re-fret procedure

Re: re-fret procedure

if you have a real cheapo guitar do it on that.

i am kinda lucky that my first guitar was a Ibanez roadstar II that is quite cheap and i learned most of my stuff on that.

about the only thing that i havent done is a refret but i think i am gonna do that this summer on the Ibanez as well. take a shot at it. I think that it is worth to learn how to do this calculating costs and the workmanship here in Greece isnt that great anyway. plus i think working on guitars is great fun and a great hobby. the only thing i havent done that seems too tedious and boring is the nut ( as funny as that seems). Painting and the rest i can do and find them enjoyable.

Hey Zerb, the one thing i dont get is why do you need to level the fret board once you take off the old frets?? i dont get that. what will happen if you just keep it the way it is? Is it because it is assumed that after the frets have worn down so much that the fret board also will have wear?
 
Re: re-fret procedure

tone? said:
if you have a real cheapo guitar do it on that.

i am kinda lucky that my first guitar was a Ibanez roadstar II that is quite cheap and i learned most of my stuff on that.

about the only thing that i havent done is a refret but i think i am gonna do that this summer on the Ibanez as well. take a shot at it. I think that it is worth to learn how to do this calculating costs and the workmanship here in Greece isnt that great anyway. plus i think working on guitars is great fun and a great hobby. the only thing i havent done that seems too tedious and boring is the nut ( as funny as that seems). Painting and the rest i can do and find them enjoyable.

Hey Zerb, the one thing i dont get is why do you need to level the fret board once you take off the old frets?? i dont get that. what will happen if you just keep it the way it is? Is it because it is assumed that after the frets have worn down so much that the fret board also will have wear?
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If the fret board is not level, the frets will not be level after the new frets are installed (I am not saying that if you level the board you will not have to level the frets)! When you level the new frets you will have to take even more material off of them to get things level if there is no attention paid to the leveling of the board. Also most factory jobs do not level the board or tthe frets either. You want a better job than the factory did dont you? Why re-fret a board that is not 100% level? You want quality and attention to detail, not a half assed job correct?
 
Re: re-fret procedure

theodie said:
If the fret board is not level, the frets will not be level after the new frets are installed (I am not saying that if you level the board you will not have to level the frets)! When you level the new frets you will have to take even more material off of them to get things level if there is no attention paid to the leveling of the board. Also most factory jobs do not level the board or tthe frets either. You want a better job than the factory did dont you? Why re-fret a board that is not 100% level? You want quality and attention to detail, not a half assed job correct?
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+1... I´ve seen very few fretboards that didn´t need at least minor tweaking to be truly level with the correct amount of falloff on the tongue... not necessarily becasue of bad quality, but partially also because wood changes in 5 years more than you can sometimes account for ;)
 
Re: re-fret procedure

ok thanks guys but please explain a bit more to me.

so this is also true for Maple laquered necks as well as rosewood??
i just cant see how a Maple 'laquered neck' will mess up after so many years.
does it??

so if i understand correctly if you have a maple board you will need to take off the frets level the board and then re-laquer it after you put in the frets?



thanks for the help.
 
Re: re-fret procedure

Zerb,

Do you know if Jackson "certifies" techs or luthiers to do work so as to not void any warranties?

-Matt
 
Re: re-fret procedure

tone? said:
ok thanks guys but please explain a bit more to me.

so this is also true for Maple laquered necks as well as rosewood??
i just cant see how a Maple 'laquered neck' will mess up after so many years.
does it?? ...
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Unfortunately, the problems are often not "species related", but simple idiosyncracies of the guitar construction itself. A perfect example is a bolt on neck developing a rising tongue. Over time, I´d say about 75% of all traditional bolt ons and short tenon set necks WILL develop this issue over time, and this will require releveling of the board. This is a result of leverage on the joint, and is more or less unavoidable.

so if i understand correctly if you have a maple board you will need to take off the frets level the board and then re-laquer it after you put in the frets?

thanks for the help.
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Hence the 50€ upcharge, it´s mostly for relacquering the board ;)

JammerMatt said:
Zerb,

Do you know if Jackson "certifies" techs or luthiers to do work so as to not void any warranties?

-Matt
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Yes. Call FMIC Consumer Relations @ 480-596-7195 for more info on what exactly is considered warranty voiding work, and the location of a service center near you (MAN, does that sound like an answering machine or what?:laugh2: ). Frets are after all going to wear out, and it may well be that a fretjob will not affect the warranty because the frets, pots, Floyd and such may not be covered in the first place... Anything made of wood definitely is, though ;)
 
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Re: re-fret procedure

I guess Odie gets no credit in this thread! Everyone LOVES ZERB!:yell: :yell:





:laugh2: :laugh2:
 
Re: re-fret procedure

It´s because they know I won´t try to sell them "Mr. Manchowder´s Guitar Polish and Fretboard Conditioner" as part of the deal :laugh2::beerchug:
 
Re: re-fret procedure

Zerberus said:
It´s because they know I won´t try to sell them "Mr. Manchowder´s Guitar Polish and Fretboard Conditioner" as part of the deal :laugh2::beerchug:
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ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!:chairfall :chairfall :chairfall :chairfall :chairfall :chairfall :chairfall :chairfall :chairfall :chairfall :chairfall :chairfall :chairfall :chairfall
 
Re: re-fret procedure

Zerberus said:
Base Fee: 250€
Upcharge lacquered Maple: 50€
Upcharge Binding: 50€
Upcharge "wants to keep the nibs": 300€ (already includes standard Binding Upcharge)

These prices include a setup, polish and a new nut... many don´t include those but tack them on additionally... the famous "hidden upcharge" ;)
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What's the going exchange rate ;) The only thing keeping my Tele from being my #1 is the teeny tiny fret wire, which I've thought on more than one occasion about having it refretted with medium jumbos.

Zerb/Theodie... when you are levelling the fretboard, how much more work is it to make a radius a little flatter? Would that require a ton more work that would not be worth it on a neck that is easily replaceable?
 
Re: re-fret procedure

MikeS said:
What's the going exchange rate ;) The only thing keeping my Tele from being my #1 is the teeny tiny fret wire, which I've thought on more than one occasion about having it refretted with medium jumbos.

Zerb/Theodie... when you are levelling the fretboard, how much more work is it to make a radius a little flatter? Would that require a ton more work that would not be worth it on a neck that is easily replaceable?
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Not much more work at all to make a slight radius change (7.25-9.5 or a 9.5-12 for example) Maybe a small upcharge for it. Thats if I was doing it anyway.
 
Re: re-fret procedure

Thanks, theodie. One more question... in your professional opinion, is that sort of operation worthwhile on a Fender MIM neck? Would it be more cost effective to just buy a replacement neck with the proper specs?
 
Re: re-fret procedure

MikeS said:
Thanks, theodie. One more question... in your professional opinion, is that sort of operation worthwhile on a Fender MIM neck? Would it be more cost effective to just buy a replacement neck with the proper specs?
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Depends 100% whether you like the neck in question. If it feels great in your hands and doesn´t have dead spots or other issues, then there´s IMO no reason at all to replace it with something (potentially) less comfy ;)
 
Re: re-fret procedure

MikeS said:
Thanks, theodie. One more question... in your professional opinion, is that sort of operation worthwhile on a Fender MIM neck? Would it be more cost effective to just buy a replacement neck with the proper specs?
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The way I see it is a peice of wood in the shape of a neck is a peice of wood in a shape of a neck, it dosent matter what brand it is! I can take a Mighty mite neck and have it knock the socks off of any USA strat neck you have EVER played (with some work and if you like the profile) if that tells you anything!

If you buy a new neck that neck might not be a very good neck either????? If you get your neck re-fretted, re-radiused, and get those custom shop by hand details done to it I think you will be much happier! Whenever I have fooled with a Warmoth neck, I always order it without frets so I can make it really sweet and also at that point it is a peice of wood in the shape of a neck!

Granted you have to like the neck profile on the neck you have!
 
Re: re-fret procedure

I have a few problem frets on my Chandler neck right now, but the majority are in real good shape. Can I just have the 2 or 3 bad ones changed & keep the rest? Funds are pretty limited at this point.
 
Re: re-fret procedure

Jay 77 said:
I have a few problem frets on my Chandler neck right now, but the majority are in real good shape. Can I just have the 2 or 3 bad ones changed & keep the rest? Funds are pretty limited at this point.
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You could if thats infact the probelm! There may be more issues making the problem though! When a luthier gets the guitar on his bench he may find alot more wrong than your un-trained eye can find. After the new frets go in, it will still need to be leveled so, its still not going to be cheap!
 
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