TOM bridge, I like to string them up using the tail piece, and then move the bridge until the intonation is correct, then mark where to drill the post.

If you look at old Gibson pics, you will see that the bride is never in the same exact place.
 
Re: Question for luthiers here before I start my build!

You measure the bridge position from the fretboard on the guitar.
 
Re: Question for luthiers here before I start my build!

David Collins said:
You can't base any bridge positioning off of generic plans or specs for a certain scale length, as different people and companies use different definitions of the term, and actual scale lengths will vary. Base your bridge position off measurements of your own fretboard.

If you want accurate intonation with a standard TOM, measure from the nut to the 12th fret, then your bridge that same distance from the 12th fret + compensation. A high E may average needing around .030"-.060" added for compensation, and a low E from .180"-.220". Set it to accommodate these measurement with the high E saddle adjusted at about midpoint to slightly forward, and the low E set close to the back, and you should be fine.
Click to expand...

ABSOLUTELY correct!!!

Even if you use the blueprints, you need to calculate the layout based on scale length plus compensation... I would also incline the bridge by adding an 1/8" on the bass side of the bridge...

When you layout these holes, you may find it easiest to lay masking tape across the general area and use a sharp pencil to mark the lines EXACTLY where they need to go... Then measure them... Then measure them again...

THEN use a sharp awl to first press an indention on the marks... Then measure those marks... If they're dead on, use the same awl and a fretting hammer (or light hammer) to tap the awl a little deeper... Then use a 1/16" drill bit running backwards at first just slightly into the top... Measure again, flag the bit with a stip of tap to the desired dept then run the 1/16" to it's depth... THEN use a bit half the final size... THEN use a bit the appropriate size...

I know this seems like alot to do, but it really isn't at all... And it's so much better to be safe than sorry...

Hope it helps,
Allen
 
Re: Question for luthiers here before I start my build!

uOpt said:
I would use an existing guitar that is properly intonated as a model.

Math and paper will lead to doom.
Click to expand...

We call that a Chinese Schematic.

No offense intended to those of Chinese heritage.
 
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