Questions about building a cab for single 12" speaker

[greco]

I want to build a cab for a 12" speaker from 3/4" clear pine.

I'm looking for some answers to the following:

Are there a typical /optimal cab dimensions from the perspective of getting the best tone?
I'm considering 24" wide by 18" high by 10" deep

Are the finger joints at corners that essential? I know they are strong, but also tedious to make. I am thinking to glue long triangular shaped pieces (1" by 1" by 1 3/8" along the inside of each of of the corners....whatever these are called) to create the additional strength. What other joinery approaches are advised/typical ? (don't even think of mentioning dovetail joints)

Also, what is the best choice of material for mounting the speaker to? I am thinking of using 1/4" baltic birch plywood.

Any othe comments would be appreciated.

Thanks

Dave

 

[Scott_F]

Re: Questions about building a cab for single 12" speaker

I'll send you some plans for a 1x12 combo I use. It's about 24" wide, 12" deep and 19" high. But it's a combo. I like the volume dimension of it as it has a HUGE sound to it. With a single 12 cab, I'd probably shrink it down some height wise, but not much. So, your original dimensions seem to be pretty close to what I'm using now.

The two main choices for materials seem to be solid pine or baltic birch ply. You'll probably want to go thicker than 1/4 inch though. That sounds too flimsy to me. I'd go 3/4". In fact, that is exactly what I use on the cabs I have made as of late for my Brenna prototype and Stratman's Franklin.

I'll email you.

 

[greco]

Re: Questions about building a cab for single 12" speaker

Hi Scott:

I think that you might have read my post incorrectly.
The 1/4" baltic birch ply will only be used for the front panel to mount the speaker to....still to light/thin?
The remainder of the cab will all be made from 3/4" clear pine.

Also, I'm not goung to tolex the cab, and intend to finish it with oil.
It will get bumps and dings, etc. as I know that it is soft, but so be it.

Thanks for emailing me.

Dave

 

[Scott_F]

Re: Questions about building a cab for single 12" speaker

Just make sure you only fasten the baffle to the body on two of the four sides (floating baffle). I did misread your post. I use the 1/2 inch baffle. I like it to be kinda sturdy. Keep in mind, this is a heavy style cab. On the tweed stuff I order from Mojo, I really have no idea how thick their baffles are.

 

[greco]

Re: Questions about building a cab for single 12" speaker

In your opinion, would a thinner baffle material "interact" with the pine cab more than (or less than) the 1/2 inch baltic birch you use? Or, how does the baffle thickness influence tone.. if, in reality, to any significant extent?

Seems like the thickness of the baffle is the only thing "baffling" me at the moment....LOL

Thanks for the info re: floating baffle

Also, any comments on the not using finger joint construction? Any better choices than what i'm considering?

Thanks

Dave

 

[Scott_F]

Re: Questions about building a cab for single 12" speaker

Well, if you're not going to tolex it, then dovetailing or finger joining would be a great idea cosmetically. I'll have to go check the Aislinn I have sitting out there and see how thick the baffle is. I honestly can't remember. Some feel thinner is better. As long as it supports the weight of the speaker, you should be fine. The good news is that cutting a baffle is relatively cheap. So, try it at 1/4 and see how it does. Old tweeds were pretty thin iirc.

 

[jeremy]

Re: Questions about building a cab for single 12" speaker

the cab i built for my aislynn 6L6 i use clear pine for the box and 3/8" mdo for the baffle which actually measures 5/16". i also didnt cover my pine which i think helps give it as rich a tone as possible

assuming a floating baffle, the thinner the baffle board the more it seems to vibrate, so the baffle acts like a passive radiator giving a rich and complex tone. the trick is that you lose articulation if you use too much gain or volume and if the baffles too thin itll crack. i play mainly blues and rock plugged straight in so i dont use loads of gain and the amp is only about 25-30w so it isnt crazy loud.

if you play tight focused metal, this is not the cab design for you. if you play clean or kinda dirty without lightning fast licks then it might be just what you are looking for

 

[greco]

Re: Questions about building a cab for single 12" speaker

Thanks Scott and Jeremy:

Jeremy: What is "mdo" ...is it similar to "mdf" ?

Looks like a baffle of 1/4" or 5/16" to 3/8" should be good. I will use Baltic birch for the baffle, unless you think "mdo" is better.

I'm building this for a Champ clone (head) so it will have a max. of about 6 to 8 watts. A bit of dirt and no real fast licks, mainly blues and blues rock.

I could have gone to a 10" speaker, but I was given a 12". I prefer 12" anyways.

Any other comments, suggestions?

Dave

 

[greco]

Re: Questions about building a cab for single 12" speaker

Jermey, I googled MDO, no need for you to describe it to me now. Should have thought of doing that before I asked.

Dave

 

[Fresh_Start]

Re: Questions about building a cab for single 12" speaker

Those pieces of wood in the corners can be called "cleats".

Weber forums, including "enclosures" and "speakers"

bare bones cab building

The Fender Fieldguide includes cab dimensions for most of the classic combos from Leo. That ought to be a reasonable starting point...


Chip

 

[D-EJ915]

Re: Questions about building a cab for single 12" speaker

You generally want the baffle to be the strongest part of the cabinet because it encounters the most vibrations.

 

[Baltar]

Re: Questions about building a cab for single 12" speaker

I want to build a cab for a 12" speaker from 3/4" clear pine.

I'm looking for some answers to the following:

Are the finger joints at corners that essential? I know they are strong, but also tedious to make.

they're not essential.
another nice solution is to use flat dowels.
if you don't have the tools for that, ..
you can use a 20x20mm band to screw the walls
together from the inside. i also used brass brackets for a cab which needed
to be done veery fast - but i wouldn't recommend this for impermeability
reasons.

Also, what is the best choice of material for mounting the speaker to? I am thinking of using 1/4" baltic birch plywood.

my favourite is 22mm MDF for front baffle only. but ake care: you need to
paint it well, otherwise it will suck humidity and become bulky

cheers
martin

 

[greco]

Re: Questions about building a cab for single 12" speaker

Thanks for all the comments.

The suggestions for the baffle thickness are now ranging from 3/8 " (about 10 mm) to 22mm ( about 7/8 ")...quite a wide spread of opinion.

D-EJ915 ...The baffle needs to be strong enough to withstand vibration but I also want to obtain some "passive radiation" (read #7 above)

Baltar: Thanks for the woodworking ideas. Are flat dowels the same as "biscuits"?

Scott...I haven't received your email as yet ...thought it might be at work but no luck. I'll email you.

Fresh Start ......Thanks for the links...good reading

Dave

 

[D-EJ915]

Re: Questions about building a cab for single 12" speaker

I also want to obtain some "passive radiation" (read #7 above)

The baffle won't move enough to generate any sound on its own but it will colour the sound by affecting the speaker's vibration. A passive radiator increases the output, a vibrating baffle does not do that. I just wanted to clarify that so you aren't misunderstood. I was kind of worried about the thin wood splitting/chipping when you mounted the speaker and that,s one of the reasons I'd advise a thicker baffle, either that or drill holes too big and then use T-nuts or something.

 

[jeremy]

Re: Questions about building a cab for single 12" speaker

there is not really any volume difference but there sure is a tonal/response difference. a stiffer fixed baffle will make a faster tighter sounding cab than a thinner floating baffle like in old fender tweed amps.

you can go too thin but i have a jensen p10q and mojo bv30h in there and havent had a problem

 

[Baltar]

Re: Questions about building a cab for single 12" speaker

Baltar: Thanks for the woodworking ideas. Are flat dowels the same as "biscuits"?

i mean these ...

sorry, wasn't aware of the correct english word

my cabs (will post an own pic later) are built like that ...

... but screwed from the inside, instead of nailed from the outside

 

[drpietrzak]

Re: Questions about building a cab for single 12" speaker

The last cab I built was a 1x12 about the size you indcated.

http://drpietrzak.com//music/west1.jpg

It is 1/2" pine finished in white blonde. It is semi-open backed. It was built to match my white blonde tele. I use the basic dimentions of a Fender 1x12. I also have smaller cabs. It sounds very nice. I am running a Cannibis Rex in it right now and use it with a varity of heads.

 

[greco]

Re: Questions about building a cab for single 12" speaker

Just want to thank everyone for their help. All of the info is much appreciated

Dave