Re: Question regarding switching magnets on a P-90
True, not a fan of ceramics in P-90's, I replaced all of the ones in my Duncan SP90-2's and SP90-3's with alnicos.
My disappointment in Phat Cats lead me to try a variety of alnicos in them, and being a nonconformist, I threw all caution to the wind and paired up different magnets together (never had heard of that being done, but I later found out a few brave souls have tried it in the past). PU makers are usually very conservative in their magnet selections, the vast majority being used are A5, A2, and ceramic. But as us humbucker fans known, there's a lot more to magnets than that.
The two magnets are opposing each other for a reason, that's where the tone & volume come from. Try flipping one to prove it to yourself. After you put it back like it originally was, you'll understand the importance of putting replacement magnets in with the right orientation. Swap only one at a time, or you'll loose track of orientation. Slide the old one out halfway and hold the new one next to it so the ends repel and sides attract. That's your orientation. Then slide the old one out all the way and put the new one in.
Off the top of my head:
Pairs I've tried and/or used in the bridge slot:
A8/A4 - Use it a lot
A8/A5 - A little brighter
RC A4/RC A4 - Warm
UOA5/UOA5 - Warm with lots of texture, better high end than A2's
UOA5/A2 - Warm, lower output
A2/A2 - Weak and thin
Pairs I've tried/used in the neck slot:
A5/A4 - A little more mids and less low end that twin A5's
A5/A3 - Chimey in an SG
A3/A3 - Bright, but softer high end that A5's, big mids, no A5 boominess
A5/A2 - Warm, but not as dark as twin A2's
I prefer RC's in the bridge for the smoother high end and slightly more complex sound Likewise, I prefer polished in the neck slot for the sharper high end and slightly better clarity.
Unoriented magnets: A2, A3, A4, and UOA5
Oriented Magnets: A5, A6, A8, A9 (actually probably all from A6 to A12)