Replacing nut?

Psykel

New member
Hello, Duncanites!
I got a new job and first pay day is this friday (we get paid monthly here in Sweden, I think most of you americans get paid weekly or something?), and I've decided to spoil myself a bit by upgrading my beloved SG Special.
She'll get a Vibramate-mounted Bigsby B5, a roller bridge and probably a Tusq nut. So, my question is - For someone who's not much of a luthier (I'm only experienced in hardware and electronics upgrades), how hard is it to replace the nut? There's no binding and the paint is of the faded kind, so I guess that makes it a bit easier.
What do I need? Some kind of tool and glue, I suppose? Titebond? A clamp of some kind? Fire extinguisher?
Also, this seems like the one I should use: http://gmf.jetshop.se/tusq-gibson-sparad-p-3389-c-1139.aspx
True/false?
 
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Re: Replacing nut?

If you can get a digital caliper, measure the exact dimensions of the current nut to confirm the one you need.
Sharp knife (xacto) to score the finish around the nut so you're not tearing it off when you remove it.
You *should* be able to tap the nut out from one side using a small piece of wood and care.
If you're really concerned, tape over the finish around the nut.
Most nuts are held down with a little bit of wood/white glue. They don't really need to be clamped in tightly or glued heavily.
You might need to clean out glue residue from the nut slot. Be gentle and don't over sand/scrape.
If you're very careful you can use an appropriate chisel. Stewmac actually makes a file for this purpose, but you could easily fab up an acceptable replacement with a piece of wood, some sandpaper and contact cement/spray glue. You don't want to widen the nut slot or make it uneven/deeper.

Using a pre-cut nut means you are at the mercy of whatever string spacing it comes with but installation is simple.

Simply dab a bit of white glue, or wood glue at worse, and press the nut into the nut slot, keeping it centered.
If it's too wide you can file the ends down flush with the neck.

Good luck.
 
Re: Replacing nut?

Awesome, thanks for the info!
Yeah, I've been thinking about investing in a digital caliper, so I'll get one of those.
I'll give it a shot!
 
Re: Replacing nut?

Well, first of all, I think I'll just see how it handles without replacing the nut. I got some of that René Martinez guitar lube, might be enough to keep a stable tuning with the Bigsby on.
Heck, as it is, I can bend like a madman and the tuning doesn't budge.
 
Re: Replacing nut?

It's a fair amount of precise work, and requires a few specialized (and fairly expensive) tools to do it properly. I'd take it to a professional. Also, there is no benefit in going to Tusq nut over a stock nut. They're both just plastic. If you want an improvement that's actually worth doing, get Tusq XL, the "permanently lubricated" version.
 
Re: Replacing nut?

Ok, as a general response to your mods, you might want to hold off on the roller bridge and just get the SG looked at by a good tech or a luthier.
Or if you're handy, you can do your own nut/saddle tune up.
All it takes is some 800-1200 grit sand paper, wet-dry works, and some patience. Properly shaping both the nut and saddle slots will do wonders. In fact, I'd go so far as to say that you really don't need a roller bridge if this is done properly.
And yes, nut lube is always a good idea.

If you really want to replace the nut, I'd spring for a bone nut done by a pro.
 
Re: Replacing nut?

Ok, as a general response to your mods, you might want to hold off on the roller bridge and just get the SG looked at by a good tech or a luthier.

Well, the roller bridge was mostly because I want a Bigsby. Afaik, they're quite useful for that, but I might be wrong.
 
Re: Replacing nut?

Well, the roller bridge was mostly because I want a Bigsby. Afaik, they're quite useful for that, but I might be wrong.
Ok, there's no right or wrong here, per se, it's just that I've heard guys complain about "tone/sustain loss" using roller bridges and I can tell you from experience that you don't *need* one for a Bigsby equipped guitar if the nut and saddles are well treated/polished/lubed by a tech or luthier who knows their stuff.
My '50's Tribute Studio Goldtop with a Vibramate/Bigsby works perfectly fine with the standard saddle/bridge. That said, I use the Bigsby like a Bigsby, not a Floyd. :)

I just wanted you to be aware that you might not need to spend the money on the roller bridge up front.
If you are handy, doing a saddle/nut dress is a relatively easy procedure and might make the roller bridge unnecessary.
 
Re: Replacing nut?

Ok, there's no right or wrong here, per se, it's just that I've heard guys complain about "tone/sustain loss" using roller bridges and I can tell you from experience that you don't *need* one for a Bigsby equipped guitar if the nut and saddles are well treated/polished/lubed by a tech or luthier who knows their stuff.
My '50's Tribute Studio Goldtop with a Vibramate/Bigsby works perfectly fine with the standard saddle/bridge. That said, I use the Bigsby like a Bigsby, not a Floyd. :)

I just wanted you to be aware that you might not need to spend the money on the roller bridge up front.
If you are handy, doing a saddle/nut dress is a relatively easy procedure and might make the roller bridge unnecessary.

Well, I suppose just getting the Bigsby parts should be enough of a start. Bridge and nut can always be replaced later. Easier on the wallet too, so I can get some other stuff I need. :P
 
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