Refinishing my Jazzmaster
- Thread starter FuseG4
- Start date
ItsaBass
New member
Re: Refinishing my Jazzmaster
Looks cool. I kinda like the textured paint on the body.
A few notes and tips (some of which I realize are too late).
You have already stated this, but I wanted to reiterate that acrylic lacquers are what Fender used for almost all metallic colors back in the '60's. Sherwood Green was an exception, and probably any custom metallics they used in the early to mid '50's. In addition to most of the metallics, Olympic White was also an acrylic lacquer. They'd use nitro clear over the acrylics, but most of the classic Fender metallics were acrylic for the color coats. Not that you're going for old-style materials accuracy, but it's good to know that those who are going for period-correct-ish materials need not look only at nitro products. There are a fair variety of over the counter acrylic lacquers out there, and they are perfectly compatible with nitro lacquer, so that broadens your color choices quite a bit.
Looks like you might have left the original sealer intact. If my eyes serve me correctly, wise call. It's a bear to strip, and there really isn't any reason to, as it's actually a really good base for a refin.
You can mask holes (such as your bridge posts) with kneaded eraser. You can mask other difficult to tape areas with brush-on liquid frisket.
There is an absolutely invaluable trick for getting clean masking lines (works with spray or brush). It really would have helped you out here. Firstly, get the right tape. Ideally, you want lacquer masking tape, which is light green. Secondly, here's the real bit-chin trick: When you have everything masked off, before you spray over the tape with the second color, first cover everything except the stripes, then do another coat or two of the first color, just spraying where the stripes will be. This seals the edges of the tape, to prevent the second color from sneaking under. And any paint that does get under the tape will match the first color, so will be far easier to clean up (if it needs it at all).
Good luck.
Looks cool. I kinda like the textured paint on the body.
A few notes and tips (some of which I realize are too late).
You have already stated this, but I wanted to reiterate that acrylic lacquers are what Fender used for almost all metallic colors back in the '60's. Sherwood Green was an exception, and probably any custom metallics they used in the early to mid '50's. In addition to most of the metallics, Olympic White was also an acrylic lacquer. They'd use nitro clear over the acrylics, but most of the classic Fender metallics were acrylic for the color coats. Not that you're going for old-style materials accuracy, but it's good to know that those who are going for period-correct-ish materials need not look only at nitro products. There are a fair variety of over the counter acrylic lacquers out there, and they are perfectly compatible with nitro lacquer, so that broadens your color choices quite a bit.
Looks like you might have left the original sealer intact. If my eyes serve me correctly, wise call. It's a bear to strip, and there really isn't any reason to, as it's actually a really good base for a refin.
You can mask holes (such as your bridge posts) with kneaded eraser. You can mask other difficult to tape areas with brush-on liquid frisket.
There is an absolutely invaluable trick for getting clean masking lines (works with spray or brush). It really would have helped you out here. Firstly, get the right tape. Ideally, you want lacquer masking tape, which is light green. Secondly, here's the real bit-chin trick: When you have everything masked off, before you spray over the tape with the second color, first cover everything except the stripes, then do another coat or two of the first color, just spraying where the stripes will be. This seals the edges of the tape, to prevent the second color from sneaking under. And any paint that does get under the tape will match the first color, so will be far easier to clean up (if it needs it at all).
Good luck.
Last edited:
FuseG4
Our Neighbor Totoro
Re: Refinishing my Jazzmaster
wow! Thanks that's good info. The tape I used was 3m scotch 233 plus which is light green though I realize there's probably more than one light green tape. It's supposedly for auto body paint including lacquer.
also yeah the original sealer was not gonna sand off without getting aggressive so I stopped when the blue paint was all off, I also didn't see a reason to remove it.
And yeah hopefully the bit of overspray/texture there will get leveled out when I clear coat and buff but since it's a metallic color I'm not gonna sand the blue paint but to the gloved touch it actually feels quite smooth. Hope it gets even smoother and wet looking with the clear!
wow! Thanks that's good info. The tape I used was 3m scotch 233 plus which is light green though I realize there's probably more than one light green tape. It's supposedly for auto body paint including lacquer.
also yeah the original sealer was not gonna sand off without getting aggressive so I stopped when the blue paint was all off, I also didn't see a reason to remove it.
And yeah hopefully the bit of overspray/texture there will get leveled out when I clear coat and buff but since it's a metallic color I'm not gonna sand the blue paint but to the gloved touch it actually feels quite smooth. Hope it gets even smoother and wet looking with the clear!
Last edited:
Silence Kid
New member
Re: Refinishing my Jazzmaster
Looks good so far; relieved to hear it's getting cleared & buffed lol
Looks good so far; relieved to hear it's getting cleared & buffed lol
astrozombie
KatyPerryologist
Re: Refinishing my Jazzmaster
But can you imagine if you would have painted this guitar heritage cherry sunburst and finished it in nitro
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But can you imagine if you would have painted this guitar heritage cherry sunburst and finished it in nitro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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