Removing Poly-type finish...

[B2D]

Hey guys. I've decided to make a pet project of giving my old Trusty MIM Fender Strat (a 1995) a makeover and improve the tone in the process.

What I want to do first is to refinish it. I'm not sure what the factory paint was made of, but it's very wear resistant and VERY thick.

Reranch.com recommends a type of paint stripper to take off polyurethane finishes, but I'm not even sure if this IS a polyurethane finish. I know it's sure as hell not nitro. :laugh2:

Is there a way to tell what this is? Should I just forget the chemicals, grab some varieties of sandpaper, and orbital sander, and go to town?

 

[Ayrton]

Re: Removing Poly-type finish...

Fender poly is the hardest crap to remove, period. If there is a tougher finish out there, I don't know about it.

I had to use several applications of aircraft grade paint stripper for Fender bodies. You can get stripper at any auto parts store. Just tell them you need the aircraft stuff.

 

[shaka]

Re: Removing Poly-type finish...

I don't know. Carvin Poly is actually pretty tough as well.

 

[MikeS]

Re: Removing Poly-type finish...

I've stripped an Ibanez poly from 1997 and an Aria Pro II poly finish from 1997. Both were Asian imports, and the finish was more of a plastic shell than a paint.

Forget regular paint strippers. The aircraft stuff is the only chemical that will put a dent in it, and even then it's quite toxic and can stain the wood. If you get the finish off and realize it's worth keeping transparent that could be a problem. On my stripping projects I've ended ditching the chemicals for a couple power sanders. Orbital to remove material, palm to finish it up, then spot sand by hand with a block and go straight in to grain filling, if applicable.

 

[B2D]

Re: Removing Poly-type finish...

I've stripped an Ibanez poly from 1997 and an Aria Pro II poly finish from 1997. Both were Asian imports, and the finish was more of a plastic shell than a paint.

Forget regular paint strippers. The aircraft stuff is the only chemical that will put a dent in it, and even then it's quite toxic and can stain the wood. If you get the finish off and realize it's worth keeping transparent that could be a problem. On my stripping projects I've ended ditching the chemicals for a couple power sanders. Orbital to remove material, palm to finish it up, then spot sand by hand with a block and go straight in to grain filling, if applicable.

The finish is currently Fiesta Red, and I'd like to change it to a darker red, like Dakota Red or maybe even a slightly transparent finish if possible. It's a poplar body, so it may be too ugly to put in a trans finish. Either way, I'd like to refinish it with something much thinner and not as heavy, something that will let the wood breathe.

 

[PoorMan]

Re: Removing Poly-type finish...

I refinned a MIM Strat before. I couldn't find a stripper that would put a dent in it. I used sandpaper and muscle. It's a big job but it was a huge improvement tonally.

 

[Ayrton]

Re: Removing Poly-type finish...

You want to paint over Fiesta red? :eyecrazy:

I say drop a pearl white guard on there and rock it. Fiesta Red is one of the best colors Fender ever offered.

Of course, you could always do this.

 

[J Moose]

Re: Removing Poly-type finish...

Reverse headstock & slant on the bridge pickup? Love it. One day I'll build myself a strat like that... yes I will.

B ~ As it's been said, that finish is way thick. Forget all ideas of a transparent color unless you want to put A LOT of work into it, and even then... the woodgrain might be fugly. Better to scuff down to the primer and blast it in a solid color, or simply buy a new body. If you go with it, start with 40 or 60 grit sandpaper. Anything smoother will clog instantly. Be prepared for lots of hand sanding as well... trem cavity and the edges.

I stripped one mid 90s plastic coated Fender body and it was enough that I don't want to ever do it again.

 

[Ayrton]

Re: Removing Poly-type finish...

That brings up a very good point. You WILL spend more to refinish that body than what it cost to just buy a new one.

 

[Hellion]

Re: Removing Poly-type finish...

Just get a random orbit sander and buff it off. Piece of cake. Prime the body before you repaint.

 

[crusty philtrum]

Re: Removing Poly-type finish...

Hi

I've stripped a couple of Poly finishes in recent times and I found the only way was to use a heat gun.

Underneath the Poly you *might* find some kind of sealer layer, but maybe not a soft type that can simply be sanded off, but possibly a much tougher resin type. The only good way i found to remove that was to use a good quality furniture scraper with a brand new blade. Still quite a big job, but I found it was the only way to get right down to the actual wood.

On my Tele, i removed just the Poly and left the resin-type sealer, and the guitar sounds so much better. I mean *SO* much better. On my old '69 Strat that i'm currently restoring, I scraped off the resin sealer as well and the body will simply get a few coats of Tru-Oil, so i hoping for an even greater improvement in tone.

But i think it is very likely that you will need to try a heat gun, and experiment a little with the heat setting and your workspeed to get the sweet spot where the finish comes away easily and cleanly.

 

[pzaxtl]

Re: Removing Poly-type finish...

Hi

I've stripped a couple of Poly finishes in recent times and I found the only way was to use a heat gun.

Underneath the Poly you *might* find some kind of sealer layer, but maybe not a soft type that can simply be sanded off, but possibly a much tougher resin type. The only good way i found to remove that was to use a good quality furniture scraper with a brand new blade. Still quite a big job, but I found it was the only way to get right down to the actual wood.

On my Tele, i removed just the Poly and left the resin-type sealer, and the guitar sounds so much better. I mean *SO* much better. On my old '69 Strat that i'm currently restoring, I scraped off the resin sealer as well and the body will simply get a few coats of Tru-Oil, so i hoping for an even greater improvement in tone.

But i think it is very likely that you will need to try a heat gun, and experiment a little with the heat setting and your workspeed to get the sweet spot where the finish comes away easily and cleanly.

+1 that's what I'd recommend, too. Way faster than stripper or sanding. Just keep the gun moving and scrape the finish off in sections as it bubbles up. If you let the gun sit too long in one spot you will scorch the wood. It's really not that difficult and much less work than other methods.

 

[scottish]

Re: Removing Poly-type finish...

heat gun is the best way to strip a fender finish. ive had success with stripper, but it is a pain in the butt, only worth doing as a last resort.

I would say heat gun > sander > stripper when it comes to a MIM fender finish

If you take it all the way down to the grain and it looks dirty and nasty, ive had some luck using acetone to soak the body. It helps lift solvents and crud thats stuck in the body and grain out. Once the acetone evaporates sand it again. Repeat this a few times and you will get it as clean as you can. If there is still stuff stuck in the grain then its not coming out.

 

[Ayrton]

Re: Removing Poly-type finish...

I tried a heat gun on a Fender body, and ended up having to glue the pieces back together. The heat loosened the glue to the point that the body split.

I had read that heat was the way to remove the finish, but that was it came out for me.

YMMV

 

[metlking]

Re: Removing Poly-type finish...

I used a marine stripper to remove a poly finish many years ago......It took some time and several coats. That was when I finally realized I have nowhere near the talent or patience to refinish a guitar body and make it look as good as a factory job........I'd recomend leaving it fiesta red (which rocks) or selling it and buying a Warmoth body in the color you desire!

 

[Rowan]

Re: Removing Poly-type finish...

You'll need a good hand held sander. I tried this with an Ibanez RG body and it took forever. Candy coated is a pretty good description.

 

[JacksonMIA]

Re: Removing Poly-type finish...

I've stripped four guitars thus far. Every single one I've used Citri-Strip. I originally got it because it's safe to use indoors (and your house will smell like oranges ) since I didn't have a place to do it outside. It takes about three or four coats, and it's pretty messy. I tried some other strippers on one guitar, but nothing quite cut through the paint like the Citri-Strip. They also advertise that it's safe for antique furniture, which is another thing that drew me to it the first time.

The first coat will seem like it didn't do anything, but keep at it. I'd recommend doing it in a fairly warm environment, too - not that it'll be freezing cold in your neck of the woods any time soon.

You should be able to find it at any big chain hardware store or any place like Walmart. Seems like it was about $4.50-5.00 last time I bought some.


EDIT: I almost forgot. If you click the link in my sig and go to "Matt's Frankenstrat" you can see some pictures of it.

 

[B2D]

Re: Removing Poly-type finish...

I refinned a MIM Strat before. I couldn't find a stripper that would put a dent in it. I used sandpaper and muscle. It's a big job but it was a huge improvement tonally.

The tonal improvement is what I'm going for. I tend to find that guitars with thinner and lighter finishes tend to sound better and resonate more.

You want to paint over Fiesta red? :eyecrazy:

I say drop a pearl white guard on there and rock it. Fiesta Red is one of the best colors Fender ever offered.

Well... it's not really a true Fiesta Red, just the Red that Fender had going on the MIM's at the time that kind of imitated that color. Real FR is brighter and has more depth in the color. I like darker, muted, colors more and I think Dakota Red will work well for me.

That brings up a very good point. You WILL spend more to refinish that body than what it cost to just buy a new one.

How so? The paint isn't THAT expensive, is it?

I tried a heat gun on a Fender body, and ended up having to glue the pieces back together. The heat loosened the glue to the point that the body split.

I had read that heat was the way to remove the finish, but that was it came out for me.

YMMV

YIKES!!! I'm not gonna risk it if that's the case.


I'm going with orbital sander in that case.

Thanks to everyone thus far for the help.

 

[Ayrton]

Re: Removing Poly-type finish...

How so? The paint isn't THAT expensive, is it?

Well if add up the cost of the stripper, paper, etc... Now add that to the cost of the paint, and you can see where it may not be cost effective.

You might want to look into getting a lightweight raw body from Warmoth, or USACG, and then sell off the old body.

 

[uOpt]

Re: Removing Poly-type finish...

There are two types of poly finish. I forgot the designations but one can be stripped, the other cannot. I guess you got the latter.

I would sand it down to acceptable thickness, leaving it around the corners and sides (so that the heavy sanding doesn't make your guitar look goofy from missing wood). Then sand it with 400 grit, use BIN's shellac white primer, re-sand with fine sandpaper. Then hammer a can of re-ranch nitro on it and go from there.