Nostalgic Distortion
New member
S/S/S Guard With a Duncan SS-3 Bridge & Texas Special's in Neck & Middle Slots
So I keep getting different answers to this question for some reason? Hopefully someone here can offer some clarification!!!
I'm wanting to build myself a secondary guard for my Stratocaster with true S.C's in it. Right now I've got a sorta Fat Strat guard in it made up of a TB-11 bridge & some Fralin Split Blades in the single slots which sounds flipping great! The Fralin's are very S.C.-ish & probably the closest thing to actual singles I've ever used as far as hum-canceling/noiseless S.C. seized pickups go but sometimes I find myself missing that true S.C. tone that only real Strat puppies can give you.
Here's the deal, the stock guard for my Stratocaster came with a Atomic Humbucker in the bridge & some Texas Special's in the 2 single slots. I was given a Texas Special bridge the other night which will allow me to build a guard with a full set of them if I so choose. The thing is I'd kinda prefer a bit more heat from the bridge than the Texas Special can give me if at all possible & I've got a SSL-3 bridge just kicking around...
I believe it can be done? That's about the only thing that I could get everyone I've asked to agree on? What I need to know is exactly how to place these pickups so the SSL-3 will be in the bridge with hum-cancellation & no phase issues in switch positions 2 & 4 like a typical modern Stratocaster guard?
The suggestions that I've been given so far range from "just wire it up" which I presume is flat out wrong to "swap the middle & neck pup's around in the guard & on the switch, then reverse the hot & ground leads on the SSL-3 to take care of the phase issue which will occur in switch position 2." I've also been told that just swapping the Texas Special's around in the neck & middle slots would be sufficient?
If anyone out there has used a Duncan bridge pup while keeping their Fenders in the neck and middle & can help me out with this or just has some kind of an intelligent answer for me it would be greatly appreciated!!! Unfortunately with this particular Stratocaster I've got to remove the neck to take off the guard or get at any of the wiring. Plus I literally just got it back after sending it out for a fret level & setup so I'm really hoping I can accomplish this without having to take it apart a half dozen times!!!
BTW, great job to The Music Tech's in Manchester NH!!! I highly recommend their work to anyone in the New England area. These guys can polish any turd into a beautiful, shining, diamond!!! My 2010 American Special Stratocaster is now playing better than it ever did before & my frets were in rough shape when I sent it out!!!!
THANKS!!!!
So I keep getting different answers to this question for some reason? Hopefully someone here can offer some clarification!!!
I'm wanting to build myself a secondary guard for my Stratocaster with true S.C's in it. Right now I've got a sorta Fat Strat guard in it made up of a TB-11 bridge & some Fralin Split Blades in the single slots which sounds flipping great! The Fralin's are very S.C.-ish & probably the closest thing to actual singles I've ever used as far as hum-canceling/noiseless S.C. seized pickups go but sometimes I find myself missing that true S.C. tone that only real Strat puppies can give you.
Here's the deal, the stock guard for my Stratocaster came with a Atomic Humbucker in the bridge & some Texas Special's in the 2 single slots. I was given a Texas Special bridge the other night which will allow me to build a guard with a full set of them if I so choose. The thing is I'd kinda prefer a bit more heat from the bridge than the Texas Special can give me if at all possible & I've got a SSL-3 bridge just kicking around...
I believe it can be done? That's about the only thing that I could get everyone I've asked to agree on? What I need to know is exactly how to place these pickups so the SSL-3 will be in the bridge with hum-cancellation & no phase issues in switch positions 2 & 4 like a typical modern Stratocaster guard?
The suggestions that I've been given so far range from "just wire it up" which I presume is flat out wrong to "swap the middle & neck pup's around in the guard & on the switch, then reverse the hot & ground leads on the SSL-3 to take care of the phase issue which will occur in switch position 2." I've also been told that just swapping the Texas Special's around in the neck & middle slots would be sufficient?
If anyone out there has used a Duncan bridge pup while keeping their Fenders in the neck and middle & can help me out with this or just has some kind of an intelligent answer for me it would be greatly appreciated!!! Unfortunately with this particular Stratocaster I've got to remove the neck to take off the guard or get at any of the wiring. Plus I literally just got it back after sending it out for a fret level & setup so I'm really hoping I can accomplish this without having to take it apart a half dozen times!!!
BTW, great job to The Music Tech's in Manchester NH!!! I highly recommend their work to anyone in the New England area. These guys can polish any turd into a beautiful, shining, diamond!!! My 2010 American Special Stratocaster is now playing better than it ever did before & my frets were in rough shape when I sent it out!!!!
THANKS!!!!